Recent events have forced my hand. I'm hoping this will be a book someday, enjoy. and please leave your thoughts, thanks!

There are no shortcuts on Capitol Peak. If you seek to summit this 14er you must go....

Beyond the Knife Edge

Tales from Colorado's Most Treacherous 14er

by @%&* *&($#@!%& (Gandalf69) pictures by Gandalf69

“When you go to a place like Everest where you can be faced with
extreme conditions and very difficult circumstances, one of the things
it does, is it exposes people. It actually exposes who you are and
what your character is and that's not always a pretty thing.” Beck
Weathers, “The Dark Side of Everest.”

On August 26, 2017, Zachariah White found himself on the summit of
Capitol Peak at 310 in the afternoon. Considered a “late summit” by
the hiking community, White was in luck, the weather was holding
perfect with no signs of a storm. He also had a climbing partner who
had completed 42 of the 58 14ers in the state and who knew the route
on the mountain. As they went down, White thought he saw an easier
way down to Capitol Lake, where the two had camped. His partner
pleaded with him to stay on the standard route, and return across the
“knife edge traverse”. White was leery of the 2000 foot drop offs on
either side of the knife edge so he descended a gully into unknown
terrain, and to his eventual death. He was the fifth person to die on
Capitol Peak in 2017. Why did he descend on a fatal route? What is
the knife edge? How could White make the same mistake a couple
had made just a week before, also leading to their deaths despite us
living in the “information age”?

For Bill Middlebrook, founder of 14ers.com, and founder of many
successful adventures in the mountains. Thanks Bill

Chapter 1 Living is Victory

"On a mountain like K2, no one gives you credit for turning around." Ed Viesters K2

“Oh man, this isn’t looking good.” I said to us, more to myself as
we topped out on 13er k2. The mountain loomed ahead, dark,
ominous, and we looked along the route for signs of any other
climbers. There were none.
“Watch out!” There is a huge %^$# cliff over there!!!”
That was the response from my friend, my brave friend, who had
come along to do the famed Capitol Peak, with the infamous knife
edge……..
My decision to go to Capitol Peak for the first time was not taken
lightly. I researched the route extensively and had seen many online
videos of the knife edge formation to be excited beyond words. I went
there with a friend after a long summer of other hikes and training. We
had done some hikes just to train for Capitol, including the Kelso
ridge route where there is a mini knife edge part which is very similar
to the big knife edge part on Capitol Peak. I had dreamed of going
there for years until I made the decision to go. Looking at the
mountain from the trailhead, (th) we could see the massive cliffs that
were part of the north face of Capitol Peak. Hiking up to the lake
together was great, the weather seemed great. The time of the year
was fall, the end of September. A few parties were either day hiking or
leaving after a backpacking trip as we hiked in. We were mostly
concerned at the time that the aspens hadn’t “exploded” into color
yet, but were very optimistic we would see more foliage later on.
Looking back I find it pretty funny we were more concerned with
timing the aspens changing than climbing the hardest 14er in the
state of Colorado. Perhaps our trivial worries about the trees looking
good for pictures cleared our minds for the struggle that was to take
place over the next few days. As we hiked in, the mountain slowly got
bigger, and looked more imposing. The massive cliffs on the north
face also continued to get bigger.

We went to the lake, and my friend caught a fish about five
seconds after casting into the water. (right when I took his picture,
above) I remember I had asked him why he was bringing fishing stuff
too. We were elated. Everything seemed to be falling into place as we
readied for the next day, summit day, at camp. My first impression of
Capitol Peak was “holy fuck, we are climbing that?!” I’ve never been
so excited, and nervous looking at a mountain before. From the lake,
the mountain towers over you, and the cliffs seem to be magnified.
One can see the knife edge from the lake, however most of the route
is on the other side of the ridge. No other Colorado 14er, or mountain
has had such an impression on me as the one Capitol Peak has. We
both knew going into it that the mountain could be deadly. I have
children, my friend doesn’t, but we both reassured each other that no
one was dying on Capitol Peak.
The weather was looking good. I remember we camped at
campsite number seven, in this case the number seven didn't bring us
much luck. Summit day came, (the next day) and as we looked up
from the lake getting water, the summit was hidden in clouds. It was
semi cloudy that day, but at the time it didn’t seem bad. We seemed
more concerned that the clouds would block the excellent summit
view, instead of thinking maybe these clouds are not good. I
remember having a small knot forming in my stomach, but we were
very committed to attempting the summit that day. When we crossed
the saddle in the basin, the sun came out and it was warm. We could
still see clouds but again, they seemed benign. We still had the
thought that we would go “beyond the knife edge” and make the
summit. Finally reaching the base of k2, we noted the weather did not
seem to be improving. Still, we scrambled up k2 to see Capitol Peak in
all its glory, draped by menacing clouds.

The wind was cold, and
howling. We looked at each other and thought about the same
thing…we need to turn around. We had not seen anyone else on the
mountain that day, and looked along the ridge for a few minutes but
couldn’t see anyone ahead of us on the route. Both of us noted that
the exposure is very dramatic, and perhaps we were not ready. As we
took pictures I remember my friend almost screaming at me to be
careful.

My friend and I both worked at a ski resort in Summit County.
That summer we had gone up other hikes to prepare us for Capitol
Peak. On one such hike we went to Torres Peak, on the Kelso Ridge
route, which has a mini knife edge spot to cross. While exposed, it is
nothing like the exposure on Capitol's knife edge. During the hike, up
the Kelso Ridge route, we were passed by a dad and his 12-year-old
daughter climbing the ridge. He told us that if we were comfortable on
Kelso Ridge, we would be comfortable on Capitol. He was right. It
would take me another summer to see how right he was. He also
stressed that it can be done in one day, versus camping in the lake,
backpacking in. He was right about that too, but more is to come on
this matter.
Later, when the rest of the storm rolled in, we saw lightning,
heard thunder, and felt the cold of snow falling. We knew as we sat in
the tent with the storm breaking that we had made the right decision
to turn around. That night neither of us slept well. All of a sudden
there was a quite terrifying incident that made us both forget about
Capitol Peak, the knife edge, and everything. During the peak of the
storm, something had walked right next to our tent. We don’t know if
it was a bear, mountain lion, or someone creeping up on us but it was
the last thing we needed after a long day of hiking. We did see
someone around the campsite area between storms, but the way the
footsteps came up to the tent freaked both of us out. We both looked
at each other at the same time, when we both heard the approaching
footsteps. Neither of us slept well, as now we were worried about the
tent being “under siege”.

We had car trouble, and had to spend a unexpected night in Aspen as well.

Chapter 2 Capitol History
“One of the Crowing summits of the range, who's gray, prism shaped top and
precipitous sides forbid access.” Henry Gannet, the Hayden Survey, 1873.

