Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
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Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
So I was climbing up the mountain from Yankee Boy last weekend, and I made the mistake of turning left up into the first gully and climbing to the summit from there. It was very steep and there were even sections of rock I had to climb where I wasn't sure if I could even get up! Some hand-holds took a while to find! I was also extremely surprised, because on the way up I thought I was on the right route, and couldn't believe how underprepared I was for the exposure and risks I was encountering. After getting to the top, I was able to follow footprints and descended the correct route. I also remember the surprise of witnessing absolutely no evidence of other climbers on the way up. I thought to myself, "Is it possible that I am the first one to climb Sneffels this year?"
Anyway, I made it out alive, but I was just wondering if anyone else has made the mistake of turning into the first gully rather than the second. What was your experience like? And also, what difficulty rating would you suppose that route should be rated? Thanks!
Anyway, I made it out alive, but I was just wondering if anyone else has made the mistake of turning into the first gully rather than the second. What was your experience like? And also, what difficulty rating would you suppose that route should be rated? Thanks!
- HikerGuy
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
Sounds like you climbed one of the South Face "Birthday Chutes". They are usually climbed with snow and/or skied. Class 3 to 4 when dry.
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
I’d be pretty hesitant (wouldn’t) climb something I was having trouble going up. It would be much harder to down climb and backtrack. Haven’t personally hiked that mountain so can’t comment on route.
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
I have to ask... Did you read the route description beforehand?
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- davisrice4
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
WOW! Scary. Did you have the 14ers.com app downloaded with the photos saved? I couldn't imagine going up the birthday chutes dry. Sketch! Glad you made it safe. 

- XterraRob
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
No one's perfect, we're all human, just have to identify any possible errors in judgment we might have made and try to mitigate them in the future. Also sometimes, things just don't happen the way we intend them to.
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
Years back I definitely was on the wrong route on sneffles. I don't recall exactly, but was way too far to the right, I think.
It was September, mid week, had just snowed around 8 inches, I didn't have a phone or route description, no other tracks to follow.
Kept pressing upward, telling my (scared) partner that once we got up we'd be able to take an easier route down. After (too much time) of sketchy, snowy scrambling, ended up bailing.
As with most mistakes, I learned some lessons that day.
It was September, mid week, had just snowed around 8 inches, I didn't have a phone or route description, no other tracks to follow.
Kept pressing upward, telling my (scared) partner that once we got up we'd be able to take an easier route down. After (too much time) of sketchy, snowy scrambling, ended up bailing.
As with most mistakes, I learned some lessons that day.
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
I f'ed up on Sneffels pretty badly in 04. My wife calls it the Mt. Not Snefflls incident. Turned out I was going up Gilpin. Its all part of life's rich tapestry.
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
I did the exact same thing yesterday. I am sure others have made this error too.
- Wentzl
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
The first time I climbed Sneffels I turned Right too soon and found myself on the summit of Kismit! Wow, what a shock to see the summit of Sneffels ahead, talk about a false summit moment.
Those gullies, birthday chutes, the direct to the crux on the SW Ridge and a couple in between, I have been there too. As for your question about how does the difficulty compare? They are all mellow 3rd class scrambles. The only difference is the amount of loose scree you have to fight.
Those gullies, birthday chutes, the direct to the crux on the SW Ridge and a couple in between, I have been there too. As for your question about how does the difficulty compare? They are all mellow 3rd class scrambles. The only difference is the amount of loose scree you have to fight.
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- BillMiddlebrook
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
Doing your homework before you head out will prevent mistakes like this. The route description on this site provides clear directions, with photos, to keep you on the standard route. Additionally, if you have a GPS or smartphone, you can follow the provided track line, which is helpful on more complicated routes.tbonetylerc wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2024 8:32 pm I did the exact same thing yesterday. I am sure others have made this error too.
Glad you made it out ok!
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- NovaDevi25
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Re: Went The Wrong Way On Sneffels!
Also on the app we can download the route description photos for real-time comparison on the mountain!BillMiddlebrook wrote: ↑Thu Aug 08, 2024 5:51 amDoing your homework before you head out will prevent mistakes like this. The route description on this site provides clear directions, with photos, to keep you on the standard route. Additionally, if you have a GPS or smartphone, you can follow the provided track line, which is helpful on more complicated routes.tbonetylerc wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2024 8:32 pm I did the exact same thing yesterday. I am sure others have made this error too.
Glad you made it out ok!
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“It is only when I return to life below that I feel the world’s weight in my shoulders.” - Anatoli Boukreev
"Why climb [Everest]? Because it is there." - Mallory