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LB - West Ridge and Hourglass |
Climbed the West Ridge and Hourglass on 7/30.24. Climbing parter is down to his last couple 14ers, so needed to check the Bear off the list.
Had hail and some rain (about 30 minutes worth) on the hike to Lake Como. Climbing partner and I decided to continue despite trying to schedule this climb around rain to ensure a dry hourglass. There had not been any rain the previous couple of days. Upon arrival at Lake Como (around 7:30pm night before) found very few campers. There was still hail stones in any shaded areas leading to some unease about how conditions would be on the mountain early morning the next day.
Departed camp just after 6am. Two solo parties were ahead of us (well ahead as one was doing the traverse). Ascended the first gully on climbers left basically up against the more solid rock wall. Loose but not too bad going up. Traverse to the hourgalss was smooth and uneventful. We arrived to find a decent patch of snow right at the base of the hourglass and running water coming down as a result of the previous day's rain and hail. It was quite wet and slick across the most of the choke portion. There is a green rope currently that we used very briefly to get through the choke before going climbers left immediately above. We inspected the rope on the way up and watched one party descent using the rope for assistance. Continued to the left option above the anchor and had no problem navigating to the top. Needed to be very focused not to kick down rocks through this section.
We did opt for using the rope for about 20 or so feet through the choke on the descent back through the hourglass. The rock was very wet/slick and it would have been difficult without it. We were very relived to have that section of the climb over with. On the traverse back we incorrectly identify the gully and started down an earlier gully that quickly cliffed out. Had to climb back up and continue another tenth or so of a mile to the right gully. Descending the gully was quite annoying with the loose rock. Lots of little rocks and gravel in my shoes by the time we reached the bottom.
Hike back down Lake Como road is not super pleasant, but made it without getting rained on. Only a few parties heading up that day which was suprising for a holiday weekend. Overall glad to have this one done.
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