When Capitol Peak was first “discovered”, it was not climbed
right away. Following the Civil War, groups like the Hayden Survey
began mapping the uncharted parts of Colorado and the west. The
Gold Rush had brought many people to the western US to “strike it
rich”. Native Americans possibly climbed the mountain first, but that
remains unknown. The first famous 14er was Pikes Peak, and it was
also not climbed right away. Zebulon Pike thought the mountain was
18000 feet in elevation, he also tried climbing it in November, in 1821,
when climbing mountains in America was not a common practice.

The first recorded ascent of Capitol Peak did not occur until August 22,
1909. Percy Hagerman, from Colorado Springs, and legendary
climber Harold Clark made it to the summit and back via the knife
edge on the northeast ridge. Here the “legend” or “infamy” of the
knife edge began. He said “There is one rather sensational bit where
the ridge is so sharp that one must get astride of it and move along
with hands and knees. The drop on the north side here is something
like 1500 feet, appallingly steep and smooth.” It was not named the
“knife edge” yet, but pretty much so. Hagerman added “The greater
part of the north face of Capitol, some 2500 feet high from the lake at
its base, is a exceptionally steep and smooth rock wall. As far as we
can learn no other party has ever been on Capitol Peak and it was
reputed to be unclimbable by the local ranchmen”. Percy Hagerman.

There are a few routes up Capitol Peak, sort of. Not really when compared to other 14ers. Keyword being up, there is only one way down.

The “standard way” is
the northeast ridge. Some people refer to the ride as the “knife ridge”,
it seems to be known as the northeast ridge now though. Before we
get to that however, there is the “way” most people do Capitol, they
backpack into Capitol Lake, spend a night. Wake up do the peak from
there, then leave. The lake is about 7 miles from the th, and about
2000 feet higher than the th. Some people can do the 17-mile trip from
the th to peak and back, 5100 feet of vertical gain, in one entire day. I
have done both ways, and while each way is not wrong, there is yet
another way. There is also yet another side to approach the peak
from, from the Snowmass Creek Trailhead. On the hike in, from the
Capitol Creek Trailhead, there are many good camping spots along
the trail. On my many trips to Capitol Peak, I've always approached
from the Capitol Creek Trailhead. Once at the peak, the standard
route takes you over a saddle between Capitol and Mt Daley into a
huge basin, usually covered with snow most of the year. From there
you make your way up to “k2”, a prominent 13er, but conveniently for
peak baggers the peak is on the way. To get to K2, you can also take
the ridge up right from the saddle, this is known as the ridge direct
route. This way involves more climbing and loose rock. The whole
mountain has climbing and loose rock, however the ridge direct route
gives you that much sooner than the “standard route.” Past k2, you
come across the famed knife edge, along the northeast ridge. The
knife edge is a section that is about 150 feet long, and is tricky for
many climbers. The top of the edge is sharp and jagged like a knife
but not sharp enough to cut you. On each side there are huge
dropoffs which makes the knife edge part very intimidating. Even
more so intimidating is the knowledge that on your way back down
you must cross this feature again. From the knife edge, you must
scramble through loose rock to reach the upper face area. This is the
last push to the summit, and is steep, also with loose rock. You can
see the entire route up from k2, but it takes time to traverse it. The
route takes time to climb back down as well.

There is yet another way up Capitol, it is possible to rock climb
the 1800 foot north face, from the Capitol pass area. In 1937 this face
was first climbed by Carl Blaurock. In the winter of 1972 Fritz
Stamberger and Gordon Whitmer climbed the north face in the middle
of winter, then bivouacked on the summit and descended the next
day. Having seen and talked to people who did that climb, I can
honestly say that’s the “hardest way up” Capitol, however all these
ways up the mountain have one thing in common, there is only one
way down. You must cross the knife edge on the way back.

Chapter 3 14ering in the 21st century
“I am fain to confess a deplorable weakness in my character. No sooner have I
ascended a peak than it becomes a friend, and delightful as it may be to seek
“fresh woods and pastures new”, in my heart of hearts I long for the slopes of
which I know every wrinkle, and on which each crag awakens memories of mirth
and laughter and of the friends long ago. As a consequence of this terrible
weakness, I have been no less than seven times atop of the Matterhorn.” A. F.
Mummery 1874

I debated with my self endlesslessy on how much of general 14er
hiking I should discuss, and whatnot. Here we go down the rabbit
hole…..
Any hiker, or climber should be carrying the“ten essentials”.
These are as follows
1)Water
2)Extra food
3)Firstaid
4)Firestarter
5)Proper clothes, extra if possible
6)Sunscreen
7)Compass, map, knowledge on the area, and know how to use those things...
8)Knife, multi tool, small repair/sewing kit
9)Flashlight headlamp, extra batteries too, light source a must
NOT be your cell phone’s light….that's your last last resort.
10) Space blanket,or other small emergency shelter

While those aren't in any particular order, I must make a point about
water. The human body can survive up to a week without food,
perhaps a little longer. The human body can only survive for up to
THREE days without water. At high altitude, the body needs more
water, and you expend more water because the air is usually very dry.
I'm not saying to carry a 5 gallon container every hike, but water is
definitely the key to life. A filter or something should always be
carried, and you should be on the lookout for refilling water, if
necessary.

Other equipment which might be useful…..
Ice ax, show shovel, avalanche transponder, helmet, crampons,
signaling devices, insect repellant, lip balm, ropes, carabiners, small
stove, skis or snowboard, snowshoes, hiking poles, ski poles,
gloves, backup gloves,
Along with the ten essentials, you need to be aware of the dangers in
the high country. Some danger is already there, and some danger you
bring with you.
Subjective Hazards These dangers are created by us, the humans.
Way to go everybody. Examples are bad route choice, dehydration,
under preparation, overexertion, carelessness, equipment misuse,
and so on.
Objective Hazards These dangers are caused by the mountain, and
like a mountain, we can’t do anything about them. Being aware and
mitigating objective hazards are the only solution. Examples of these
dangers are unpredictable storms, rockfall, icefall, avalanche,
lightning, etc.

Mountain Specific Hazards Does your 14er route have something like
the knife edge along the way that might be too much exposure for
you? Is the route you have chosen more prone to rockfall, slippery
rock, whatever? Many resources exist to aid climbers on their
adventure, USE THEM. It's much better to know about that trail
junction, left or right, before you are actually out there. Research your
mountain and its route, parking, etc, because it's not rocket science,
and it will greatly help your summit day. There are whole books and
more related to this subject, and I did not want to spend too much
time on the other 14ers, when in my mind Capitol Peak towers far
above the rest.
Leave no Trace
The whole “leave no trace” thing isn't a crime thing, just about
respecting the wilderness. People are asked to stay on trails, for
example, pick up their dog waste, etc. A huge aspect is packing out
your trash, basically not being slobs because you are out in the
middle of nowhere. Respect the mountains.

