Analemma and the South Ridge of Broken Hand Peak

Prelude:

The Sangre de Cristo Range harbors some of the best quality scrambling in the state, but the rock quality truly shines on it's lesser-known and non-standard routes. The link-up of Analemma (NE Ridge) on Crestolita and the South Ridge of Broken Hand Peak was no exception. It was a fantastic day scrambling across exposed, conglomerate ridges and gendarmes. It easily goes down as one of my favorite days in the Colorado's mountains. The scrambling is hard, ranging from 4th class to low 5th along Broken Hand's gendarmes, but it was also some of the most confidence-inspiring and fun terrain I've had the pleasure to work through. This route is probably best attempted later in the summer, once the NE couloir on Crestolita is melted out (easy enough to spot conditions from Broken Hand Pass). However, if the NE couloir is full of snow, there's a South-facing gully that drops from the summit of Crestolita that allegedly goes at Class 2, though it would add some milage and elevation gain (I have not climbed this route). It's worth noting that once you're on Analemma or the South Ridge of Broken Hand Peak (at least in the gendarmes) you are committed. There are no easy bail options, especially not to the East.

It should go without saying that GPX tracks aren't sufficient for micro route route finding, especially along ridgelines. I've re-drawn a GPX track to the best of my ability for macro route finding.

Approach:

Approach either from Broken Hand Pass (dropping down to Cottonwood Lake for Analemma) or via Cottonwood Creek. We took Broken Hand Pass, mostly due to familiarity and because we'd gone up the North Buttress Route of Crestone Peak the day before. Cottonwood Creek is likely the better approach for these routes to avoid the unnecessary elevation gain up and over Broken Hand Pass. In retrospect, maybe I should have done that instead of abusing my poor Subaru up and down South Colony Lakes Rd... Oh well!

Route Information (Broken Hand Pass Approach)

Mileage: Approximately 12 Miles
Elevation: Approximately 5700'
Class: 5.easy

Exposure: Extreme
Rockfall: High (Mostly the NE Couloir Descent off Crestolita)
Route-Finding: High
Commitment: Extreme

Analemma

After descending from Broken Hand Pass, break from the trail just before the 12,400' contour and work your way SW towards a prominent cliff band at the bottom of Crestolita's NE Face. Bypass the cliff band looker's left and scramble up intermittent grass and conglomerate onto the NE Ridge above the cliff band. From here, it's a fairly straightforward ascent to the summit of Crestolita via bomber conglomerate and grassy ledges. The exposure can be intense, but the route can be kept at Class 4 with good route finding. I don't recall anything exceeding the difficulty of the Crestone Headwall at the end of the Crestone Traverse, just good, solid fun! It should go without saying, but this isn't a place you'd want to get caught in inclement weather.

Descend down Crestolita's SE Ridge to the top of the NE Couloir. The NE Couloir looks loose, but there were rock ribs mixed in with the rubble that provided reasonably solid passage until the lower half of the couloir. Generally speaking, the talus is fairly solid and rockfall wasn't a significant concern (at least not compared to some of the more interesting access gullies in the Gore), but still worth letting each person get to a safe zone, especially in the lower section.

After exiting the couloir, continue descending into the valley, turning climber's right towards the col between Broken Hand Peak and Crestolita. Descend from the Col, veering Left around Broken Hand's South flank. There's a short, steep section (approximately 200') where the terrain roles over. Once you're through the steep section, continue traversing (careful not to loose too much elevation) around until you come to a couloir that leads to the saddle between Broken Hand Peak and Milwaukee.

The South Ridge of Broken Hand Peak

The South Ridge of Broken Hand Peak is definitely the crux of the day with some pretty exposed, easy 5th downclimbing from two of it's gendarmes. The climbing here is steeper, but arguably more featured than the Crestone Headwall, so tread cautiously. From the saddle, the ridge proper offers a fun challenge, but easier terrain lies just below and to the left via a wide gully. The part of the ridge leading to the gendarmes has some of the coolest scrambling I've found in the alpine with quasi-cave features and fantastic rock, so I definitely recommend the ridge. Once at the gendarmes, ascend the first on it's East side. At the top, descend directly down into the next notch via a short, but stout low 5th class headwall. Form the notch, descend the gully slightly towards the west, bypassing the 2nd gendarme. Traverse below the second gendarme and scramble back up to the ridge to a broad platform between the 2nd and 3rd gendarme. Scramble to the top of the 3rd (the views are worth it). Drop to the East to a notch on the right-hand side of the 3rd gendarme. From here, it's an exposed, easy 5th class downclimb to the next notch. After the gendarmes, route-finding is fairly straight toward. There's a spectacular knife edge with dramatic exposure to the East for those who want to stay on the ridge proper, but grassy ledges and gullies offer simple route-finding to the West. The terrain continues to ease as you near the summit of Broken Hand Peak.

From the summit, descend down Broken Hand's NW ridge, circling around two prominent gendarmes on the way back to Broken Hand Pass. Careful not to drop too much elevation here as cliffy terrain will force you lower than you'd probably like to go at that point in the day. Have fun!