LITTLE BEAR N' I - AUGUST 23rd, 2023

The time comes once again for me to tell a story of my time visiting the Sangre De Cristo Mountains while living in Washington State. I have been an enthusiast for this range for years. Over the course of 2021-2022, I made a point to complete the Crestone Group. Standing atop The Crestone Needle in August of 2022, I looked out towards the Blanca Group. I had yet to explore the Lake Como basin before but was quite familiar with its challenges and logistics it may present. I took the year in Washington State to prepare for whatever challenges I planned on taking on within the basin. My heart was set on Blanca, Ellingwood and Little Bear, but I knew in theory how large of a stretch this would be with me still living out of state. Not impossible, but much tougher than me just packing up from my home in Denver like I used to.

August 2023. I am flying out to Colorado with my Arc'teryx Alpha SL 23 pack on my back. Loaded into the plane full of supplies to help me tackle a peak or two within the Lake Como basin. This time around I had planned on camping at Lake Como to try maximizing my time. I am not much of a fastpack/backpacker, but I am quite versed on what it would take to accomplish and this seemed quite feisable.

I drive down to Lake Como Road after landing in Colorado. Passing the Crestone grouping, floored by what I have worked through from the ground up in this range. I can never pass up an opportunity to drive down Colorado 17 and view the Crestones looming over the valley. It is a high reward and such a treat since I no longer live so close to this range at the given moment.

I pull down Lake Como Road as far as I can without absolutely obliterating the underside of the rental car. This is where my real debating began. Do I just stay put, camp comfortably in the backseat of my car and pull a full day from the bottom like I had prior for the Crestones? I was admittedly nervous about my first camp in my new bivy setup. The Sangres were all familiar, but the Lake Como basin was not. Little Bear was towering above my car in all of its beauty. Within a snap moment, I packed the bag and hopped on my feet heading up Lake Como Road. Why would I pass up the opportunity to spend a night at 12,000ft acclimating under the stars in arguably the most visible place to view the night sky?

Moving along Lake Como Road was not as terrible as planned. Sure, it was steep in areas with lots of unstable and just questionable rock but I had planned for nothing glorious. 5.5 miles of riverbed rock essentially with a 15 lb pack on my back. I had wrenched in my essentials down to weight and what I truly needed. The sun was going down and I was starting to tire. I had run into not a soul at this point. About 4.5 miles into the road, I found a nice flat spot where I was able to prop my Outdoor Research bivy up with close access to the road and a little over a mile left to the lake. I was fully intending on reaching the lake that night but as it grew darker, I found no need since I wouldn't be spending any time outside of my bivy. I was really just looking to save any milage I could. I slept fine. I had no idea why I had really doubted things. My plan was to get up at 4:30am, and be on the move by 5am. The following morning proved just that.

LITTLE BEAR HOURGLASS ASCENT 8.23.23

I woke up promptly at 4:30am. Not a minute later and I was beginning to get ready. I quickly ate, packed a small 12 liter running vest full of my fuel, layers and helmet and was headed up the road at 4:59am. The final mile to Lake Como was very moderate. Short and to the point. I could see the moon glistening off of the lake and the sun beginning the rise behind the ridge traverse between Blanca and Ellingwood. It was immaculate. I then found the cairn turn off for the standard route up Little Bear as I looked up to the summit from below the turnoff. The approaching gully looked slow going and steep, as I had previously read many times before.

The gulley was exactly that! Steep, loose but nothing I had not encountered in the mountains before. Careful footing is especially needed. My trekking poles were essential for making quick progress up the mixed class 2 gulley and even then it took me at least 45 minutes. It was very slow going terrain. But in the midst of my climb I was able to catch some excellent views of the sunrise above Ellingwood and Blanca, as well as look back down towards Lake Como. This area is incredibly special, like all of the Sangres. I could already tell no matter the challenge, I was going to love my climb of Little Bear.

The West ridge is quite straight forward. I stayed slightly below the top as there were many trails connecting to make your way towards the base of the Hourglass. the face of Little Bear is incredible from this perspective. As I was making my way along the ridge, I caught incredible views out towards Alamosa and the San Luis Valley. it really gives you some perspective of how steep and aggressive the Sangres are coming out of the valley. I hold that factor so close and special. I just love the feeling of climbing up from the valley every time I get out into the Sangres no matter how much effort it takes. I made my way long the ridge in roughly 45 minutes and finally found myself at the base of the infamous Hourglass.

I put my scrambling gloves on and began making my way up. I was alone, which I really feel is one if the main reasons I went into this adventure so confidently. I knew the risk of this terrain and did not want a soul above or below me while making my way up. It was perfect to climb this in pure solitude. The Hourglass is made up of mostly polished class four rock, that has varying lines you can choose with the center being the most "direct". This makes for solid, steep climbing. Much better than the approach up the loose gulley leading up to the West ridge. I quickly but carefully made my way up and topped out above the fixed rope system that has been installed in the center of the Hourglass. Out of pure curiosity, I scrambled over to check out the hand lines. Around the end of August, I had found that all ropes installed were in fine shape but I HIGHLY SUGGEST making sure you are confident in navigating this terrain. Never rely on the use of those ropes. It makes for an interesting detail on the climb up Little Bear, but I suggest ensuring you are a very confident climber before considering Little Bear. There are a lot of navigational decisions you have to make based on prior experience in the mountains. This is very far from a beginner or even intermediate adventure.

Needless to say, I made my way up towards the summit block slowly. Avoiding letting any dinner plate sized rocks loose in case anyone happened to be below me. But up to this point, it was still just me. I could now see the hundred or so feet I had til I had reached the summit of Little Bear. My heart was so full. I stayed left towards the summit block and before me appeared the most immaculate summit view I have held yet. I had made it. The summit of LITTLE BEAR PEAK!

I spent roughly 30 minutes atop alone, basking in the Colorado sunshine, attempting to contact a friend in order to share the pure joy I was holding. The vistas were so special. The way the sunlight hits specific areas of the Sangres, with details and shadowing in the right places. I looked across towards the Crestones which I had completed the summer prior and began crying. The Sangres had taught me so much about myself. A solo summit was the only way to share this moment. Regardless, the reward was so high for me. I couldn't believe I had built myself into the being I have become. Little Bear was a challenge on all ends but was one I happily took on with confidence in its results. I began my slow descent down, exhausted yet overjoyed with what I had just accomplished.

The descent is very slow going. Mind you, the terrain is unforgiving and I wasn't willing to sacrifice safety for time. I took the Hourglass slow, and found myself at the base within 45 minutes. The ridge walk was exhausting. The sun was in full effect and I was ready to be back at camp, refueled and hydrated. I found myself at the top of the gulley leading down towards Lake Como and just held on with every step. Poles mitigating as much scree sliding as they could offer. I was down quickly, and safely. I had made it to the cairn turnoff once again. Refilled my running flasks, filtered my FRESH mountain water, and looked back at Little Bear one final time. I chose to stick to Little Bear exclusively. I was slightly low on food and did not want to take chances that might cause for issue. I found camp, grabbed my bag and began the 5.5 mile road walk down to my car in the San Luis Valley summer heat.

Little Bear was everything I wanted and more. A Southern Colorado scramble with solitude, tons of beauty and hard efforts. I always seem to pull something from these climbs. This one just gave me appreciation for life, my strength and the general sense of beauty. Beauty within myself, the world and in relationships. I could carry on forever, but that will come with Blanca and Ellingwood in due time :)