14er Weather
Colorado mountain weather, and mountain weather in general is
usually volatile. Ridges and peaks funnel winds, which increase
exponentially the higher you go in elevation. For every 100 meter rise
in elevation, the temp drops approx 1 degree fahrenheit. The higher
you go in elevation also increases your exposure to the sun, and can
lead to snow blindness in extreme cases.
Lighting is also more dangerous above treeline, and up to high areas,
of course. Lightning is very dangerous even if you aren't high, it can
still come for you, or your friend. The temp of lightning is 5 times
hotter than the surface of the sun. Lightning can also strike from up to
20 miles away…the so called “strike out of the blue”. No one should
fear every cloud in the sky, but lightning is very dangerous and
should be respected. If your skin tangles, your hair stands on end,
metal objects hum…you might be screwed. I myself have had many
close calls with lightning, and it's a quite extreme force of nature.
Summertime in the mountains can lead to many usually brief, but also
usually intense and violent thunderstorms. Rain and hail, or snow can
make any route slippery. In Colorado's mountains, snow can be
expected any time of the year. The same holds true for many
mountains, or mountain areas that exceed 8000 feet in elevation.
Rockfall chances increase exponentially during and after precipitation
because the water loosens the rock from the mountain. Be careful.
Weather Hazards of many various kinds always seen to be there. If
you hike a 14er on a blue bird day, with no wind and no storms,
consider yourself lucky! Many hikers have tales of bad weather in the
mountains.

If the weather is bad, despite a good forcast, turn around. The mountains aren't going anywhere.

1st 14er?
While this is not a guide book per se, many of the 14ers are easier
than Capitol Peak, and should be your introduction to 14er
climbing/hiking. Many of the front range mountains, with the
exception of Longs Peak and Pikes Peak are “easy”, have low
exposure, and have good road/trailhead access, usually. As with the
law and lawyers, it seems like there are always exceptions with the
mountains as well. I can recommend you start early, and watch the
weather. Just because you picked a “good forecast” day doesn't
mean it will hold up. Make sure you are plenty hydrated, with water,
up to 3 days, or a week in advance if coming from lower elevation.
That means if you don’t live in Breckenridge, you better be drinking
that water! It doesn't hurt to eat healthy 3 days in advance as
well…..save your whatever for AFTER your big day in the mountains.
Trust men, mountain dew and vodka don’t make for great climbing
drinks.
Dogs and beginners on 14ers
I've never taken any of my dogs on any hiking/climbing I have done,
so therefore I have nothing on that. Some routes are dog friendly.
Beginners on the other hand…Ive seen quite a few of those people up
on the trails. I feel like the biggest mistakes people make are, 1), not
being in good enough shape and hydrated, and 2) not being prepared,
as far as bringing extra food, water, etc. Take it slow on the trail too,
just because some Lance Armstrong want to be guy is running the
route, that don’t mean #^%$. You do you, and let them do them.
Ski or ride the 14ers ?
Some people chose to Ski and or snowboard on the 14ers when snow
conditions are appropriate. This brings a whole new level of fun and
enjoyment, but also danger. Snow can slide down a mountain in the
form of a avalanche, and it takes whoever is in its way with it. The
snow in a avalanche has the consistency of wet cement, so being
buried at shallow depth can be deadly. Be very careful, do your research on your route.
Summit signs, summit selfies, gpx trax, strava data, climbing
websites, 14ers.com, etc etc etc
A common practice people do in the “present time”, is to take a
summit sign with them. A summit sign is usually, but not limited to, a
piece of cardboard with the appropriate mountain, and summit
elevation. People do this so when they look at their pictures they can
go, oh yeah, that was when we did Mt Sherman with your friend. More
often than not, people end of leaving their beloved summit signs on
the summit, much to the chagrin of other climbers, like myself. I
personally don't care about the summit sign itself, I just like to see
people be responsible for their stuff. I mean, you carried it UP, you can
carry it down, right? Maybe just caption your pictures...
Of course many people take pictures on the summits of 14ers, or
other mountains they have climbed. I've always thought about going
up to a popular summit and charging 5 dollars per picture, and sell
bottled water for 25 dollars too. If you are reading this and you haven't
heard of the “go pro”, and you like to do lots of things outside, you
need to check those puppies out.
14er Climbing Class Rankings 1-5
1) Easy hiking along a defined trail
2) Slightly harder trail hiking, but still easy route finding. Route is
longer and or more strenuous.
3) Climbing as if climbing on a latter. Climbing in the sense of the
word. Exposure increases, but relatively “easy” rock climbing.
4) Harder rock climbing, exposure increases dramatically. “Things
start to get dangerous” as my favorite 14er guide book puts it.
5) Hardcore climbing rope is necessary in case of fall.
“Big sheer drops”....although I can say some class 3 or 4 moves
definitely have“big sheer drops”. Alex Honnold type stuff.

Chapter 4 The Dark Side of Capitol
The Treacherous Summer of 2017 and Beyond

“When I first went, there were placks that represented people. When I left, all
that was left of people were placks.” K2 Fatal Altitude

In 2017, an unexpected five people fell to their deaths on Capitol
Peak in one season. Four separate incidents, much like the 1986
season on K2 which was not one bad incident, but many. Dramatic
disasters such as the 1996 storm on Mt Everest have plagued the
mountain, but in 1986 K2 had many different disasters by many
different expeditions. The four deadly incidents happened over about
six weeks. Capitol Peak, once just “another 14er” was suddenly
thrown into the public eye. I believe as with many traumatic incidents,
the individual people and their stories are sometimes forgotten or
lumped together. These people and their experiences must not be
forgotten but knowledge will not make the mountain safer.
In 2021, a man fell to his death around the knife edge area. When
the search and rescue went to recover his body, a massive landslide
was triggered, sending the body farther down the mountain and
injuring some SAR personal. His body is located in a crevasse along
the face, and will remain on Capitol Peak forever. In 2022, on
September 3rd, just before 800am, a woman climber fell about 1000
feet to her death on Capitol. She was holding onto a rock for support
when it broke away, taking her down the mountain. She had climbed
all of the 14ers, except Capitol. In theory her climbing experience
should have protected her. As of the fall, 2022, a newer white cross
has been erected on k2 to honor to fallen. I was very aware on my
recent trip to the peak that the route is dangerous, having gone there
on September 27th-29th later in 2022.
The first death in 2017 was a young man, Jake Lord, 24. He and
his climbing partner went up Capitols ridge direct route. Lord and his
partner had trained especially for the exposure on Capitol Peak. The
route has been described to me as “cliffy” the route is not as traveled
as the loop into the basin while approaching k2. It is believed they
mistakenly took the ridge direct way as they left the saddle. They
made their way along the exposed and loose ridge when it happened.
As Lord reached to grab hold of a boulder sized rock, the rock
suddenly became unstable and slide down the east side of the ridge
taking the climber down as well. His partner downclimbed to him,
preformed CPR and called for help. Lord passed away while his
partner was trying to save his life.
What ultimately happened? A boulder sized rock, a huge rock,
which looked stable, was not. An accident that could happen to
anyone, being in the wrong place at the wrong time. I have gone the
ridge direct way, modified, and I can say that rock is definitely loose
and dangerous. Loose rock is also dangerous on any mountain, let
alone Capitol. The ridge direct way is seldom taken by any groups of
climbers, so what is dangerous in that section is made even more
dangerous because other people aren't breaking things loose and
such. How long can a rock sit on the edge before tumbling down?
Hundreds or thousands of years? Lord and his climbing partner were
experienced, and as mentioned had mentally prepared for the
exposure and harder hiking required on Capitol Peak. They were
hiking together, he wasn’t solo. The weather was good, by all
accounts he just had some bad luck.

