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I found this route in the Colorado Mountain Club Snow Climbs guide book. After doing my research I thought this would be a great climb to end the snow climbing season.
From Silverton drive up county road 2 about 11 miles until the road crosses to the east side of the Animas River. There is a place to park if you want to sleep in your car. If you plan on camping there are pull offs along the road before you get to the crossing.
The route up to Burns Gulch is just a jeep road that is immediately on your right after the main road crosses to the east side of the river.
Trailhead
The jeep road was basically a stream in late spring. You very quickly come to a fork where you will go right.
Take the right
Follow the obvious road up into Burns Gulch. Niagara will be visible the whole time so there is no doubt as to where to go. Hike into the top of the basin and then choose your route up Niagara.
I went directly up the slope in the middle
You can start up the couloir on the right, go directly up the slope in the middle, or gain the saddle between Jones and Niagara which is the far left of the picture. Pick a line and go for the summit. The angle was between 35-50 degrees until you reach the summit.
The heart of the San Juans
The panorama from the summit is as good as it gets. After a short break on top of Niagara I began the traverse over to Jones. The north ridge of Niagara presented an interesting climb down. The snow had been blown into a thin crest that was too narrow to walk on top of. Both sides of this snow crest were angled very steeply so I wound up facing the snow and downclimbing until I reached a good place to glissade a few hundred feet.
The climb down Niagara to get to the saddle
I traversed below the exposed rock to get to the saddle. From the saddle the summer route up Jones was almost completely melted out. If you were to climb this route in full snow coverage going directly on top of the ridge looked like the route you would want to take. I was more than happy to take advantage of the conditions and walk up the trail.
The final approach to Jones Peak.
You have multiple options to descend into Burns Gulch from the summit of Jones. You get a good view of Jones coming up from Burns Gulch and from the summit of Niagara. Pick out a descent that looks safe and go for it.
Looking at Jones from Niagara. There are plenty of descent options to get down Jones.
The hike back to the trailhead is as easy as it gets. Other than some postholing in snow that had been warmed by the sun I had no issues. It was a perfect cherry on top of an awesome snow season.
Back at the trailhead.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
it's just getting started! Shaded northern aspects aren't even good yet. Keep at it!
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