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Peak(s)  Little Bear Peak  -  14,041 feet
Blanca Peak  -  14,350 feet
Date Posted  08/05/2006
Modified  08/06/2006
Date Climbed   08/04/2006
Author  diplomat
 Ltl bear/blanca traverse...r u kidding me   
Just a short brief...started at 5 friday morning and got into the car (finished) at around 9 pm. Mainly due to sh*tty weather and inexperience. Fog prevented seeing 30ft in any direction 90% of the time and the rain at the end added to the stress. Route up to Little Bear was fairly easy except for a few wet spots. Fog was so bad we actually went an hour in the wrong direction after summiting Little Bear thinking it was the traverse. Traverse was a serious mistake yesterday. There are so many f%cked up rocks on that traverse, its hard to gauge their integrity. For you rock climbers, you know what I mean what I say its scary when granite breaks on you, especially in the fog and rain on a ridge like that. Traverse took us about 3.75 hours, would've taken us longer if it wasn't for the storm rolling in, rushing us on (mistake on its own). Whoever said 'the traverse is not meant for first timers in mountaineering' was damn right. If you go off route you will experience definite 5.7 material. It is a very long mile. Don't do this route unless you are experienced with ropes and/or rock climbing or if you want to cease from being. After Blanca, it was just a long ass slug back to the car on Como road and don't even get me started on that piece of sh%t. Glad we did it but won't do it again and I won't recommend it to inexperienced climbers. If you are on Little Bear with bad weather rolling in and plans of traversing, swallow your pride, tuck your balls in, and go back down the way you came. VERY DANGEROUS Here are some pics;



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