7/24/24
Coxcomb Peak (13,663) and Redcliff (13,648)
9.8 miles and approximately 4000 feet of gain

The beginning of this climb actually starts last year. An aborted attempt of Jagged last August with a guide left a bit of a problem. We had a credit left over due to the climb being cut short. After running through some options and throwing out various tough climbs in the San Juans as ideas we finally settled on Coxcomb. A peak I had never really given all that much thought since I figured it was above my ability and I had other climbing priorities (like finishing the Centennials). On the other hand Coxcomb is a day trip and the money for a 2:1 guide trip worked out with our credit. Because we were already going to be up there I asked if we could add on Redcliff as well (weather permitting of course). They agreed and we had a plan.

The drive down to the Wetterhorn Basin trailhead from Denver was filled with horrible haze from fires. Visibility was fairly terrible the whole drive and I had no idea how any of this was going to go. Nearing the trailhead after the long drive up Owl Creek Pass the air quality seemed to be a little better in the San Juans than it had been for most of the drive. The stream crossing near the end of the road wasn't nearly as bad as I remembered and the water was low. My partner and I arrived around dinner time and our guide showed up a little bit later.

San Juan Mountain Guides had given us Kurt Blair for this climb. Kurt turned out to be more experienced than I can really comprehend. The man has done everything. Everything except Redcliff apparently. After he arrived Kurt ran us through a quick gear check and we all agreed on a start time for the next morning. I made a deal with Kurt that I would carry a rope if he carried my last Roger Linfield register that'd been sitting in the house waiting for a good summit. Roger was known for placing registers all over the state and I've signed a number of them. After he died a bunch of people ended up with his remaining registers and have been placing them on various peaks.

We all woke up around 5am and after a quick breakfast of bagels and various caffeine options (which included me drinking both coffee and Mt Dew at the same time) we got going right at 6am. The first few miles of the trail are relatively flat until you start nearing the end of the valley and have to climb steadily to reach a saddle. Also the valley is full of cows.

As we ascended Kurt gave us a wildflower lesson. Most of which I still won't remember (terrible at flowers) but fun anyway. At the saddle we had a snack and Kurt told us that he wanted to descend on the trail for a while instead of trying to immediately traverse over to Coxcomb as he had done the previous time he was here. The terrain did indeed look nasty to sidehill and we instead dropped a few hundred feet on the trail before it started heading more in the direction of Coxcomb.

Once we got a better view of Coxcomb and the grassy slopes that looked much better to ascend we left the trail. The next 1000 feet or so was actually fairly pleasant as we made steady upward progress. Even with the haze and slightly bad air quality my asthma was behaving (thanks new medicine) and I felt good. Eventually we arrived at the more exciting part of the day and got a view of the first Class 5 pitch.

The ropes came out. Harnesses went on. Kurt explained how this was going to go. I tried to remember how to do all of this. I feel like every time I do a climb like this it's been so long that I've partially forgotten what I'm supposed to be doing. Kurt was patient though and we all got started. First pitch he was going to belay us up one at a time. The crack looked very awkward from below but we watched Kurt make it up without all that much trouble. After he got set at the anchor we decided that I'd climb up first and my partner would follow.

I somewhat awkwardly and without a whole lot of grace made it up the crack. Kurt had climbed up to the left after the crack and I took out the cams he had placed before I traversed back to the right on some loose Class 3/4 before reaching him at the anchor. Partner came up next and took the straighter line to the anchor instead.

Next we got to reset and eyeball Pitch 2. Which looked a bit spicier. We switched roles this time about belaying and climbing up first. So this time I got to watch from below as everyone navigated their way up.

Then it was my turn. Climbing last meant I got the pleasure of cleaning the pitch as well. I tried my best not to look down and got up to the first cam. When I tried to remove it I found it was stuck. My foot placements were a bit awkward and as I wiggled and tried to dislodge the cam I was hoping not to fall. This is where I should mention that rope climbing especially outdoors is nothing I've ever been truly comfortable with no matter how it's done. I know the gear should be fine. I know my belayer is good. Still the adrenaline kicks in and I get a little scared. Only thing to do is take a deep breath, get the stupid cam out, and keep going. Finally I got the thing unstuck and finished the pitch.

Above pitch 2 the terrain was a little less crazy and Kurt belayed us up simultaneously to the ridge where we finally unroped.

Next up was a walk over to the notch that we had to rappel into before the summit. Kurt got us set up and he rapped down first. I went second. It was short but a little awkward to get into the right position to descend but I finally got there. I got off the rope while the last person came down.

After the notch we had one very exposed move around the corner and then a short scramble back up to the ridge. At this point the summit was a short distance away. The ridge narrowed a bit and it was best not to look down or off to the side too much but we could see the summit cairn and knew we were almost there.

We all took a break on the summit and enjoyed some oatmeal raisin cookies my wife had made. I should mention we were doing this on my 47th birthday as well. One way to spend a birthday! We placed the brand new register that Kurt had kindly carried up and all enjoyed the good weather.

At some point I'd also turned my phone off airplane mode and had service. That led to a barrage of texts from a few friends out of state wishing my happy birthday. In return they got a bunch of photos of what I was currently doing and how I was spending the day. Which probably wasn't quite what they expected.

Weather still being good we kept to the original plan and walked a short distance down to the rappel anchor that went off the north side towards Redcliff. This was going to be a full 60m rappel. Kurt got the ropes set and helped us both get set to rappel ourselves. Double and triple checking everything as we went. Finally he went first over the side. Partner went next. And I was left to sit alone at the anchor contemplating my life choices and examining my rappel setup over and over. It only lasted a few minutes but sitting alone up there was definitely an experience. Knowing there's no easy way down and your partners are below you and can't really help.

Finally off the ropes for good we all relaxed and got ready to wander over to Redcliff. At this point the hard stuff was mostly done. The descent would prove to have a little difficulty but nothing compared to what we'd already done. It was nice to be on the grassy saddle between the two peaks and marvel at the view of what we'd climbed.

We found a bit of a trail heading up Redcliff and all took slightly different lines. All of it was no big deal though and we found ourselves atop Redcliff in short order. No register here either. Apparently I should have packed two.

The day was getting long so after a short summit stay we started back down. Kurt decided that our first descent option from the saddle looked awful so we traversed back closer to Coxcomb to head down. It was still full of loose dirt and scree but we made steady progress down. We hugged a rock wall for a bit on some of it to have an easier time but otherwise it went fine. Eventually we found ourselves on easier terrain and made our way back towards the trail through a bunch of wildflowers and streams. Kurt had an app on his phone that would identify wildflowers as well so we actually learned the names of some of them.

Finally back on trail we quickly made our way the 2 remaining miles back to the cars.

Back at the cars we gave Kurt our thanks and our gratitude for a great day. It was really awesome to be with such a confident and professional guide. He taught us a lot (or at least made a great effort at it) and made the day very entertaining. There were a lot more dad jokes than I can remember and he had some great stories to tell. I'd highly recommend him as a guide if you ever need one. Maybe I'll even remember some of what he taught this time.

Overall just a great day on two peaks that hadn't been high on the priority list before but turned out to be awesome and challenging in a good way. Only saw one other person nearby all day (given that it was a Wednesday probably not surprising). Also great to have good weather. I imagine doing either of these in bad weather would be absolutely terrible.

And as a metaphor for life: No danglers. Take that as you will.