The accident occurred July 16th, or from one source I found, the
15th. Because Lord and his partner were taking the ridge direct way,
the death did not cause much of a stir as the other deaths later in the
summer. At the time, especially on the news, they stressed that it was
not the “standard way” up the mountain. When I went that way,
modified, skirting the cliffs and that terrain is definitely dangerous. I
was worried that before I got to K2 could fall in this area as well. I also
recall sending a huge boulder crashing down towards the basin, and
thinking that the people down there must think I was crazy to take
such a route. I don't think they planned on taking the “ridge direct”
route, but I also don't think that taking such a route going up was a
fatal decision. The first death was first, and many people were
sympathetic, but at the time it was considered “one of those things”,
because people die in the mountains all the time. As soon as many
people heard “Capitol Peak, off route fall”, they already knew the
whole story, and that was that.

The next fall happened when 35 year old Jeremy Shull slipped
off the knife edge and down the east side. He might have fallen
somewhere between k2 and the knife edge, which contains some
dangerous moves. He was experienced, and similar to the first death,
wrong place wrong time. Other people have fallen off the knife edge
before he did. Any sort of moisture can make the rock slippery, even if
it's from the night or day before. Shull left behind a wife with a 2
month old son. He fell on August 6th while going up. Shull was also
with a group of people. Reportaly he was ahead of them and out of
sight when he fell. This fall was later documented quite by accident by
other climbers who were doing the peak that same day. These
climbers posted a youtube video of their climb. When they are done,
at Capitol Lake, you can see the helicopters and a plane in the
background. They then tell the camera that someone fell off the “knife
ridge.” They mention search and rescue but then quickly mention it's
most likely a body recovery operation. The video was posted the next
day, August 7th. Capitol Peak had shown its slopes to be treacherous,
but more was to come. Because the knife edge is so exposed,(or the
area before the knife edge…) many people did not view this death as
“unexpected”, a climber fell in a dangerous part of the mountain. Just
like the first, it was considered “one of those things.”

The next accident changed everything. This time it was a
“double event”, that is, two people lost their lives. Ryan Marcil was
26, his girlfriend was 27, Carlin Brightwell. They were a couple, in
love, and locals from Aspen. The couple had only been dating for a
few months but had moved in together and were clearly happy
together. While they had not done many big dangerous hikes like
Capitol Peak, on August 20th, they reached the summit. Other hikers
reported talking to them before they headed down. They were tired,
but in good spirits and ready to descend. Just as they
reached the start of the “ridge proper”, they seemed to see another
way down to Capitol Lake. They took the mystery way down instead
of going back over across the knife edge. It was a fatal decision. They
descended a gully which is steep and dangerous, and ends in a
massive cliff band well over 600 ft high. There is no way around this
except to climb up and regain the ridge, and the standard route. The
only details we have about their deaths came from people at the lake reported
hearing screaming, and the sounds of massive rockfall. Three
different parties of people camping at the lake heard signs of
disturbance on the mountain. One person reported hearing a woman
and man screaming at each other, rockfall, and the woman screaming
for a full minute. Another person reported the screaming and the
rockfall, but had no time estimation. No one saw them go down the
“death gully”, no one saw them fall, but their bodies were recovered
below the north face, below the gully they thought was a shortcut. It
has been speculated that the couple just wanted to avoid the knife
edge, and ended up off route.

While all death is tragic, their story is especially so. They were
locals, reportedly some of the search and rescue people knew them.
They also were in love, and had to suffer before they died. We can
only imagine how it was up there when they were trying to climb
down, but we know they did not fall right away after going down the
gully. That means they were climbing around extreme terrain for
hours, already tired from having made the summit earlier, before they
finally fell. It was also reported that the sounds of screaming and of
rockfall did not occur til closer to dark. Three different groups
camping in the area called in the sounds of screams and rockfall, and
these groups heard those sounds as the darkness was falling that
day. The screams were heard around 620, and again at 710 pm. Some
people speculated that if they had headlamps, they could have
signaled for help or something. The couple did not have headlamps,
although I'm guessing they had some light source, because they had
done smaller hikes before this. Either way, no one at the lake or
anywhere else saw lights high on the mountain, signaling for help.
Their bodies were not recovered right away, because according to the
couple's friends, their hiking plans were “tentative”. That weekend
there was a solar eclipse, and some thought they were staying out in
the wilderness longer to see the event, until they were reported
overdue.
This gully has been since nick named the “death gully”. It took
another death to solidify the name “death gully”. Not long after, that is
six days, Zackariah White, 21 died in almost an identical way. While
descending from the summit, at 445 pm he went down the same gully,
and eventually to his death.
“There are cliffs that way.”
“How do you know that?”
“Il show you when we are back at camp.”
“No, I'm going to walk down this way a little and see how it
goes.”
White had a partner who was experienced and knew the route,
and although they did not know each other, they had made the
summit together. His partner hoped desperately to meet him at the
lake ok, but most likely he had already died by then. It takes a good
couple hours to get back to the lake from the top of the gully, going
down the standard route. The standard route takes you away from the
north face once you leave 13er k2, so the likelihood of his partner
reaching the lake and somehow helping white down was very very
low. The last accident occurred on August 26th. Despite what had
happened a week before the same mistake resulted in death. Despite
living in the “information age” the same mistake was made. White
went down the gully, believing it to be a short cut, an easier way down
to Capitol Lake and like the couple from Aspen, was never seen alive
again.

