Peak L “the Necklace”– Northeast Ridge

Climb date – August 15, 2024

Members – Solo

Stats – 24.68 miles, 6,447 feet of elevation from Brush Creek Trailhead via Upper Slate Lake according to Strava

Reason for this report

I wanted to post this trip report as it is an alternative route to climb Peak L that is not really documented well on this site. The standard route to climb Peak L is the southwest ridge which includes the famous knife edge and final steep face climb to the summit. Gore Galore, Joe Kramarsic, of this site has a wonderful history on this route and Peak L that I really enjoyed reading here Peak L Trip Report 12/18/2016 | 14ers.com. Most every trip report on this site takes the southwest ridge, so I figured a report on the northeast ridge option could be useful. I hope this is helpful to some in the future if even just using it as a descent option for this magnificent peak.

Background

I live in Eagle so I have the amazing privilege of having the Gore Range as my “backyard” peaks. I can frequently see the peaks in the distance even on local mountain bike rides from my home. I have slowly, since moving to Eagle 9 years ago, taken routine trips into the Gore picking away at the wonderful list of peaks in the range. Last year I had the amazing opportunity to hunt goats in the range and spent 6-7 days chasing goats all over the west side of the range ultimately getting one practically right in knee knocker pass. During these outings I climbed Peak C (after getting the goat) and Peak G, which left Peak L as the last major obstacle to complete the ranked 13ers in the Gore.

I had been to upper slate lake once before on a west to east side adventure starting at pitkin lake trailhead, climbing through might pass near West Partner, then ascending and traversing QRST before heading out to brush creek trailhead using a car shuttle with a few local friends on a big day. Jorts on this website wrote a report of that day that can be seen here Peak Q Trip Report 09/23/2021 | 14ers.com. On this trip Peak L is just such a beautiful peak across the valley, so I had always wanted to get back in there to climb it but as people who have been into upper slate lake basin can testify - it is not an easy trip.

Finally, after a few years of hoping to get back into this beautiful place the stars seemed to align for a free day and a good forecast of 10% chance of afternoon thunderstorms despite being in a recent solid monsoon pattern in the high country. When climbing QRST I thought L looked easier from the northeast ridge compared to the standard southwest ridge from afar and it looked like grass could be used from upper Slate Lake all the way to the saddle between Peak L and Gore thumb. With my wife and kids, I try to limit my exposure to steep fourth class terrain if possible and often opt to take easier/safer routes up peaks if possible. So, I was very interested in this north approach to the summit block as it seemed like it would be less exposed from viewing it from afar.

I have the fortune through my buddy, Jorts, to have my hands on one of Gore Galore's Gore Range guidebooks and he mentions the northeast ridge as class 3. However, I could not find any information of people using it as their main ascent of the peak. I reached out to Gore Galore asking his recollection of this route and he assured me the grassy slopes to the saddle of Gore Thumb and L was simple enough and the climb of the northeast ridge looks daunting but can be kept at class 3. So, with this information in hand I planned to climb this route. Many people seem to descend peak L’s summit block by this ridge to go on to MNO but I had not seen any information of the ascent to the saddle, so I greatly appreciate Joe’s insight for the route.

I know the standard route of Peak L is a highly regarded scramble and most will still want to do the southwest ridge but I do think the northeast ridge is much less exposed, so some may prefer it to climb this beautiful peak by this route. If peak L is the only objective an ascent of the southwest ridge and a descent of the northeast ridge using the grassy slopes between Gore Thumb and L to get back to the lake could as Roach says make a “grand tour” of Peak L.

The Climb

I’m fortunate that my in laws have a home in Frisco so I set out the evening before after helping get the boys to bed and slept in Frisco. On the drive up to Frisco the Gore were getting hammered by an impressive thunderstorm. I was a bit nervous about brush creek road in my Jeep Renegade Trailhawk. It has been a great car for me, but it is not a usual Jeep in terms of its 4x4 capabilities especially if a road was slippery.

I woke up at 3:30AM and made the drive to the road. It was slick and very potholed in some spots. About half a mile up, the road really steps up and become impassible for a vehicle like mine but an alternative road to the right bypasses this tricky section. I was fortunate to get by this spot as otherwise this day may have ended very early. The rest of the road was slick and a bit exciting, but I fortunately made it to the trailhead no worse for the wear.

