Mount Sneffels South Slopes

Take US 550 to Ouray. 1/4 mile south of town, turn west onto Country Road (CR) 361 (2WD, Dirt) toward Yankee Boy Basin and start measuring mileage from this point. Your mileage may vary slightly, but the following list describes the turns and milestones:

• 4.6 miles: Stay right on CR 26.
• 5.2 miles: The road is cut into the cliffs like a "C" so there is rock hanging over the road.
• 5.9 miles: Stay right on CR 26 at the junction for Imogene Pass.
• 6.7 miles: Stay right at the junction for Governor Basin. The remaining drive is 4WD and 2WD cars should park at or near this junction.7.5 miles: Reach the lower "trailhead" where there's an outhouse.

Driving beyond this point requires high-clearance 4WD

• 100 yards after the restroom parking area, pass a large rock and stay right at a junction.
• 8.0 miles: Stay right.
• 8.2 miles: There's a sign that recommends only 4WD, high-clearance, short-wheelbase. 4WD vehicles can continue another mile to the signed, upper trailhead at 12,460'.

Starting at the outhouse parking area , head west along the road -  1. After 100 yards, pass a large rock and stay to the right at a junction -  2. Follow the road for 0.75 mile to 11,700', where the road conditions worsen -  3. The remaining mile to the upper trailhead is very rough and should only be attempted by 4WD vehicles with high clearance and a short wheelbase. Continue to the signed, upper trailhead , located at 12,460' -  4.

From the upper trailhead, follow a well-defined trail heading northwest across talus -  5,  6. After approximately 0.25 mile and near 12,600', stay right at a trail junction -  7. Continue for a short distance, then ascend a series of switchbacks before the trail enters a broad, scree-covered slope -  8,  9. Here, the trail becomes less defined. Pick your line and climb, with the best route typically staying just to the left of the slope's center. This Class 2 section is loose and unpleasant -  10,  11. At the top of the slope, you'll reach "Lavender Col," a saddle situated at 13,560'. If you found it very difficult to get to this point, consider turning back, as the climb ahead becomes more difficult.

From the col , turn left, where you'll see a steep gully ascending northwest toward the summit -  12,  13. Begin climbing the gully -  14,  15. If there is snow, crampons and an ice axe are recommended. There is no established trail in the gully, so carefully pick your line as you ascend toward the top -  16. About 30 feet before the gully ends at an overlook, look to your left for a small "V" notch, which provides the easiest access to the summit -  18,  19. Scramble (Easy Class 3) through the notch. There is a bit of exposure to your left. Beyond the notch ( 20), the summit is very close. Finish by scrambling up easy, stable rock to reach the top -  21,  22. Enjoy the breathtaking views from the summit -  23,  24.

In 2016, some rocks at the base of the "V" notch were removed, causing the difficulty of climbing through the notch to be increased from Difficult Class 2 to "easy" Class 3. IMPORTANT: This route enters the Mt. Sneffels Wilderness area. Designated wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.