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Report Type 
Mini
Peak(s)  "Fancy Peak"  -  13,176 feet
Unnamed 13786  -  13,786 feet
Date Posted  08/01/2024
Date Climbed   08/01/2024
Author  DrSluice
 Fancy to Un 786 Ridge Traverse   

The Ridge between "Fancy Peak" and Unnamed 13,786' goes at class 3 with some moderate routfinding and exposure. I couldnt find any beta on this so here it is! Whiteny Peak could definitely be added to this route if you needed all three.


22670_01

The ridge has several prominent towers. A couple of them you can traverse on the east side, some you can go straight over, one small one goes on the west side. The route finding isnt bad if youre pretty used to this kind of terrain. Most of the towers had a shear cliff on one side and a nice "lord of the rings" trail on the other so its usually a no brainer figuring out which side you want to be on.


22670_02
Theres a nice grassy ledge that climbs east around this first tower, EZ PZ. (though there are some class III moves near the top)


22670_03
Slight left and up and over this tower


22670_04
Left down and around this steep spire, the east side is a cliff.


22670_05
Downclimb class 3 stuff off this tower, then traverse on the east side below the next tower. Eventually youll want to get back on the ridge proper cause its almost through the crux but there are climb-down-and-around options too to avoid some exposed sections.

Only about a third of the traverse is class 3 with exposure the rest is very easy, just walking on talus. I was glad to hit these two peaks this way as other trip reports show people climbing WAY back down into the valley and back up again.


My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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