Trip Report: Longs Peak via Keyhole Route [6/22/2026]
[14er 34/58]
[47th Total 14er Climb]

Started hiking at approximately 2:30 AM and reached the summit around 9:00 AM (last 2 miles took me 3 hours 🙈).

Current conditions are largely summer-like until the Keyhole. The trail from the Longs Peak Trailhead through the forest, past Chasm Lake Junction, and across the Boulderfield was essentially snow-free. No traction was needed below the Keyhole.

From the Keyhole to the base of the Trough, snow was present in a few locations but was generally avoidable by staying on rock. The Ledges and Narrows were mostly dry with only minor wet sections.

The primary obstacle on the route is currently the Trough.

As of 6/22/2026, the Trough remains filled with steep snow, hard ice, and sections of black ice. I carried microspikes and poles but ultimately chose not to climb directly up the snow because conditions were firm, and consequences for a slip would have been significant. Instead, I ascended on climber’s left using exposed Class 3 and low Class 4 rock. This terrain required careful route finding, comfort with exposure, and movement on / around some wet rocks. There were multiple sections where reversing moves was necessary to avoid getting on very sketchy terrain. I found it to be one of the more serious sections of terrain I have encountered on a Colorado 14er. If the left side of the climb up the trough was completely dry, it would have been clean; but there was some black ice and slippery rocks present throughout that I had to be very careful to avoid.

Above the Trough, conditions improved considerably. The Narrows were mostly dry. The Homestretch still contained some ice and wet sections, but nothing that felt especially problematic with careful foot placement. Most of the Homestretch was manageable on rock. Overall, from the bottom of the Trough to the Summit, I was on the fence about using spikes and poles or finding dry rocks; and ended up using a combination of both.

Descent was easier than the ascent, though the Trough still demanded extreme caution. Climbers descending the snow directly should be comfortable with snow travel and self-arrest techniques. Climbers choosing the rock option should be comfortable with exposed scrambling on / around somewhat wet rocks and route finding.

Current recommendation:

• Experienced climbers with snow travel skills: crampons and ice axe remain reasonable tools.
• Experienced scramblers comfortable on exposed rock: the snow can largely be bypassed by climbing rock on climber’s left in the Trough, but some ice remains present so be extra careful.
• Most hikers: I would strongly encourage evaluating the Trough carefully before committing. A significant percentage of accidents on Longs Peak involve slips and falls. As of 6/22/2026, the Trough contains steep snow, hard ice, black ice, wet rock, and slippery terrain. If you are not comfortable with exposure, route finding, snow travel, self-arrest techniques, or exposed Class 3/4 scrambling on somewhat wet terrain, it may be wise to wait for the Trough to melt out further. Microspikes and trekking poles may be sufficient for some experienced climbers depending on conditions and comfort level, but I would not consider them a substitute for proper snow travel skills or an ice axe when steep, firm snow is present.

Everyone’s comfort level and experience are different, but for hikers without solid snow climbing experience, crampon/axe experience, or confidence on exposed (and sometimes wet) Class 3/4 terrain, I would recommend waiting until the Trough melts out further.

Below the Keyhole, conditions are excellent. Above the Keyhole, the route remains a transitional early-summer climb requiring additional judgment and mountain experience. As always, this report is subjective and based on my experience. I opt towards safety on these mountains, as we all should, and I would highly suggest doing a significant amount of research, preparation, education, and training before attempting this route this time of year. Know your limits and be prepared to turn around if you are not comfortable continuing upwards. This was my first time up Longs via the Keyhole; I imagine it's a little less sketchy when it's completely dry, but also likely more crowded. I was blessed to have a very peaceful day filled with solitude. Please research, prepare, bring the proper equipment, have the proper experience, and be ready to turn around if you are not feeling it.

I see why so many people view this as their "favorite 14er." -- this mountain is something else. What dreams are made of. Happy trails. Please stay safe out there.