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Peak(s)  Storm Peak  -  13,495 feet
"East Storm"  -  13,313 feet
"Proposal Peak"  -  13,339 feet
Emery Peak  -  13,321 feet
Bonita Peak  -  13,286 feet
Date Posted  08/28/2024
Date Climbed   07/07/2024
Author  Boggy B
 Stormbon   

Converting my conditions reports on this to the brief writeup they should have been, for anyone interested in doing this loop or just the fun parts.

Jonny and I decided to go Storm to Bonita, linking the direct Storm to East Storm traverse with the direct Proposal to Emery traverse. I had it on good authority that Storm to East Storm goes, and we knew nothing about Proposal to Emery. We parked at the Gladstone townsite and hiked up the county road towards Velocity Basin, jumping off a ways below the lake to access Storm's NW ridge before the start of difficulties.

Storm Peak NW ridge: This was very cool and much easier than it appears. We stayed mostly ridge proper, with ledges on the east side to bypass some of the junkier knife edges. There are a couple narrow spots, and we encountered a bit of mandatory 4th class in the upper portions, but otherwise it's a pretty cruiser mix of class 2 and easy 3rd scrambling. It is loose, as is typical, and anyway if you're planning to traverse to East Storm it will warm you right up.

22768_01
Storm Peak NW ridge, ski-related trash in foreground
22768_02
Approaching NW ridge crux


Storm to East Storm: We anticipated the extremely exposed, narrow section right off the summit heading east. The difficulty is probably only 3rd class, with bomber rock where it's most needed, but it is attention-getting. The rock in this first small saddle is unstable and best avoided given the consequences. We stayed ridge proper for the remainder of the descent to the saddle (top of the Grande Couloir), which is no harder than 3rd class but incredibly loose, take-turns terrain not well suited for a party of more than one.

From the saddle we climbed over the first bump on the ridge, which was a mistake as the descent of the other side we eventually committed to forced a couple ugly 5th class moves to get off it, probably the hardest (down)climbing of the day, and totally unnecessary. Skip it.

From the base of East Storm's west ridge we followed junky ledges east to an obvious gully weakness that required some funnish 4th class moves to access. This broad gully cuts back towards the west ridge, but instead of trending left we rambled straight up broken class 2+ slabs and followed another ramp to the right, around a corner, and into a narrowing slot (GPS confusion here) leading to steep grass just below the summit.

Our route is more properly the southwest face, although it does not stray too far from the ridge. The trashy prow at the butt of the west ridge looks cruxy, but we thought the rest should go directly at easy 5th class.

22768_03
Upper E ridge of Storm, exposure crux of the day
22768_04
Ultra chossy end of Storm's E ridge
22768_05
4th class entrance to SW gully on East Storm
22768_06
Exit slot on East Storm's upper SW face


East Storm to Proposal: After weaving through the immediate choss towers we followed the long northeast ridge, picked up a trail briefly, then dropped to the East Storm-Proposal saddle and slogged up the 800-foot talus mound that serves as Proposal's south ridge. This sucks, and there's probably a better way (it's actually not the first time I've done it, so shame on me).

Proposal to Emery: The ridge direct goes at 4th class with a good deal of exposure and some sketchy narrows. Except for the initial short headwall right off the Proposal summit, all the difficult parts were descending, so this is probably best traversed north-south instead. The crux is an east-leaning mess of a fin that we ended up bypassing on the east side by downclimbing the face to a prominent V-slot and awkward ramp (4th class), but it likely goes at the same difficulty by more solid lichen-covered rock on the west side.

22768_07
Main part of Proposal-Emery ridge
22768_08
Initial spice, easy up but exposed down


Emery to Bonita: I've always used the standard gully to bypass the notch, so we did that first, but to satisfy my curiosity we had a look afterwards. Finding it reasonable, we climbed directly back up the 4th class headwall towards Emery and then took a second lap down the bypass gully and continued on to Bonita.

22768_09
Notch on Emery


We descended Bonita's west slopes to CR 51 and from there followed a long-abandoned mining road I'd mapped out with LiDAR back down to the graded dirt of Cement Creek. For parties wanting to move faster it's best to take CR 51 down to Gladstone.

Note the random doglegs off the ridge to Proposal were me trying to wrangle some water from a stingy few snowbanks.


My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9


Comments or Questions
Kylie
User
Initial Spice
12/15/2024 3:48pm
One thing I've learned since becoming a SAHM is that the spice level referred to in romance novel reviews is not the same kind of spice as in TRs ;)
Still surprised this traverse goes... It looked impossible when we were there for the snow climb. One of my favorite spots in the sjs! Exposure in the crux photo is the real deal!


Boggy B
User
Spice Level
12/18/2024 2:43pm
Thai Hot


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