His climbing partner waited for him for hours back at the lake. In
the morning when White had not returned, he called it in. Like the
couple a week before, it's estimated he fell an incredible distance,
causing his death. Where White's body was recovered was not more
than 100 yards away from the Aspen couple's body locations. Did
White, who had never climbed a 14er before capitol feel he knew
better being only 21? His partner, who I shall not mention, had
climbed 42 of the states 58 14ers. In the climbing sense he was WAY
more qualified than his partner. Of course in today's age of “touchy
feely” where everyone's opinion matters, even when it's wrong, his
partner may have been afraid to argue with White, the 21 year old. I
don't know, I was not there, and can only speculate like everyone else
exactly what was said between the two. Many crucified his hiking
partner for not keeping him on the standard route. White also had on
shoes meant for skateboarding. However he had made it to the
summit in those shoes, it's possible if he stayed on the route he
would be alive. The shoes weren’t the deciding factor in his death, it
was going off route. Whites climbing partner had to think about what
happened on the long seven mile hike out from the lake, and probably
still thinks about it to this day. I believe his climbing partner could
only do so much, if the young man was that determined to “go that
way”, then I would have let someone do the same thing. The ridge of
Capitol is not a great place to be physically fighting over differences.
In about six weeks, five people had died on Capitol Peak.
According to records, before 2017, four people had died on the
mountain in 14 years. Many people do not even attempt the peak, and
many who do try, turn around at k2 or the knife edge. Many people
can’t handle the constant exposure of thousands of empty feet below
you as you make your way on the mountain.

At the Capitol Creek Th, where many people who climb the
mountain park, there is a sign. On the sign it reads “Technically
difficult terrain ahead. Loose rock causes unstable footing. Routes
are not maintained. Route deviation may result in death.” Each of
these sentences, or phrases is paired with a little symbol. The most
alarming of these symbols is a person falling, like as if falling off a
cliff. Below this the sign also says “Hiring a guide recommended for
all climbs in the Elk mountain range.” There are some guide services
out there, one of them is located in Aspen and it takes people up
Capitol Peak. For a modest fee of course. Some guides will “strap in”
with ropes for the knife edge part, and other exposed parts on the
route. I have seen such groups in action climbing about. Personally I
think the rope part is a bit ridiculous, but I’m sure they are doing it to
“assure safety” for their paying clients. Through use of online
websites some people are able to guide others on mountains, again
for a fee. After the five deaths in one summer many people argued
that something should be done to make the mountain safer. Some
argued for a sign at the top of the death gully, or to somehow restrict
who can climb the mountain. Some feel that a sign warning of danger
would ruin the “experience” of being on a mountain like Capitol Peak
in the wilderness. Despite the discussion, Capitol is still as dangerous
as ever. Even putting a sign at the top of the death gully would not
mean that someone sooner or later would say “@#$% it” and go that
way anyway. 14ers.com has added at the start of the Capitol page a
note about how dangerous it can be, and reminds people to be
prepared. Everything I have ever seen on Capitol Peak, published or
from people, is that there is one way up and down, and no shortcuts.
.
After the deaths, a trend started on the 14ers website discussing
the death gully and such. It deviled into people arguing for a sign at
the top of the gully or not. Many people think a sign there would ruin
the climbing experience. Others felt like a sign was not necessary if
people researched the route. Still others challenged people to get up
there and put a sign down. No such sign is up there, but rest assured
the next time someone dies going that way, the discussion will start
again. On other mountains where there are “unseen” dangers, some
signs do exist. Of the five deaths, two hikers didn’t even reach the
summit. The other three of course did summit but did not live to tell
anyone about it. Initially there was much speculation about if the
young couple from Aspen summited or not, but someone did post on
the 14ers.com site that they encountered a couple on the summit.
They were tired and eager to get down safely, but did not descend
with the other hiking party. Two accidents in as many weeks involving
people getting off route while descending is still pretty hard to
believe.

Summit fever wasn’t really a huge factor in the three later
deaths, possibly in the first two, but most climbers would agree that a
loose boulder, or falling in an exposed area like the knife edge is
considered more objective danger. Vs subjective danger, danger
caused by yourself more or less. Summit fever usually involves
people pushing into bad weather, going for a summit knowing its too
late in the day, etc. Summit or bust basically. Anyone who has done
climbing on any regularly must sooner or later come to grips with
summit fever on some level. I can see the top, but I also hear thunder,
and it's raining. It's sure more snowy, icy than I expected, but #$%^% it,
lets keep going. @#%^, I left my lunch in my car and I’m halfway up,
*#$$ it. Ironically, summit fever wasn’t really a contributing factor in
any of the deaths that summer. While five people total died on Capitol
that summer, other people were killed on other mountains.
After the dangerous summer of 2017, Capitol took a couple of
summers off before adding two more fatalities in the next two years.
One such body was not recovered from the mountain, which is very
rare for mountain body recovery operations, whatever you call it. This
person has come to rest at a point below the knife edge on the east
side, but not totally into the bottom of the ridge. The accident
occurred on August 2, 2021, and the victim's name was Kelly
Mcdermet. Mcdermet was 32, from Wisconsin, and according to those
who knew him loved being in the mountains. His body is located 1200
feet below the knife edge on a small shelf, and as mentioned, will rest
there forever. During the first attempt to recover the body it is
believed that climbers above triggered a massive rockslide that
injured three of the SAR personnel badly. From the route above, his
body is not visible. His resting place is quiet and peaceful.

The other death was recent, September 3rd of 2022. This
second person fell just below the summit area, well past the knife
edge. Had this person lived they would have completed the 14ers.
Her name was Sarah Beechler. As she was nearing the summit, a rock
she grabbed on to broke loose, and she fell around 900 feet into the
Pierre Lakes Basin. I believe she was around the ledge area, but it's
hard to say, I was not there. Beyond the knife edge much of the rock
can be loose and dangerous. As mentioned before, she had done all
of the 14ers in the state before finishing on Capitol Peak. Many other
14ers such as Little Bear and the Maroon Bells are notorious for
rockfall. Sarah was reportally a strong and cautious hiker who didn't
take stupid chances high in the mountains. Her hiking solo was also
not unusual for her. Many guidebooks and such encourage people to
wear helmets, in case someone, or something, like a mountain goat,
knocks a rock off above you.

These are the stories of the next chapter in the mountain's tragic
history of death, and being dangerous. Despite one death or many,
Capitol Peak will always attract anyone who wants to complete the
14ers. Many people who see the mountain in person, by Capitol Lake,
are called to climb it anyway. Many people see videos online of the
knife edge and decide to take on the climb. There will always be
members of the “Capitol Peak bereaved club” as well, despite my
attempts through this work to make people aware of the danger of
such mountains.
Once again, after the most recent death, trends on the 14ers.com
site discussed it all. The trend page began to take on a disturbing
trend when someone posted a rather crud questionnaire about the
death. Most of these questions are answered, and if not the answers
are inferred. For example, one such question was “was she wearing a
helmet?”. Helmets help with falling rock, not bodies falling nearly
1000 feet. Helmets do not help with holds breaking away in exposed
spots either. Many felt that these lines of questions concerning the
young lady's death were disrespectful, and unnecessary.
Unnecessary because anyone who has been on Capitols ridge and
beyond knows how great the danger level ramps up. I agree, the
whole first pages of the death part were all respectful and moraning,
until that #$%^&&* came along. Luckily the trend got shut down to
prevent further bickering. All we have learned about ourselves in the
“information age” is how to be more uninformed and stupid. And also
being trolls? Much of what went on in that particular trend disgusted
me, and yet I was a full participant in the discussion.

