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Peak(s)  Little Bear Peak  -  14,041 feet
Date Posted  08/08/2025
Date Climbed   08/02/2025
Author  dgriff
 Little Bear WRI   

I would highly highly recommend this route - its truly great both up and down - its more straightforward, easier, and less exposed than the write-ups make it sound. Additionally, going up we heard rockfall in the hourglass 2 or 3 times and were quite glad to be somewhere else. Overall I would say the whole experience was somewhat on-par with pyramid.

Getting off of the standard route up to the rusty staircase is the most "tricky" part of the route finding in my opinion just as the rocks blend in together but follow some of the GPX tracks and it's not bad. Once you are on the top of the staircase, the swoosh will jump out at you. Definitely take in the view at the top as its a bit harder to find on the way down. From there, its the obvious line to the ridge which is not all that far (a theme across the board was all of the features are pretty close together). We took a bit of a side-quest but its not hard to find your way to the crux.

The crux while exposed is on very solid rock with very positive holds - if you have climbing experience you will have no problem at all going up or down which was a relief as the bypass looked quite tricky if you are not tall. It would be pretty hard to protect - there is a nice ledge at the top that you could in theory sling something on but anything you would put gear into would be a bit suspect. The net is if you have the experience to protect someone up the crux, then you wont need any protection.

From there, the white dot is super obvious and makes finding the ledges easy - getting up to them is a bit of an "anything goes" path. The ledges give you a little bit of exposure but are solid and then you're cruising to the top. We built up the cairns a fair bit to find the ledges on the way back so hopefully its not too hard to find.

If you are extremely nervous about exposure we did find a loose 4th class bypass for all of the ridge outside of the crux move but would recommend the ridge as it makes the route super easy to follow and the exposure is not as bad as it sounds / the pictures make it look. I'll try and type up more details later but if you want some notes on the ridge bypass feel free to DM me.


My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4


Comments or Questions
two lunches
User
too short for the crux
8/10/2025 12:40pm
can confirm- is tricky to bypass lol


daway8
User
Thanks
8/25/2025 9:39pm
for the feedback! It's interesting to hear various people's views on this route that has finally just become official!


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