Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
Route:
-Bottom of South Colony Lakes Road to 11,000' with Snowmobile
-11,000' up Southeast Couloir of Humboldt to Summit
-Ski Descent of Southeast Flank/Gully
Stats (not including snowmobile):
-Elevation Climbed and Skied: 3,060'
-Mileage: 2.5 miles
The Crestone Group:
Northern Sangre De Cristo 14er Group from the East
The Plan:
The first Blizzard of 2006 allowed some big peaks to be skied early in the year which generally dont hold good snow for summit ski descents. My second objective after Bierstadt was Humboldt in the Sangre De Cristo Mountains. A good buddy of mine and I planned on getting both Humbolt and Lindsey on this trip, but another large upslope storm system put the Kibosh on Lindsey. We stayed the night before in a nice place in Westcliff. Although I dont remember the name, I highly suggest this B and B. Its on the main strip one block North of the 69 96 junction on the West side of the street. Good breakfast, nice rooms, very friendly people. After checking in, we headed to the local pub for some beers and pool.
Snowmobile to 11,000' on South Colony Road:
After eating breakfast at the B and B, we headed to the bottom of the South Colony Road and got the sleds warmed up. The day started with high cirrus and warm temps, the beginning of Blizzard 2006 number 2.
Preparing for the day
Chris Davenport and Nick DeVore skied this peak four days ealier and used sleds to get up to 11,000', so we knew this would be an easy sled in. Fritz was battling a hangover so after he puked up his breakfast we started skinning up the woods toward treeline on Humboldts Southeast Face.
Summit Ascent:
Davenports skin track was obviously made in radically different conditions as it was pretty much useless and at one point took us through some heinous willows. Significant settling and some melting had occured as no experienced ski mountaineer would choose this route in the condition we found it. Or,maybe he's just so strong it doesnt even matter to him, hmmmm
Views of Broken Hand Peak opened up to our west as we made treeline. Unforturnately, it was at this point we realized we waited a few days too long to get good conditions for a summit ski. The southeast gully came into view and showed snow pack only half the way to the summit. This view was also the most foreshortened mind "beep" I have ever seen on a climb. The gully extened all the way to the summit and is nearly 3000' of vertical, but it seemed like 1000' away. The map says thats the summit, naaa that cant be the summit, can it?
Looking up Humboldt's southeast gully from near treeline
I have since looked at the pics of Chris's climb and he had much, much more snow than we did. Fritz bonked around 13,100' due to beer head but offered to hang out and film me ski after I ran up and got the summit. The remaining 950' of climbing was over a snow and talus mix but provided for quick vertical. I snapped one of my poles in half in the progress. Great, one pole rock skiing was in my future. The summit appeared abruptly with the mighty Crestones behind. Quite a freaking view in summer, in winter its jaw dropping.
Summit of Humboldt with Crestones and Kit Behind
Ski Descent of Southeast Flank/Gully:
I was lucky, there was a snow drift on the summit which allowed me to get a summit ski descent. It was 30 feet from the summit cairn, but actually taller than the summit cairn, so I am calling it official. It only lasted about 50 feet before I had to billy goat to the remaining continuous snow.
Skiing off the Summit of Humboldt
When I say continuous snow, I mean I didnt have to take my skies off, but the skiing wasnt pretty or all that enjoyable in the upper half of the gully. Heres why:
After getting through the chocolate chips, Fritz and I both got some good turns down the remaining snowfilled gully, which was windboard styrophome. The snowpack was stable, but was quite slabby especially on skiers right of the gully. This section of the mountain will likely rip to the ground with the large load dropping on it right now. Here are some action pics.
Fritz gettin some despite being an old man
Me skiing just above treeline with one pole
The ski out through the rotten, cliff ridden, deadfall freakshow forest to the sleds was fun fun fun.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Well done. Me and a buddy are fishing for ideas for a winter climb we can do around New Years and this was very helpful. I think the views alone of Crestone Peak and Needle would be worth it in itself!!
It is a fun trip. That gully will slide big in the right conditions, sure you know that though, good luck.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
