Comparing Blanca and Lindsey

[whoopi_cat]

Hello All,

I'm interested in a comparison of these two Sangre peaks in anticipation of a summit attempt of Lindsey just after the fourth of July.

I've 28 discreet summits myself, including two on Blanca. Both (Blanca and Lindsey) are categorized as 2+ and Lindsey actually rates lower on the exposure scale. I notice in the climb photos, though, that nearly everyone wears a helmet on Lindsey. We'll buy helmets if we need to, and it's appearing that we might (we'll be attempting Challenger point on this same trip).

What do these facts add up to, though? Is it accurate to say that the moves on Lindsey are more technically difficult, but in a less-exposed context? Are there etiquette notes we should be aware of before climbing in the gully? We're VERY early risers, and we're likely to have more people ascending behind us than in front of us.

Thanks for any and all comments.

Whoopi Cat

[mountainmicah83]

Depends which route you are looking at on Lindsey. If you stay right, you are doing a couple hundred feet of class 4 headwall below the summit. Great intro to class 4. If not, you are either on the gulley to the left of that, (nasty slidey scree) or one more gulley over which is really a ski descent. I would recommend a helmet on this route! While the exposure may be lower, the potential for rockfall is greater on lindsey. Good luck.

[Timmy]

People either summit Lindsey up the main couloir or the ridge to the right of the couloir (as you climb). Within the former, there's a risk of loose rock falling and funneling into the down into the couloir. The ridge is more scrambling and exposure - all on loose rock. Hence the reason people wear their helmets.

If there's snow in the couloir, this is the preferred and safest way up IMO. Some people do rope up and carry ice-ax of course. You can also skirt on the side of the snow filled couloir safely. If the couloir is not filled with snow, the rock and dirt of loose and nasty.

Once atop the couloir you can scramble to the summit. There's still some loose rock danger here as well.

[whoopi_cat]

Thanks, I should have specified that I'm interested in the classic route on Lindsey. Cat 4 is very far above anything we've tried so far.

Whoopi Cat

[mountainmicah83]

Thanks, I should have specified that I'm interested in the classic route on Lindsey. Cat 4 is very far above anything we've tried so far.

Whoopi Cat

Just keep in mind that as Timmy said that with no snow which on July 4 will be mostly the case, you have to watch for rock tumbling down the couloir. You are looking at some steep second class on loose rock and I personally wouldn't do that without a helmet. If I remember right, that gulley is over 45 degrees.

[highpilgrim]

To add to what's already been said, the rock there on Lindsey is loose and dangerous, IMO more so than Blanca. The top of Blanca, where the climbing is the most difficult (but only marginally class 2+) the rock is solid on large boulders mostly. My memory tells me it was very solid. Lindsey not so much.

And as to helmets, if you're going to keep climbing the helmet is a good investment one way or the other. And would be useful on Lindsey. Even little rocks leave big black bruises when they're bouncing down a mountain. Even if you climb safe, you can't count on everyone around you (or their dogs) doing so. Keeping your grape intact is worth the hassle of wearing the helmet IMO.

Have fun.

[Scanner]

I would disagree about the rock on Lindsey's northwest ridge being loose. I recall it being very solid and stable, in fact. Bill's route page for the ridge also indicates that loose rock is only a problem if you venture too far off the ridge onto the north face. It was only the second 14er I ever climbed and I never felt worried about the exposure because the handholds were so plentiful. If you ever wanted an introduction to class 3 ridge climbing on a comparatively safe route (with one brief class 4 section that can actually be circumvented, see Bill's route page), that ridge is a good one to try. Even if you decide to bail on the ridge, the scenery in Huerfano Valley is worth it.

[highpilgrim]

I would disagree about the rock on Lindsey's northwest ridge being loose.

The OP mentioned climbing in the gulley specifically...standard route. Not the ridge. The comment is in response to the standard route which is loose and nasty. The ridge is much more stable, more exposed and fun. The class four section can be avoided with exposed class three moves.

[clemsonmtneer]

Although I haven't climbed Blanca and can't use it for comparison, I'll go ahead and second what others have been saying about Lindsey's north ridge route being the better option... last summer my group ascended the class-4 north ridge route (mostly class 3 with one class 4 section) and descended the class 2+ gully, and I have to say the nasty/loose gully on the way down was WAY sketchier than the solid rock on the ascent. Everyone is different I know, and some may disagree with this, but we climbed straight up the crack in the middle of the class 4 crux wall and I didn't think it was bad at all (natural stairsteps with good rock)... one part after climbing up the crack was a little tricky, but overall it really wasn't as scary as it looks below. If you're worried about the class 3/4 scrambling and exposure, it might help to try some class 3 scrambles beforehand if you're willing to increase your comfort level on these types of routes (I guess personally, I'm a lot more scared/sketched out by loose and steep rock than by exposed but solid rock)... the Sawtooth between Evans and Bierstadt would be a good class 3 intro, and a step further than that, Kelso Ridge on Torrey's. If you already have experience on class 3 routes such as these and are fine with a little bit of exposure, then you should be fine on Lindsey's north ridge. Just my 2 cents.

[mattpayne11]

I did both last summer and would say that Blanca is the safer mountain. While I did the class 4 route on Lindsey, I have read several bad stories about people getting hit by falling rocks on the standard route (hence my choice of the class 4 route).

[Scanner]

I would disagree about the rock on Lindsey's northwest ridge being loose.

The OP mentioned climbing in the gulley specifically...standard route. Not the ridge. The comment is in response to the standard route which is loose and nasty. The ridge is much more stable, more exposed and fun. The class four section can be avoided with exposed class three moves.

Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to this comment, not made by the OP:

The ridge is more scrambling and exposure - all on loose rock. Hence the reason people wear their helmets.

[mountainmicah83]

Just keep in mind that while the 3/4 class section may not be that bad, just as on any other mountain, if you get off route, you could quickly find yourself on 5th class terrain. Last year I stayed way to the right on that headwall section and I was into 5th class. Not bad for me because I like that kind of stuff but just make sure you are on route.