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Peak(s)  Little Bear Peak  -  14,041 feet
Date Posted  04/22/2024
Date Climbed   04/21/2024
Author  treefrog2005
 Little Bear in Winter/Spring conditions   

Climbed to ~13,300' (base of the Hourglass) yesterday on snow. There are several trade-offs when climbing this peak in winter or spring conditions that people may want to be aware of. Here's what my partner and I did:

Day 1: Drove to the San Luis Valley, then drove up the Lake Como Road to just below 10K', which was completely snow-free up to that point. Left the Jeep at 5pm and hiked up to Lake Como. After baking in the sun all day, the snow on the road between 10K-12K was soft and we found snowshoes very helpful. Arrived at the lake around 8pm. Lake was almost completely frozen, except for one liquid patch about the size of a desk. Camped on snow (the little cabin/shed/smoke shack that was there for several years has been removed).

Day 2: Left camp a little late at 6:30. Used snowshoes to the base of the approach gully, then traded them for crampons. Climbing the gully was the most fun we had all day! Great coverage, very supportive snow; no ice. Gully is about 700' of vertical; made it to the top by 8am. We kicked steps and did not blow them out by glissading down them later. We followed the standard route from there to the bottom of the Hourglass, but with it covered in soft snow it took us 4 hours to traverse from the top of the gully to the base of the Hourglass at 13,300'. We did meet McQueen coming down the Hourglass, who told us we should take the path up the left side if we were to continue. Hourglass is about 700' of slightly steeper vertical as well; we turned around at that point. Returning to the top of the approach gully the snow was now even softer. We arrived back at our Lake Como camp around 4:30. Packed up and snowshoed/walked down the road, arriving back at the vehicle right at sunset.

Considerations for future attempts on this route in the winter/spring:

Hiking up the Lake Como Road early in the day when the snow is firm is faster and easier than snowshoeing it later in the day when it is soft.

Melting snow for water at Lake Como camp.

The couloirs on this route are straightforward and fun to climb when they are snow-filled! Only one rock fell while we were in both of them. They are both around 700' tall, and the Hourglass is slightly steeper. We descended both of them facing inward, downclimbing one step at a time. In my opinion they are too steep to glissade, even late in the day with softened snow.

The route connecting the approach gully and the Hourglass is very slow going when covered in trapdoor snow this time of year, but by the time it has melted out (early - mid May), the couloirs probably have as well, so then you're dealing with the usual rockfall.




Comments or Questions
greenonion
User
CR
4/23/2024 8:50am
More of a conditions report than TR, but much appreciated anyway! Thanks!


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