I’m sorry this happened to you Andrew. A few years ago on my first attempt I found some gear in Noname, after the cabin, and before the real route finding began. I was definitely the first person out there during the second week of June and can only think that something similar happened to them. I’m glad you’re safe and hopefully as a community we can learn from this and clear the gear out, as that’s such a special area-LNT is exceptionally important. I don’t blame you for the rap, that peak sucks to descend. I’m willing to go at it again solo, and pack out what I can as a hard push. Message me on IG and let me know what may be left out there, I won’t be on ropes but confident I can at least clean some stuff out before the first snow. All I ask is assistance with fuel from Denver to Beartown and back.
Alec
Lost Tent, Gear, and Rope on Jagged
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Been_Jammin
- Posts: 202
- Joined: 2/5/2019
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Re: Lost Tent, Gear, and Rope on Jagged
Bona fide epic! Glad you are ok... looking forward to the trip report.
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kempenjn
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 7/30/2019
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- 13ers: 38
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Re: Lost Tent, Gear, and Rope on Jagged
Glad you're safe and recovering, Andrew. I'm sure this wasn't an easy post to make, I hope you are able to recover your rope.
Looking forward to reading your trip report after you gather your thoughts. I am not trying to pile on you, just want to point out a few things for anyone considering rappelling off Jagged.
The summit bolts are Star Dryvins, likely 3/8" (although they were manufactured in 1/4" as well!) They are a plated steel nail that is pounded into a lead sleeve. The hanger is a vertical stamped SMC stainless hanger (good!). This puts the installation date of the bolts around the mid-late 80s (unless someone was holding onto a stash of nails for a few years). On normal climbing routes, those are high on the priority list for replacement. They have very unpredictable tensile strength but generally do OK with shear loading, which is their typical loading on Jagged when rappelling off the top. When we climbed Jagged a few years ago, one of those hangers was loose, so potentially one (or both) of those bolts could be pulled out with minimal effort.
All this to say: do not rappel off a single anchor bolt if at all possible.
Use both bolts to make an extended rappel anchor with cord or webbing to get your masterpoint over the edge. This will make it much easier to pull your rope. In the configuration you had, even a larger diameter pull line would require extreme effort to pull because the main line is pinching the tagline against the rock. Plan to rap twice. A shorter rap means less friction / rope stretch to overcome when you do pull your rope. Plus, you can bring a shorter rope + tagline, as recommended by Evan at Kling Mtn Guides (now San Juan Expeditions).
If you choose to use a retrievable system like this, be aware of the danger presented by knot migration, there was a fatality recently in Norway due to this.
I will also echo the point made by others: have a plan to be able to ascend your rope in case of emergency.
Looking forward to reading your trip report after you gather your thoughts. I am not trying to pile on you, just want to point out a few things for anyone considering rappelling off Jagged.
The summit bolts are Star Dryvins, likely 3/8" (although they were manufactured in 1/4" as well!) They are a plated steel nail that is pounded into a lead sleeve. The hanger is a vertical stamped SMC stainless hanger (good!). This puts the installation date of the bolts around the mid-late 80s (unless someone was holding onto a stash of nails for a few years). On normal climbing routes, those are high on the priority list for replacement. They have very unpredictable tensile strength but generally do OK with shear loading, which is their typical loading on Jagged when rappelling off the top. When we climbed Jagged a few years ago, one of those hangers was loose, so potentially one (or both) of those bolts could be pulled out with minimal effort.
All this to say: do not rappel off a single anchor bolt if at all possible.
Use both bolts to make an extended rappel anchor with cord or webbing to get your masterpoint over the edge. This will make it much easier to pull your rope. In the configuration you had, even a larger diameter pull line would require extreme effort to pull because the main line is pinching the tagline against the rock. Plan to rap twice. A shorter rap means less friction / rope stretch to overcome when you do pull your rope. Plus, you can bring a shorter rope + tagline, as recommended by Evan at Kling Mtn Guides (now San Juan Expeditions).
If you choose to use a retrievable system like this, be aware of the danger presented by knot migration, there was a fatality recently in Norway due to this.
I will also echo the point made by others: have a plan to be able to ascend your rope in case of emergency.
Re: Lost Tent, Gear, and Rope on Jagged
All excellent advice from kempe. Thanks for the insight on bolt ages and reputations.
Traveling light is the only way to fly.
IG: @colorado_invasive
Strava: Brent Herring
IG: @colorado_invasive
Strava: Brent Herring
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artemavovk
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 11/11/2018
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Lost Tent, Gear, and Rope on Jagged
I have your rope (the pink cord was cut in a few places and stuck somewhere way down, so I couldn't get it out) and I have a set of trekking poles from near the approach trail (around 13200ft, the handles are half eaten but probably replaceable), not sure if yours. I did not go through No Name basin so I don't have the rest of your stuff. DM me