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Peak(s)  Blanca Peak  -  14,350 feet
Ellingwood Point  -  14,057 feet
Date Posted  08/27/2008
Date Climbed   08/22/2008
Author  doumall
 Ormes Buttress: A Taste of Alpine Climbing   
Ormes Buttress
Alpine Rock, Grade III, 5.6
Descent of Ellingwood North Ridge
5 hours on the face, 14 hours car-to-car

Rack:
C4 Camalots .3-2
Hexes 6-9
Tricams pink to brown
Nuts 5-11
5 doubles, 3 singles, 5 quickdraws
54 meter rope

On the morning of August 23, 2008, Jordan White and I left the Huerfano trailhead on a beeline for the Ormes Buttress on Blanca's northeast face. It would be our second alpine route of the summer together and a step up in complexity from our Ellingwood Ledges outing. We followed the Lily Lake trail to a major west trending switchback around 11,600 where a bushwhack traverse across unstable talus and grass slopes led us to the base of the route.

Here is a pic showing the approach after leaving the path:

OrmesButtressApproach.jpg

The start of the route:

OrmesButtressStart.jpg

And our route up the face:

OrmesButtressLine.jpg

The blue is easier terrain which was either 3rd classed or simuclimbed. The red denotes more difficult sections. Yellow dots are belay stations.

A tail of a permanent snowfield guards the start of the route, which coincides with the lowest reaching rock of the North Face. We kicked firm steps into the neve and stepped onto rock.

OrmesButtress018.jpg

The first pitch was class 4:

OrmesButtress019.jpg

OrmesButtress020.jpg

After around 100 vertical feet, the climbing steepened into class 5 terrain. A wide ledge provided for a fine place to rack up and flake the rope. After examining the terrain above, I opted to use a crack system leading to a small roof for the first pitch. It was immediately apparent upon getting into the climbing that protection would be a problem. Tumbling moss, off width cracks and unstable granite were the norm. I thought to myself that I should have used the easier terrain to the right.

IMG_7992.jpg

IMG_7997.jpg

After 50 feet I found some reasonable pro on a tower to the left of the dihedral so headed that way.

IMG_8001.jpg

After climbing the tower for several 5.6 moves, it seemed to be teetering under my feet. I turned a corned back into the dihedral and traversed under the junky roof to where I could finally turn some solid moves up onto a ledge above. A nice belay anchor was found after Jordan simu-climbed with me for 20 feet.

OrmesButtress024.jpg

He cleaned the route quickly as only a few placements were possible in the rotten rock. Jordan finishing the first pitch:

OrmesButtress025.jpg

The next bit of climbing started out with better rock:

IMG_8020.jpg

We simul-climbed for several hundred feet until I ran out of draws. The climbing through here was class 4 and low class 5 with about 40 feet of fun 5.5 left leaning flake through a bulge. I clipped two separate repel bailing stations from previous parties which Jordan was able to clean. The bounty was 4 carabineers, several decent sewn slings and two large nuts. A solid anchor was found:

OrmesButtress033.jpg

The view of the Huerfano Valley provides a great backdrop on this climb:

OrmesButtress032.jpg

The next pitch was sustained low class 5 up to a bulge in the buttress. Alpine climbing conditions to the max!

OrmesButtress035.jpg

We once again simul-climbed until I found a good anchor below more interesting terrain. Jordan toward the end of this pitch:

OrmesButtress050.jpg

OrmesButtress053.jpg

OrmesButtress054.jpg

The next pitch was decision time. Head directly up the buttress or stay left and avoid the more difficult climbing using slabs, dihedrals and ledges. I opted to go left as the quality of the rock to this point didn't instill confidence in finding adequate pro on 5.7/5.8 terrain. Perhaps the buttress direct would have more solid rock, but I wasn't in the mood to test it. So I headed across a wet traverse.

IMG_8037.jpg

This was some serious 'nervous climbing' through here as every hold seemed to want to fall out of the wall. Footholds were often towers of sopping wet moss. I ended up run out 70 feet in this junk, an interesting test of focus. Finally a solid ledge was attained and some decent protection found. With a bit of simul-climbing we met our next belay stance:

OrmesButtress066.jpg

Continuing the left trending climbing, I found better rock on the next pitch.

