North Maroon Peak Trip Report 06/29/2009

Report Type	Mini
Peak(s)	North Maroon Peak - 14,022 feet
Date Posted	06/29/2009
Date Climbed	06/29/2009
Author	pkpzp228

Gnarly snow conditions on the summit ridge of North Maroon
I normally blog my TR's in more of a long form journal format but I figured this one was worth it if just for some perspective on my decisions. This was my first (attempted) ascent of N. Maroon setting out for high camp above crater lake at around 5:00pm an Sat. I was initially a little concerned with finding a good place to camp and the availability of water much higher than than the lake but was astounded by how ideal the area was just prior to the river crossing. North Maroon as the sun set from camp: From the rock glacier at sunrise: Rounding into the first gully: Looking down the second gully: Route finding was extremely challenging and by one way or another I missed the class 4 section from the route description altogether, though on my line there was ample opportunity for class 4 climbing: I worked my way up as far the final summit ridge and found a nasty cornice covering where the standard route traverses left then moves up below the summit. By now it was about 10:00am and the snow on the northern side of the ridge was already very wet (without freeze the night before), to continue I needed to either follow high on the cornice to get around to the standard route or traverse lower around to the right of it. One option was dramatically exposed and the other I felt had likely avalanche danger. A little disappointed, instincts said no and I turned back. The descent was arguably more difficult in terms of route finding, I descended further into the second gully than the standard route and decided to continue, carefully picking my line until I could traverse laterally around to meet the route at the base of the ascent of the first gully. All in all this was an exercise for me in terms of route finding. Views were spectacular and I'll return later to get the summit. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Gnarly snow conditions on the summit ridge of North Maroon

I normally blog my TR's in more of a long form journal format but I figured this one was worth it if just for some perspective on my decisions.

This was my first (attempted) ascent of N. Maroon setting out for high camp above crater lake at around 5:00pm an Sat. I was initially a little concerned with finding a good place to camp and the availability of water much higher than than the lake but was astounded by how ideal the area was just prior to the river crossing.

North Maroon as the sun set from camp:

From the rock glacier at sunrise:

Rounding into the first gully:

Looking down the second gully:

Route finding was extremely challenging and by one way or another I missed the class 4 section from the route description altogether, though on my line there was ample opportunity for class 4 climbing:

I worked my way up as far the final summit ridge and found a nasty cornice covering where the standard route traverses left then moves up below the summit.

By now it was about 10:00am and the snow on the northern side of the ridge was already very wet (without freeze the night before), to continue I needed to either follow high on the cornice to get around to the standard route or traverse lower around to the right of it. One option was dramatically exposed and the other I felt had likely avalanche danger. A little disappointed, instincts said no and I turned back. The descent was arguably more difficult in terms of route finding, I descended further into the second gully than the standard route and decided to continue, carefully picking my line until I could traverse laterally around to meet the route at the base of the ascent of the first gully.

All in all this was an exercise for me in terms of route finding. Views were spectacular and I'll return later to get the summit.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

pkpzp228	At the top of the second. 6/30/2009 4:23am There were small patches throughout the second gully mainly confined to the center up until near the top where it became pretty consistent. It made switch backing a little sketchy at times and near the top limited option for exit.
Presto	Wise move ... 11/30/2010 5:28pm Those conditions did look a bit dicey. By the way, in the 4 times we've done North Maroon, we never have used that 4th class chimney that's referenced ... bypassed it everytime. Nice photos. Better luck next time. Happy trails! :D
Alpine	Snow in the first or second gulley? 2/5/2011 12:22am Thanks for the report. Bummer on having to turn back - but sounds like a good decision. It appears that the first and second gulley are essentially free of snow/ice, is that correct?

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