Report Type | Mini |
Peak(s) |
Mt. Bierstadt - 14,066 feet |
Date Posted | 11/18/2024 |
Date Climbed | 10/26/2024 |
Author | mountainboy28 |
Sawtooth Traverse in Late October |
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My friend, Cooper, and I had tossed around the idea of getting one last scramble in the mountains before winter, and we somehow managed to talk ourselves into a snowy attempt of the Sawtooth ridge. We had a good forecast and agreed on a late start on the morning of October 26th. We began our ascent up Mt. Bierstadt around 8 AM and reached the summit around 9:30. The top half of the trail was covered with snow, but it wasn't deep enough to be a huge problem. From the top of Bierstadt, we got a good look at the main challenge for the day. The first half of the Sawtooth, including the entire descent off Bierstadt, was covered with snow, while the second half of the traverse was complete dry. The snow while descending Bierstadt made it super slow and quite sketchy. I didn't keep track of time, but it probably took us 2 hours to reach the low point and midway point in the Sawtooth. What remained in front of us was dry, class 3+ climbing. Cooper stayed super tight to the edge and opted for some technical lines through some sections. I tried to stay pretty tied to the edge too but had to duck off to the right a little in a couple spots to keep the route at class 3. We eventually reached the final, unclimbable wall that reaches the Blue-Sky plateau and realized that we had gone past the cross over to the ledge that exits the Sawtooth. However, we saw a ledge that exited in the same direction, probably like 50 feet or so above the actual ledge. At this point we had probably been on the Sawtooth for close to 4 hours and decided to try and send this ledge off the Sawtooth rather than trying to go back and find the correct route. In hindsight, this was probably not a good idea, but we're pretty decent climbers so it worked out. It turned out that the ledge did successfully exit the Sawtooth, but it required an insanely exposed and sketchy climb. The ledge was extremely narrow and the exposure off our left was intense. It was definitely one of the scarier things that I've done in the mountains, but luckily, Cooper and I were able to exit the ledge and reach the snowy Blue-Sky plateau. We decided to bail on the Mt Blue Sky summit and just took the gully back down to the trailhead. The descent was pretty quick and uneventful, and we finally reached the car around 3 PM. A super long day for the fellas, but all in all, it was a fun adventure and a good climb. I wouldn't recommend doing the Sawtooth in the snow unless you're extremely experienced and have appropriate equipment for it. Cooper and I did it in trail runners, and any more snow on the route would have made it way too dangerous for us. ![]() |
Comments or Questions |
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