Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
Report Type |
Full |
Peak(s) |
Wetterhorn Peak - 14,021 feet
|
Date Posted |
08/02/2009 |
Modified |
02/21/2010 |
Date Climbed |
07/31/2009 |
Author |
dcbates80911 |
San Juan Day 1 - BOOM |
I know some people don't care for a lot of pictures, but there are just too many to leave out. The San Juan Range is amazing. Also, this report is broken into two sections for obvious reasons when you read.
Team: Eatinhardtack (Zach) and COMedic04 (Ryan)
Distance ~ 11 miles
Route: Matterhorn
This was Zach's and my first class three. It was fun. Zach did well. It took me a little longer to adapt.
Memorable quotes of the day:
"I wonder if those clouds mean the same thing as they did on Holy Cross?" ...Ryan - Starting out the day
"Ryan, you are about at the limits of my comfort level!!!" ...Dave - Ryan trying to find the route on the far East side.
"Don't worry, my butt is so puckered right now I am suction cupped to the rock!!!" ...Dave - Coming down the top 100 feet back to the notch.
"You know, I felt like I could die at any moment!" ...Zach - Talking to his dad about the lightning.
This was a right of passage for Zach and I. We are now in the Class 3 category. I was and still remain timid about the exposure, however; the class 3 part wasn't bad at all.
The day started at 5:00 as we packed up to leave the Matterhorn 4WD Trail Head. Zach and I trusted Ryan's leadership as he had all the experience. About 0.6 mile up the road, we came to a sign and junction. Ryan said we were to go to the left (really it was to the right). We followed Ryan. Not a good sign, dude.
Please don't get me wrong, this was actually a beautiful route, but added about 3.5 miles. The views in the valley were pretty spectacular with the rock bands and different water falls. We were able to follow a trail most of the way and Zach completed the first summit of the day.
Loop Route

Dave and Ryan
Photo by Zach
Photo by Zach
Photo by Zach
Our Target
Photo by Zach
Photo by Zach
Photo by Ryan




Sun briefly lights up a nearby peak

Zach's First Summit of the Day
Photo by Ryan

At the Valley's far end, we picked up a trail that took us above the rock bands. The views to the east were beautiful and the hills were soooooo green. During this time, it became pretty cloudy with rain forming to the west. We watched each storm and saw no lightning, never heard thunder, and they all skirted past us to the south.
Ryan heading up
Image by Zach
Zach and our Goal
Image by Zach





Ryan located the standard trail on the ridge, while Zach and I began to follow as a party of three joined our group. As we headed up, Ryan became the designated route finder. There were a couple times he had me on at the edge of my limit. One time was when he descended about a six-foot drop to a ledge with a 600-foot fall below. I followed one of the other guys on a less exposed route. We scrambled around until we reached the prow.
Uncompahgre and Ryan
Image by Zach
Matterhorn and Uncompahgre
Image by Ryan
Zach
Image by Ryan
The old guy in the group slowly makes his way up
Image by Ryan
Image by Ryan
Image by Zach
My thought....Ryan, I am working here...save your pictures
Image by Ryan
Image by Zach
Upon reaching the prow, we started to examine the notch. Here you enter the last 100+ foot scramble. All the pictures I have seen and even these make it look very intimidating, but they are very solid steps with good had holds. Regardless, I took my time and my heart did race. Weather did come in for a brief moment and dumped some wet snow.



Entering the last part
Image by Ryan
Good look at the last section Image by Ryan
Zach and Ryan

Making my way up
Image by Zach
We reached the summit around 9:15, about 4 hours after leaving. We spent about 30 minutes on top taking pictures and watching the weather. Ryan took a great one, but lets just say he is no Canyongoddess.
I made it
Image by Zach
Zach Rests
Image by Zach


Image by Zach
The three Amigos




Another area of weather development had formed to our North West and we felt it was time to get down. Our concern was the potential for wet rock. There was nothing else of concern at this point.
Descent was the hardest part for me as I slooooowly and methodically moved down the mountain. All was good, but as you descend you are looking dowwwwwn. Zach went first and Ryan waited around to help me. I must tell you, these are two great guys.
I start the descent
Image by Zach
Ryan watching me
mage by Zach

Exiting the notch
Image by Zach
Descending to safe ground about 12 feet below
Image by Zach

Storm starts to move in with some grauple
Image by Zach
Image by Zach
At this point, the pictures stop for a few. We had all reached the end of any scrambling and to the main trail. Ryan was in front of me when out of nowhere we heard an extended thunder burst. It started quietly with some crackling and ended with an enormous boom. We were at 13,400 feet. I thought Ryan was going to jump out of his pants has he started running. There really was no place to go.
Within five minutes, I heard buzzing on my trekking poles. I could not get my pack off fast enough and threw it quite a ways. Another crack was heard above us and I picked up my pack, took off the poles and was ready to leave them. Zach had the same idea, but we kept them in our hands. We descended the standard route very quickly. I was amazed at how a little adrenaline helped cure my tired and shaky legs.
We continued down until I heard a lot of screaming (and a few 4 letter words) from behind. I turned around and Zach was on the ground in pain. He had turned his ankle. I watched him as he got up and continued to move. Overall, there may have been 8 strikes, but at that altitude it was very scary. I had only experienced something similar one time before, but this experience was much worse.
The storm moved out and we stopped along the trail to take some pictures and our partner/paramedic (Ryan) looked at Zach. No long term damage and did fine after wrapping.
A rather POed Zach after turning his ankle

Uncompahgre
Image by Ryan
Looking up after the ankle assessment

We returned to the TH to three cold beers. These were necessary after this trip.
Image by Zach
Image by Zach
Day one was interesting to say the least. It was fun and we have some good stories. An awesome climb and I was glad to have completed my first class three. Not sure how many more I will do. Never had it in my mind to finish the 14ers, but you just never know. Of all the things that could be scary today, the lightning was the worst. I am glad we got to do it as this trip has been well over a year in the making. Moreover, I was glad to have spent it with these two guys.
Now on to Uncompahgre
|
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.