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Peak(s)  "Peak R"  -  13,000 feet
Date Posted  08/21/2024
Date Climbed   08/20/2024
Author  SnowAlien
Additional Members   Grizzly Adams
 R via Pitkin creek   

My fourth time up the Pitkin creek and finally got to camp by the Pitkin lake, which was a treat. Mosquitos are still there, especially by the water, but not too bad. There was also a pack of 10 white goats, including 2 baby goats that hanged out by our tent, just as habituated as their brethren in Chicago Basin.

Pack in and out of Pitkin wasn't bad at all - a great trail, still plenty of wildflowers and berries along the trail. But getting from Pitkin to Peak R and back was a real chore and took most of the day.

I went up and over Mighty pass, which was steep and loose, while Shawn took the Thumb pass (which we ascended on the return, which was even steeper and loser). Descent on the other side of the pass wasn't fun with plenty of loose boulders (we found a better option on the way back).

From the saddle with Q, we descended down to about 12,400ft, then took an upper grassy ramp. It was fun except in one spot it pinches down to a foot. It was exciting enough that we did the standard route on the way down and back up to the saddle with Q. Found a good slabby ramp to approach the Mighty pass, but the descent on giant boulders back to Pitkin lake was a bit much on the knees.

Either Slate lake or Pitkin approach - getting to Peak R is not easy no matter the route.




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
Wentzl
User
Thanks
8/21/2024 8:49pm
lived here forever, never even heard of Peak R.

This is why I keep checking in on 14ers


Chicago Transplant
User
Nice Work
8/22/2024 3:42pm
I did this general approach for Peak S after missing it from Slate on an alphabet soup trip (JKLPQR). We actually were lower and went via the Graduation Point/East Partner saddle, that is even worse than Mighty if you can imagine it lol. Saw that same goat family on the way up West Partner Saturday!


SnowAlien
User
Groundhog day
8/23/2024 5:00pm
Erik and I missed on R when we did the Slate Creek sweep couple years back in pre-Lidar days. Now I cannot decide which approach I liked less - Slate Creek or via Partners ridge. Both are brutal.

CT - we went back over the lower saddle, Grizzly Adams convinced me it will be shorter that way. I just didn't know what it's called, there's a rock sticking out like a giant thumb. It was definitely steeper than Might pass, vertical dirt.


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