OrmesButtress069.jpg

OrmesButtress070.jpg

OrmesButtress073.jpg

The protection was still sporadic. Despite the face having plenty of fractures and features, everything is so loose very few places are available for trustworthy placements. Throughout the climb I feel I averaged a piece every 50 feet. This is what it looks like when you finally find something worth sticking a cam in:

OrmesButtress068.jpg

OrmesButtress072.jpg

I employed some serious dirt and rock removal to set this anchor:

OrmesButtress076.jpg

The next pitch continued the trend of the last, class 4 gully scrambling with several class 5 steps:

OrmesButtress085.jpg

A wide ledge was found and the summit ridge in site. Jordan topping out on the final sustained climbing of the face:

OrmesButtress089.jpg

We could have jumped on the ridge at this point to finish in class 4 terrain, but why? A final 40 feet of easy class 5 was much more fun...

IMG_8039.jpg

...which ended on the crest of the buttress:

OrmesButtress095.jpg

The face took us 5 hours. Although the climbing is not difficult, finding protection and solid holds is tough and time consuming. The loose wet rock makes it a dangerous place. Several carpet bombs of rock fall were unleashed upon the route below us. Don't climb this route beneath another party and protect your belayer!

We plodded on up to the summit of Blanca:

OrmesButtress101.jpg

Weather was building to the east over Lindsey making our traverse over to Ellingwood a hasty one. Blanca from Ellingwood:

OrmesButtress109.jpg

Our decent route of choice was the north ridge, which if navigated correctly earns a 5.0-5.2 rating. No good description of this route exists and Roach's description of this route is flat out wrong. The upper section of the ridge is class 3. Not until the final drop onto the long notch filled saddle does the terrain go class 4/5. Down climbing rubble filled ledges on this section of ridge demanded carful moves.

IMG_8044.jpg

Looking back up at this terrain:

OrmesButtress114.jpg

OrmesButtress115.jpg

I intentionally kicked off large boulders which teetered in front of me to avoid a potential squash from above. Upon reaching the first gap in the saddle, we spied a ledge heading back to the right under the Ellingwood north face.

OrmesButtress113.jpg

A description of this descent on mountain project reads:

"Follow the north ridge from the summit of Ellingwood Peak to a gap in the ridge at 13,200 feet. From the gap, descend down to the right or east. Look for the path of least resistance. Eventually, cliffs will force you to go even further to the right or east to find a low angled traverse that leads back to the talus slopes beneath the cliff band along the bottom of the north face of Ellingwood Peak."

Unfortunately this is really confusing/bad beta. We dropped down off the ridge...

OrmesButtress116.jpg

...and followed the wide low angled traverse from the gap for several hundred vertical until cliffs forced us back to the left.

IMG_8047.jpg

After down climbing stiff class 4 terrain we were clearly above a vacancy. Our first rappel took us into a reasonably comfortable alcove. The second rappel was an interesting one. Jordan headed out first...

OrmesButtress122.jpg

...but upon meeting an overhanging drop with the rope ends dangling in mid air he jumared back up to me. Our situation looked precarious at this point. If we couldn't find another rappel station we would have to climb back up to the ridgeline, which would require at least one belayed pitch of rock climbing and then a long ridge run over several high 13ers in a lightning storm. It was worth another look.

I jumped on rappel and luckily upon peering diagonally out over the cliff face I saw a 10 inch ledge above potential protection yielding vertical cracks. It was a demanding rappel to lower diagonally down the vertical face without swinging out into space, but I managed to make it just as the knots hit my ATC. A quick nut placement and I got off the rope for Jordan's turn. He seemed somewhat shocked by the task at hand when he peered over the precipice but handled it quickly without question. Now I had to find more placements to ensure a safe and final rap. This involved tearing at the cliff face like an angry lion. I easily remove 100lbs of rock trying to find solid pro. A nut tool came in handy to scrape out dirt filled slots. Eventually I got three nuts into two different structural sections of the cliff, a look at this anchor:

OrmesButtress124.jpg

Jordan headed out.

OrmesButtress123.jpg

My turn:

OrmesButtress126.jpg

IMG_8052.jpg

We were finally on 4th class terrain again, and not a moment too soon as the rain began to fall. Another 100 feet of down climbing and we met terra firma. Looking back up at the difficulties on our descent:

OrmesButtress128.jpg

Our route down, the green box is the terrain which looks to possibly hold a low class 5 route:

OrmessButtressDescent.jpg

We spread out while heading to tree line to avoid a single strike double killer. I gazed back up at the terrain to the saddle and might have spotted a potential low 5th class route far to the climber's right of our ridiculousness (green box above). A jog back to the truck was in store to spare our loved ones any unneeded additional worry.

In my opinion, bad beta is never an excuse to make a mistake in the mountains, but it sure is annoying. You are ultimately responsible for your own decisions despite what someone suggests in a book or on the internet. Be prepared for an epic on this route, or better yet, just descend Blanca's south ridge to the Hamilton Peak saddle and then cross over to the Huerfano Valley.

