I overheard that there was a rescue operation for a climber who was doing the Little Bear - Blanca traverse last year, probably in early October. It seems that helicopter was involved and the injured had to spend a night on the ridge.
Any information about this rescue? I wonder how dangerous the traverse is? Haven't heard much about accidents, especially fatalities, associated with doing this traverse.
Little Bear - Blanca ridge rescue in October 2014 ?
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Re: Little Bear - Blanca ridge rescue in October 2014 ?
Haven't heard about that one. It's a pretty bad place to get hurt, as there's really no way to go onto the ridge, unless you literally do the ridge from either Blanca or Little Bear. There may be one or two reasonable bailout points, but nothing truly inspiring.
In terms of objective dangers, the worst is probably lightning, just like anywhere else steep, exposed and high. The climbing is fairly cruiser for the most part in comparison to other technical climbs, but the rock isn't especially solid - you can certainly pull out holds. If you do fall, it's going to be for a while.
The hardest part I found was a 20-30 foot downclimb that I had to focus on, but the cliff at least bottomed out on a scree field. If you do it, you want to be comfortable on that sort of terrain, as well as quick. Happy to have done it, without incident. I was just in trail runners, but I would have counted myself as at least an enthusiastic climber at that point last year, who could lead many, many grades higher than what the traverse offers, and comfortable mentally with soloing something like the Direct East Face of the First.
The traverse is a head game, for sure. Go into it with confidence, or don't go for it and rescue your food from Barney
In terms of objective dangers, the worst is probably lightning, just like anywhere else steep, exposed and high. The climbing is fairly cruiser for the most part in comparison to other technical climbs, but the rock isn't especially solid - you can certainly pull out holds. If you do fall, it's going to be for a while.
The hardest part I found was a 20-30 foot downclimb that I had to focus on, but the cliff at least bottomed out on a scree field. If you do it, you want to be comfortable on that sort of terrain, as well as quick. Happy to have done it, without incident. I was just in trail runners, but I would have counted myself as at least an enthusiastic climber at that point last year, who could lead many, many grades higher than what the traverse offers, and comfortable mentally with soloing something like the Direct East Face of the First.
The traverse is a head game, for sure. Go into it with confidence, or don't go for it and rescue your food from Barney

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Re: Little Bear - Blanca ridge rescue in October 2014 ?
I climbed the traverse last year in early october, and i don't remember any reports of rescues.
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Re: Little Bear - Blanca ridge rescue in October 2014 ?
Where did you hear this? What was your source? In all my years, I've never heard of a rescue from that ridge. Doesn't mean it didn't happen of course, but a rescue from that traverse would garner some wide attention.
The only thing serious enough to warrant a helicopter rescue from that ridge would be a lightning strike (I would think). Maybe diabetic shock?
The only thing serious enough to warrant a helicopter rescue from that ridge would be a lightning strike (I would think). Maybe diabetic shock?