Very recently, this summer, 2025, 2 climbers tried to repeat history around the death gully. They were rescued after a night exposed on the mountain, in snow and lightning. They made it. If you have read this far in, I hope its clear there are no shortcuts to the lake on Capitol Peak. You must come back across the ridge, the knife edge, to 13er k2.

Chapter 5 Return to Capitol
“ There are no pacts between lions and men. And Wolves and lambs
have no concord.” Homer

In the Spring of 2020, I returned to Capitol Peak for the second time. I
went with a different friend, and we discovered tons of snow. We went
in early June. One of the times I’ve regretted not bringing my
snowboard along. We did not summit but spent a couple nights
camping out. We did some climbing, off trail, trying to avoid the snow,
that ended up being super dangerous, but we were ok. The last night
it was stormy like crazy, and then stormy the next day. We sat in the
tent for most of the day. Around 2 or 3, it slowed and stopped. The
sun came out, we marveled at the weather and broke camp.
On the way back to the car we met a group of people hiking to
lake and back. They asked if either of us drove a blue truck. “I drive a
blue truck!” my friend exclaimed. They then told us they had seen a
truck with a tree fallen on it, but that it was a smaller tree. We returned
to the th to see that it was a pretty big tree, my friend's truck had been
damaged. I was in shock. In 2 trips there, 2 different yet bad instances
of bad luck, just at the th! Was the mountain telling me that I would
never summit, and I should stay away? Not only was his truck
damaged, his grill he brought to cook steaks, which we had in the car,
didn’t work. We ended up getting McDonald’s in Glenwood Springs.
Luckily, we could still drive out, if you could say luck in such a thing…
There were two trees close to the one that fell, and these helped
absorb some of the impact of the initial fall. Lots of damage was still
there of course. Coming back after a couple days to a damaged car
was certainly not a pleasant experience. In truth in was quite
traumatic because I had already had car trouble there before…..both
at the end of trips….. I also came back again a few weeks later, with the same friend, different car.

We made it to the knife edge, and he got spooked, I went across and back, and we went down. A week

or so later I came back again, solo, but turned around past the knife, around the ridge because of incoming weather.

Chapter 6 The Summit
“I actually was quite scared and very much aware that this 16 or 18
hour period could be the most testing of my life.” Matt Dickensen,
photographer who summited Everest. Taken from “Dark Side of
Everest"

Despite everything the mountain had thrown at me, I could not
shake my desire to summit. I had gone beyond the knifes edge and
back, but not to the actual summit. Unable to wait too long for anyone
to come with, I made plans to set out on July 11th from the trailhead. I
brought extra shoes for the few creek crossings before the lake. That
day as I went up the saddle, I couldn’t help but notice that the weather
was perfect. Not a cloud in the sky and no wind. After my first
experience on Capitol, I couldn’t have dreamed for a better day to
attempt the summit. After reaching k2, I passed many groups coming
down, including someone I had met at the th a week before. Everyone
wished me luck as I slowly proceeded up the mountain. Most people
that day had camped either at Capitol Lake, or somewhere in the
valley. I was one of the few who did the whole thing in one day. I went
past the knife quickly, but reassured people nearby coming down that
it was not my first time on the edge. I tend to have little to no fear of
anything, which can for myself be dangerous at times. With no wind,
the huge drops on either side weren’t nearly so huge looking and
feeling. As I reached closer to the upper face of the mountain, a group
of four came up behind me. Two women, two men, one of the men had
climbed Capitol before and said we were on route. We all summited
together after crossing the upper faces difficult areas. I texted some
of my friends “I’m on top of the world”. We were joined shortly after
by a man and his son.

When I finally reached the summit after 9 plus hours of effort, I
felt a sense of excitement and relief. I could also feel the daunting
return trip down, but it seemed much more doable. The actual summit
is not too big when compared to some 14ers where 100s of people
can share the summit at the same time. Pikes Peak and Mt Evans in
Particular have huge flat summits. Capitol Peaks summit offers
amazing views in every direction. Any 14er summit features some
great mountain vista view, some are just more dramatic than others.
During my summit break I lit a few incense sticks for those who had
lost their lives climbing the mountain. It wasn’t much but I felt like it
was a good thing to do. Five people in 2017, plus others are now
spending eternity on Capitol, I felt obligated to do something for them.
I hung back as the summit group we had started down so I could light
a few more incense sticks, then I started down.
The weather held throughout the day. Downclimbing before the
knife edge alone, was definitely dangerous. A few times I went off
route, and discovered I was off route very quickly. Just after I crossed
the knife edge coming down, I met a couple going up. The time was
around 350pm, but they looked extremely competent. Only when I had
down climbed k2 did I feel safe and home free. I met the couple’s hiker
friend in the basin, and to my relief he said they are extremely fast
and experienced. He said they arrived to the lake to camp, and
because the weather was so good, their party had gone for the
summit. He was turning around when I met him, I bid them farewell
and started the long journey back. I ran into the group of people I had
summited with on the way back. They wished me well, and I did the
same to them, envious of their campsite. A few hours later I would be
back at the th, in darkness. I drove to Glenwood Springs, got food,
and passed out at one of the rest stops on i70. Looking back on that
day, it's still so hard to believe how perfect the weather was for such a
hike.

After my 1st successful ascent, I would later return 3 more times
that summer and fall. Each time I summited, and each time it was a
different experience. One of these that stood out was seeing 2 groups
of 2 people climb the north face, ropes and all. I saw 2 on the summit,
and 2 on the way down. To talk with guys who had climbed up the
face was a very exciting experience. My first trip back I brought back
Colton, and was able to experience his triumph after our ordeal the
first time up the fall before 2020. The last trip I made there was
towards the end of September, right when the Aspen leaves were
changing. My only regret was not being able to take my one friend,
who freaked at the exposure back and summit with him. He did other
hikes with exposure, and told me he’s ready. I have a reason to go
back, not that I won’t be going back a lot.
When Colton heard I had gone back to Capitol and summited, he
immediately expressed a desire to go back. We planned on the next
week after my first ascent. We planned such a quick return because
the weather looked great. Instead of camping at the lake, we camped
earlier in the valley, about 3 miles below the lake. When we summitted
a group behind us had someone, who was completing the Colorado
14ers. That was exciting. A little snow squall moved in as well, we saw
a snow rainbow. Also, notably, the first part of the decent from the
summit was perilous. A member of the other party slid 10 feet in one
spot, and everyone held their collective breaths. No one fell. Everyone
made it down safe. Later, at camp, we heard some light thunder but
nothing crazy. We hiked out. We didn’t have to spend an unexpected
night in Aspen this time! This trip was memorable because my friend
brought a cooler to camp, so the first night at camp we feasted on
steak and other great food not normally brought on a backpacking
trip. It was exciting to do Capitol with my friend who I had first
attempted the peak with. We were also not bothered by a bear or
whatever came by our tent the fall before.