Here is a link to Jordan's trip report:
http://www.elksandbeyond.com/86/



Comments or Questions
covfrrider
User
Breathtaking
8/27/2008 8:07pm
‘nuff said. Image


redneb
User
Props
8/28/2008 8:13am
No doubt son! On da real boo, dat was sho nuff the phattest route i done seen since Magellin sailed da straight. Off da chain fo sheezy! Werd?


scotthsu
User
thanks for the TR!
8/28/2008 1:57pm
this route has long been on my wishlist. the downclimb has always concerned me. great work!


DebbiesMOM
User
Scary
8/28/2008 3:33pm
As someone with Debbie while you made this climb I too was afraid when we didn‘t hear from you after dark. We were so happy to get your text and that all was ok! I admire you for your courage in all your trip reports. I can‘t even imagine or dream of doing something like this and never thought about trying anything like this when I was young! Just keep Debbie safe when she is on climbs with you!


hippitahoppita
User
Nice Eh!
8/28/2008 5:29pm
looks pretty hairy, glad you guy‘s made it. Have fun in the Teton‘s.


benners
User
Wow . . .
8/30/2008 5:36am
great climb on an awesome route, congrads guys!


doumall
User
Werd
9/1/2008 5:32pm
Thanks for the comments all.

Redneb, that is some silly writin Gee

Kiefer, sweet trip in the Weminuche man! Jealous...

Scotthsu, the descent sucks any way I think, but the south ridge to Hamilton seems to be the best. I was also thinking it would be sweet to go over the 13ers beyond Ellingwood and down to Lilly lake if you have the weather.

Kathy, glad you have enjoyed Colorado!


Knockneed Man
User
Nice...
9/9/2008 7:52pm
Nice work! Looks like a great route and a lot of fun. Dont take this the wrong way, but I would have used two seperate runners for that rap anchor. Your looking at some serious shock-loading if that right nut were to pull. Just a critique. Great report though and thanks for sharing.


doumall
User
Thanks,
9/9/2008 10:24pm
...you right, appreciate the advice. I was pretty confident in the right nut, as it was slotted deep in a close out crack, but one more runner is probably worth the insurance of not taking an unplanned trip through the air.


doumall
User
Hey Andy
9/30/2008 4:00pm
I thought about Gash. It sounded like it would require a few rappels and I didnt want to leave any gear on the mountain. Well, as you can see above, that didnt work out :roll: If I were to do it again, I would consider it. Let me know how it goes :wink:


Kiefer
User
Agreed!
10/22/2008 10:35am
Wow! From the stuff you‘ve put up this summer, Doumall, you should start setting your sights on the Alps and Dolomites!
You and Jordan make one hell of a team and routes like the one you just put up make that very apparent.
That rap back into Huerfano must have been precarious to say the least.
Nothing but quality here.
Congrats!!


jwproulx
User
Ellingwood descent
8/25/2009 3:41am
I climbed Ellingwood in 2007 via the terrain in the green box shown in the final picture, and it definitely went at 5.easy, though not particularly pleasant. Even farther right looked easier.

Our descent was via the line straight down involving four or five rappels and a little downclimbing; the last one was overhanging. I wasn‘t thrilled with the pro because of all the loose blocks.


doumall
User
Steve
2/17/2010 9:14pm
Thanks for the comment. It would be neat to get out with you someday, lets make it happen.


maverick_manley
User
what they said...
11/30/2010 5:28pm
Great job man... I miss this stuff. Congratulations on getting to your Summer's goals. Time for "above and beyond..."?


Andy
User
Nice!
11/30/2010 5:28pm
I'm just reading this now - great report on a great climb. On paper, it seems to me the "easiest" descent would be down Gash Ridge, but I've never read a trip report of from anyone who did this. Did you consider it? Why did you decide against it?

P.S. When are you going to let Jordan lead some pitches?


sgladbach
User
People are still reading this report!!
11/30/2010 5:28pm
I don't know how I missed it the first time around, but it was a great read. I once climbed Ellingwood out of the Zapata drainage and tried hard to spot the descent into Huerfano, but everything looked like I'd want a rope. Now I know that to definitely be the case!

You know, we've never managed to get out on a trip. Still hoping it'll come together some day.

Steve


jbchalk
User
Sweet route
2/5/2011 12:22am
Nice job, guys. You guys are gettin the alpine routes done this summer. Jordan, feels good to get back on rock, hugh buddy, after so much snow and Elbrus. Gonna give Sunlight Spire a try this weekend, so well see how that goes. Again, great pics and well done.



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