First, follow the
Castle Peak Northeast Ridge Route to summit Castle Peak. From the summit, Conundrum Peak is in view to the northwest -
1. Begin the traverse by descending northwest along Castle's northwest ridge -
2 and
3. As you descend, you'll encounter loose rock, so proceed carefully. Continue down as you pass several rock outcroppings along the way -
4. Approximately halfway down, the pitch eases a bit (
5) as you make your way toward the Castle-Conundrum saddle. Stay on the ridge crest, occasionally shifting to the left side (
6), until you reach the saddle at 13,790' -
7 and
8.
From the saddle
, the route up Conundrum's south ridge is fairly straightforward. Follow trail segments that weave through loose rock and small ledges as you climb toward the summit ridge -
9. After climbing a short distance, pass by a rock outcropping (
10) to arrive at a flat area -
11. Beyond this point, the terrain steepens slightly, though it remains within "Difficult Class 2" difficulty. Use trail sections and gaps in the rock for easier progress -
12. Continue climbing to reach the southern end of Conundrum's summit ridge -
13 and
14. Conundrum has two "summits," with the true summit located to the north. Walk along the ridge to a notch between the two summits -
15. Descend briefly and cross a flat section before ascending the final pitch (
16) to reach Conundrum's summit -
17 and
18.
For the descent, return to the Conundrum-Castle saddle -
19. Next, you'll decide how to descend into the upper basin. If the slope between the saddle and the small lake is snow-free, do NOT take this shortcut. Without snow, it becomes a dangerous, unstable descent. The safer option is to reclimb Castle Peak and descend via its standard Northeast Ridge Route. However, if the pitch is snow-covered and you choose to take this direct descent, use your ice axe and navigate carefully down the snowy slope -
20 and
21. Before reaching the small lake, stay left and traverse along the side of the basin to avoid approaching the lake too closely -
22 and
23. Continue heading northeast, exiting the upper basin -
24.