With two successful ascents in two weeks, it seemed I had
scratched the itch of Capitol Peak. At last. A few weeks later however,
the weather seemed primed for another big hike of something. Plans
fell through on other peaks and one Friday when I got off work, I made
the decision to go back. I camped at the th. There was a full moon, or
close to it, and it kept waking me that night. Once again, the weather
gods smiled on me. Great weather going up. There were many people
on the mountain that day, I passed a small group who turned around
because the knife edge was too much for them. They seemed
ashamed to admit it but I told them hiking within your comfort zone is
super important. They seemed happier. I arrived at the summit alone
for about 20 minutes. Then I heard clanking and voices. I thought I
was going crazy for a split second then someone topped out on the
north face side of the mountain. He and his partner had climbed the
1800 north face. I talked with them on the summit for at least ten,
fifteen minutes. I was even more impressed to learn there were two
people following them up the face! And I thought I was hard core.
Then we heard some thunder, saw some lightning on a few clouds
over by Snowmass Mountain which looked very bad. The sun was out
over us, but being on top of a mountain with lightning over on a
nearby mountain is not exactly comforting. We went down. Despite
that, the weather still held, which was very incredibly lucky. In the
basin I saw the other two people. They were traversing the cliffs that
go up on the ridge direct route, from the saddle. At first, like on the
summit, I couldn’t believe it. I made sure the first group was behind
me, they were. When I reached the saddle, so did this other group.
They had their ropes and everything. They told me of a “secret
passage” through the cliffs, what I had seen them on. They of course
had also gone up the north face. The next time I come back to Capitol I
told myself, I will try that, the secret passage in the cliffs. I assumed
that would be the next climbing season. This trip was when I got the
picture of the 4 guys coming back over the knife edge, on the books
cover.

At the end of September 2020, once again the weather looked
good for climbing. Because Colton and I had been denied the aspens
changing there the year before, and the sudden onset of winter, I had
missed a lot of “leaf changing”. So, I decided to go back once again. I
was also very keen to try the secret passageway I had seen those
other climbers on, to reach k2 without going into the basin and up
again. When I reached the saddle, this time I went up. I didn’t climb
the ridge direct way, climbing on top of the ride itself, but skirted it to
climbers left. The guys I talked to described it as “class 3 at most ''
and they were right.

There were a couple of sketchy moves, but in
some areas, it was as wide as a road. Plus there were cairns
throughout. I took my time as the middle part was pretty exposed and
I did not want to rush into unknown terrain. Because I had not climbed
that way myself, and only caught a glimpse of the other climbers
looking up on my other trip, the terrain was very new and unknown.
At one point I sent a rock tumbling down into the basin. I’m sure the
people down there thought I was crazy to go such a route. I tentatively
yelled rock, the proper climbing protocol.

Chapter 7 Summit Fever
“Doctors and experts tell me it's absolutely impossible for a man my size can climb Mt Everest with oxygen or without. And I say to hell with that, to hell with that. I will not be restricted, I won't take it. For gods sake I've been paying bloody insurance since I was 14 years of age. Insurance polices, death duties you know, and they have the coffin ready you know, and when you die they want you to die peacefully like my mother did and my father did....To hell with that! I'm going to Live!" Brian Blessed

“How big is the commitment to get to the summit? Are there complex sections high
on the mountain that require a lot of time on your ascent AND descent? If so, the
risk of getting caught in bad weather or without adequate supplies is higher. For
Example, Capitol Peak's standard route has been given an EXTREME commitment
rating because once you're past K2 and working you're way closer to the summit,
there's no escape from the ridge and you're a long way away from flat terrain
and tree line. If weather rolls in when you're climbing high on Capitol, you're in
trouble and the only way back is via the same route.” from 14ers.com

When the summer ends and fall begins, winter is right around
the corner......

I had been extra busy this summer (2022) with two jobs,
but I planned to go to Capitol Peak at least once. This is the story of
two miracles that happened on my trip. I am by no means a super
religious person, but it is hard not to think something profound
happened to me high up on the slopes of Capitol Peak.

Late in September I made my move to have a week off from both jobs at
once, and head towards Aspen. The trees were changing, but not 100
percent, but still good enough to make it very scenic. Before I went to
the trailhead to camp, I poked around the bells, as far as you can go
before you have to get a reservation. Coming up to k2, it did not take a
degree in meteorology to see that the weather might not be great.

I skirted the cliffs going high as you approach k2. Arriving at k2
I could see the rest of the mountain in all its glory. I could also see
that the

weather was indeed not looking ideal for climbing.

As bad as the weather looked so far, it didn't really look like a full on blizzard.
Then, it happened. It started to snow, if ever so slightly and slowly.
The forecast snow chance for that day was something like 15 percent
and the presence of the snow made me uneasy. I decided to take a
break at k2.

I had come this far, taken the days off work, I could at
least sit and watch the mountain for a while. At this point, I had all but
decided to turn around. Then, the sun came out. It was still snowing
lightly, but it looked very good considering how bad it had looked
earlier. I went on. Despite the fact the weather had cleared, despite the
fact

I've done Capitol a few times before this hike, I felt a little feeling
of discomfort. The devil on one shoulder was cheering me on happily,
while the angel on the other shoulder began to be "disapproving",
because, well, do angels throw lighting right away? About halfway
across the knife edge I paused again.

I thought about the "line in the
sand" but basically decided I had already crossed it and kept going.
The weather seemed ok, and it seemed like everyone who was coming
down that day had already come down. Helmet stayed on. (of course)
When I passed the ledge section, the summit was very close. The sun
came out fully again, it had been off and on past k2, but again,
besides some light snow early in the day, the weather was not too
bad. I arrived at the summit just after 4 pm.

The surrounding views
were pretty awesome, however the uneasy feeling had not gone away.
4 pm is a late time to be on the summit of any 14er, especially big
Capitol. I felt like I would have enough time to downclimb before it got
too dark, plus I knew I had a headlamp and a flashlight as a backup,
in addition to my phone's flashlight.

The way down any mountain is said to usually be more dangerous, vs going up. This is so true, but I
would not realize the extent of this for some time.

The clouds slowly

rolled back in on my decent. The snow returned. This time it was
much wetter, and much heavier than any of the snow at any point
during the day. Right after the ledge section I stopped. After a few
minutes, nothing had changed.

