Huron Peak Trip Report 01/13/2026

Report Type	Mini
Peak(s)	Huron Peak - 14,006 feet
Date Posted	01/13/2026
Date Climbed	01/04/2026
Author	Near-miss

Huron N Ridge via Lulu Gulch
Huron N Ridge via Lulu Gulch. This route is pretty epic, but requires some pretty significant commitment. It will be a long day. We started around 7am and had already trenched the day prior up to 12k ft to gain vis on the condition of the route. The switchbacks are by far the safest option even in winter. The gully in the route description did not have enough snow coverage and was mostly scree. We opted for one that was closer to the switchbacks and had better snow coverage, but no avy danger. Once at the top we inclined towards Brown Mtn. Some went straight up the east face then started the traverse, and two other opted to gain the ridge by following a snow covered slash near the saddle. The NE side of Brown Mtn was wind loaded and had some rollerballs. Would not recommend traversing across this even if it looks stable. Once on the ridge the snow was more of a dusting than true snow covered. A few cornices are starting to form at certain spots. You can stay ridge proper if you’re comfy with exposure and mixed climbing. To traverse the ridge from Brown Mtn to link in with the standard route of Huron took about an hour both ways (2hrs total) because of the lack of stable snow. Micros were absolutely needed. You could get by without an ice axe if you’re comfy with snow travel. Once you link in with the standard route it’s pretty straight forward from there. You can descend the standard route and save some time from traversing back across the ridge. If you choose this option do NOT stash any gear near Brown Mtn. Either way, the tour or out and back are about the same time/distance. Both of these routes are now trenched and open! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Huron N Ridge via Lulu Gulch

Huron N Ridge via Lulu Gulch. This route is pretty epic, but requires some pretty significant commitment. It will be a long day. We started around 7am and had already trenched the day prior up to 12k ft to gain vis on the condition of the route. The switchbacks are by far the safest option even in winter.

The gully in the route description did not have enough snow coverage and was mostly scree. We opted for one that was closer to the switchbacks and had better snow coverage, but no avy danger.

Once at the top we inclined towards Brown Mtn. Some went straight up the east face then started the traverse, and two other opted to gain the ridge by following a snow covered slash near the saddle. The NE side of Brown Mtn was wind loaded and had some rollerballs. Would not recommend traversing across this even if it looks stable.

Once on the ridge the snow was more of a dusting than true snow covered. A few cornices are starting to form at certain spots. You can stay ridge proper if you’re comfy with exposure and mixed climbing.

To traverse the ridge from Brown Mtn to link in with the standard route of Huron took about an hour both ways (2hrs total) because of the lack of stable snow. Micros were absolutely needed. You could get by without an ice axe if you’re comfy with snow travel.

Once you link in with the standard route it’s pretty straight forward from there. You can descend the standard route and save some time from traversing back across the ridge. If you choose this option do NOT stash any gear near Brown Mtn. Either way, the tour or out and back are about the same time/distance. Both of these routes are now trenched and open!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

blazintoes

Pre-trenching
1/15/2026 8:55am

Makes the day so much nicer. Maybe I’ll employ your team to pre-trench some of my winter bicentennials. Bigger isn’t always better. Nice work team. Good pictures.

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