There were no cars in the trailhead and the climb was on a Thursday, so I knew I was likely in for a very secluded and quite day. I took off at 5AM with headlamp up the brush creek trail with rain pants on getting soaked in the tall grass from the previous days rain. You are on the brush creek trail only a short time until you hit the Gore Range trail and turn left. You follow this all the way to the obviously marked slate lake trail and turn right to begin the ascent up into the upper basin.

At the lower slate lake trail, I started hearing elk calls and bugling about 7AM. As a hunter this always gets me very excited as elk are my favorite creature in the world. I wondered if I would see them and sure enough about a half mile up the trail I ran into the herd. I ultimately saw about 4 rag bulls and many cows but never saw the big herd bull as he was higher up the hill. After this wonderful encounter I continued up the trail to upper slate lake which you reach just about 10 miles into the outing. The trail is very nice, and I was able to maintain about 3 mph to the lake on the hike in.

From the lake, Peak L is obvious, and I worked my way to the west side of the lake and then bushwacked across the creek and started my ascent up to the Peak L-Gore Thumb saddle. There is some bushwacking to get across the stream and up onto the talus and grass above the lake. There are several ways one could ascend to the saddle and there is some talus, but it is mostly a grassy ascent all the way to the saddle and then even slightly up on the northeast ridge. I got a bit too far right on the ascent for easiest passage and corrected this on the decent. If using the GPX attached to this report, the easiest route would be using the climbers left ascent route. Either way, I was on grass to nearly 13,000ft on this route. The towers of Gore Thumb were impressive from near the upper part of the ascent.

I crested the saddle and was surprised to see storm clouds and rain to the north and east considering the 10% rain forecast. I could tell this rain was heading my way despite it being earlier then 10 AM so I quickly engaged the northeast ridge which is mostly made up of large blocky steps that you can weave over and through. I felt I encountered a few unexposed class 4 moves but mostly the ridge was class 3 and felt very secure with minimal overall exposure. The scramble steepens just before the top and abruptly the spectacular and tiny summit revealed itself. From there I just had to walk a short distance on the beautiful summit ridge to the high point which is an exhilarating spot. I summited nearly right at 10 AM making for a 5-hour trip from the trailhead.

By this time, it was clear the rain clouds were coming my way. I had contemplated trying for N but also was not certain I wanted the exposure of the traverse solo. Therefore, the approaching rain made it a very easy decision to save N for a separate Gore outing to finish the ranked 13ers in the range for me. Fortunately, there is nothing ever wrong with another day in the Gore! I quickly retreated down the northeast ridge blocky scramble and then the grassy slopes towards the lake with the rain getting closer. I ultimately just made it to the trees around the lake before some grapple and rain fell. No lightening came out of this early storm, and it passed quickly. It was fun seeing moody clouds swirl around Peak Q up the valley as the storm blew through. After the rain passed, I decided to circumnavigate the lake as I am not certain if or when I will go back into upper slate lake basin and wanted to really soak the place in since it is so special. I would not really recommend this if you were going for speed or ease as it is much harder bush whack without the climber's trail on the other side of the lake, but it was great to make a loop around the lake with such beautiful views if you have the time.

After lunch at the lake, I decided to start the trek home. Previously when we did QRST I completely missed lower slate lake on the run out. You don't see it directly from the trail and have to cross the creek and climb 10 feet up to see down on the lake. I made a point to cross the stream and enjoy the view this time. There are some wonderful camp sites just above lower slate lake. After enjoying this classic Gore view, I finished the trek out to the brush creek trailhead. I saw my first soul of the day at about mile 19 right when I got to the Gore range trail and did not see another individual the entire day. On the drive out I spotted a bear on the lower road and enjoyed watching him for about 10 minutes before making the drive home to the family satisfied with an incredible day on an incredible peak. The northeast ridge may not be as classic of a scramble as the southwest ridge, but it was a great day on a great peak none the less!

I am so blessed to have the Gore as my backyard peaks! God is good! I love you Kim, Bryce, and Nolan! Again, if using the GPX I attached to this report for the ascent to the Peak L/Gore thumb saddle use the climbers left line for easiest passage to the saddle