My little angel on the one shoulder
had abandoned ship, and to add insult to injury the little devil had left
me too. I was the loneliest person in the state. Just after these pictures
were snapped I put my phone away in my pack. I remember thinking
that I had just made the stupidest decision of my life, and there
should be some record of it. I assumed they would take the phone off
my body, after I slipped and fell somewhere on the route ahead. At
this point I was totally convinced that I was going to die. I had let
summit fever overcome my better judgment. I called my friend who I
had come with, he had been out climbing that

day too, but on a
different mountain, Castle Peak. As I told him of my situation, he told me my only
option was to go down. Be careful he said, but get going. I had been
on the move at 3 am that day, but his words woke me up. I resolved
that I would give it the best shot I had, at this point I felt totally free, I
had nothing at all to lose.

As soon as I hung up with him, I heard and saw massive rockfall just past the ledge area, where I just came from.

My only real emotion was not what I
thought it might be. Instead of fear I felt a white hot anger surging
through my body. "How could you be so STUPID!??!" I asked myself
more than once as I went down. I could have done Castle Peak with my friend...
As I reached the start of the ridge proper, at the top of the "death
gully" area, the 1st miracle happened. The snow stopped. I felt like the
mountain was basically saying, here you go, you can have a
chance. As the snow started to stop, I looked over and could see the
shadow of Capitol and the sun silouting it along the horizon. Truly a sight I'll never
forget. "triangular mountain shadows". I had to look up the proper definition.

I was reminded of that hospital part in the first "Death Wish"
movie. For you younger readers, movie viewers, what a classic. They
don't make them like they used to. When I reached the knife edge, I
stopped and took out my spare layer in my pack, and used it to dry off
my shoes the best I could. Crossing was not a issue at all. The sun
was just getting ready to start setting as I recrossed the knife edge,
however no one was there livestream me or anything. The perfect
shot that was never captured on film, but as with the mountain
shadow and the snow, it's certainly a experience Il never forget.
Before I knew it I was back to "safety" on k2. Before I lost cell service
I texted and called a few people who knew I was out climbing. I let
them know I was back off k2, and home free. I was away from the "big
sheer drops" that are along the whole route, back into "easy".

Darkness fell. Somewhere before the saddle in the basin, in that long
miserable talus field, it happened, the 2nd miracle. A huge rock, about
the size of a coffee table, which seemed stable shifted as I walked
across it. I fell face first onto some rocks below hard enough that I did
not get up right away. I felt blood on my face from somewhere as I
finally did get up. For some reason, (the miracle) I never took my
helmet off when I got to k2. I just plowed on wards. I'm very convinced
that with how hard I fell, where I fell, (no cell service), the time of day, I
could have easily died right there. Somehow my headlamp just turned
off and fell off right by my face, and not into oblivion somewhere in
the talus. There was about a 30 second pause until I reached out
and turned my headlamp on again. Any sort of happiness or
triumph I felt at having sneaked a summit of the hardest 14er in the
state was smacked right out of me. I felt only shame and anger at
myself as I walked back, a little slower than usual.

It was about 11:15 pm when I finally reached the th, and my car.
One of my friends was actually waiting for me there, but he was
asleep. He told me to wake him, (before we met up of course) I did, we
had some celebratory steaks and other various food. He climbed
Castle Peak that day. As we shared food and talked about the days we
both had I felt an overwhelming sense of melancholy.

In the words of
one of my favorite mountaineer authors I thought to myself "You
made a big mistake up there $#@. You just happened to get away
with it." The next morning I was greeted with quite a spectacular
sight, and any doubt about miracles, and all that was erased from my
mind.

“I need climbing as part of my life. I need that stimulus, that
excitement and the natural beauty of the mountains. Every time I’ve
been away on an expedition whether success or occasionally failure
When I get back to England I feel completely rejuvenated, batteries
recharged, ready for anything. So great to just go in and turn the tap
on and have water instead of waiting for hours to melt snow. All these
little luxuries we take for granted in normal life all suddenly become
very real and life itself takes on new meaning until after six months or
a year you need another recharge and you must go away again.”
“If I don't climb, life seems empty. I suppose the problem in the end,
it's addictive, and for some people, it's a fatal addiction.” Alan Rouse, “K2
Triumph and Tragedy.”

Rouse spoke these words in 1986 before
leaving for the summit of K2, the 8,000m K2 in Asia, and never returned alive. Despite my
stupid mistake I lived.

THE END

Glossary of 14er terms
14ering—-To climb, hike, bike, drive, whatever, on a mountain that is
14000 feet in elevation, but not exceeding 15000 feet in elevation. Said
mountain must also be a “official 14er”
Knife Edge—-A rock feature that resembles the blade of a knife,
usually with massive drop offs on either side. Knife Edges are not
exclusive to Capitol Peak, the one there has just become infamous.
Exposure—--The amount of empty space below you when you are
climbing. In other words, how long you will fall if you do fall or slip,
whatever.
Scrambling—-Fancy climbing word for climbing with your hands and
feet, like a ladder. As opposed to just walking up a trail, such peaks
are termed “walk ups” because they do not require climbing.
Rockfall—Rocks coming loose and tumbling down a mountain
Route Finding—Navigating around a mountain without getting lost or
worse. Knonowing where to go, where you have been, etc
Talus—-large rocks, sometimes loose. Often in great numbers and
sections of mountains. Larger than a dinner plate, but smaller than
boulders.
Saddle—Point between mountains, but still high up on a mountain
Traverse—moving about, usually on some sort of rock obstacle that
requires climbing, but not always. Ex “They traversed across the ridge
toward us”. Fancy climbing term to use with friends
Scree–smaller than talus, usually a slip hazard, from pebble size to
dinner plate size. Very dangerous on steep slopes, climbing slopes.
Summit—-the halfway point

Works Cited , Bibliography (don't sue PLEASE!)
14ers.com created and maintained by Bill Middlebrook
K2 Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain, by Ed
Viesturs with David Roberts
Climbing Colorado’s Fourteeners From the Easiest Hikes to the most
Challenging Climbs, by Chris MeeHan
Dawson’s Guide To Colorado's Fourteeners Volume 1 The Northern
Peaks, by Louis W. Dawson ll
A Climbing Guide to Colorado’s Fourteeners by Bornemman and
Lampert. 1st and 3rd editions
Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer
The Ultimate Guide to US Army Survival skills, tactics and techniques
by McCullough, and the Department of the Army
New Testament, Philmont Scout Ranch Cimarron New Mexico
“The Dark Side of Everest” tv documentary
“K2 Triumph and Tragedy” tv documentary
“K2 Fatal Altitude” tv documentary
“Left for Dead on Everest” -Beck Weathers
“Summit Fever” -1996 Brian Bleaseaded tv documentary