Capitol Peak Trip Report 12/25/2023

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Capitol Peak - 14,138 feet
Date Posted	12/25/2023
Date Climbed	08/22/2023
Author	AKclimbs

Capitol Peak ridge direct - August 2023
Capitol Peak ridge direct — August 22nd 2023 Mileage—17.69 miles Gain—7,430 ft Start time—10:52pm End time—1:13pm Setting up camp: Got to the Capitol Creek trailhead at 5:00pm. Set up my alpine tent in one of the few limited campsites. Out the tent were awesome views of Capitol peak way off in the distance (pic #1 below). Took it easy and set my alarm for 10:15pm. Woke up and drank some water first thing to start the morning. Made sure to eat a full healthy breakfast. Got my gear ready and by 10:52pm I was off and running. The hike: Took the upper Capitol ditch trail which I enjoy way more than the lower Capitol Creek trail. It’s more scenic with the open fields and meadows. Aspen forest that turns gold in the fall. Made the left turn to cross over to the other side of the creek and link up with the Capitol creek trail. Took the creek trail towards Capitol lake. Reached the lake in 1 hour 50 minutes. Filtered water at the lake and went back to the trail split for the Mt Daly saddle. Made easy work of the switchbacks to reach the saddle. At the saddle there are 2 options: the standard loose rock field or the technical class 4 ridge direct. This go around I decided to challenge myself with the ridge direct. Took a right and started up the ridge direct. There was a decent trail going up the middle of the ridge (pic #2). My Black Diamond Storm headlamp had fresh batteries illuminating the ridge ahead. Below me to the left and right was pitch black. Reached some more challenging terrain on the ridge (pic #3). Had to take my time to find the path of least resistance. It got steep and exposed in areas. Reached a jagged and exposed catwalk on the ridge (pic #4). Got more pics on the descent in daylight for reference as well. Above the steep area it flattened out a bit (pic #5). The moves were somewhat challenging but if you have lots of experience with class 4 then it’s not too tough. I just had to be smart and take my time. Got to the “trail” junction where the standard trail links up just below K2. Climbed the class 3 move to the summit of K2. It was still dark on the summit of K2. I could barely see the silouette of Capitol. Dropped down the side of K2. It’s so steep here not a place to mess around. Reached the knife edge, shined my light and took a picture (pic #6). Made easy work of the knife edge. Continued up the ridge as the sun was rising. Aimed for the notch in the ridge (pic #7). Steep drop off to the left. Route finding must be on point! Climbed up the left side of a steep boulder (pic #8). Looked back toward K2 after navigating some ledges and took a picture (pic #9). The summit: After a couple class 3-4 moves, I was at the summit of Capitol Peak (pic #10). Spent all of 10 minutes on the summit. I decided to get ballsy and scope out the Capitol-Snowmass “Satans ridge” traverse as far as I could safely go. Satan’s Ridge: Right away I was greeted with some knife edge/catwalk terrain (pic #11 and #12). Kept going for a few hundred feet until the ridge dropped like a rollercoaster then I stopped. Took a pic from the spot, looking toward Snowmass (pic #13). The exposure on each side was INSANE! Took a picture looking down, with my shoe for reference (pic #14). Went back up to the summit of Capitol peak to take in all of the glory. This one felt extra special. I summited Capitol back in September 2019. But had a failed attempt in July 2022 due to rain/slippery rock. It was disappointing to not make summit that day. So I had a chip on my shoulder this whole time, until the moment I made summit 13 months later. The descent: Started back down the summit ridge. Had some difficulty finding the exact route back down. It’s super steep and being too high or too low could be costly. It is a maze but I took my time and got back down to the knife edge. After crossing the knife edge I turned on my Ray Ban smart glasses to take some pictures of the ridge (pic #15, #16, #17, and #18). ”Wow you must have got an early start”, said a hiker at the base of K2. “Yeah I wanted this one bad haha!” I responded. Then I started up the steep edge of K2 (pic #19). Chilled on the summit of K2 watching the groups cross the knife edge. Got the classic shot of Capitol viewed from K2 (pic #20). Scrambled down the class 3 move and hiked down to the trail split. Rather than turn right to take the time-consuming standard route down, I continued straight for the ridge direct (pic #21). The good thing was it was daylight this time so I could see everything ahead of me. Ridge direct: Stayed on the ridge proper down some class 2 before reaching the narrow section. Stopped at the start of the narrow catwalk section to take some pictures (pic #22 and #23). It was only a couple feet wide in areas with exposure on each side. You could see the standard route below on climber’s right. Had to be careful with rockfall. Focused in on the ridge and tuned out the exposure. Crossed the bump on the ridge and on the other side was an even more exposed catwalk (pic #24). Took a picture from the other side looking back towards K2 and Capitol (pic #25). Showing much of the route. Still had some difficult terrain ahead. A steep drop off in the ridge (pic #26 and #27). As I was approaching it looked like a cliff out. But as I got closer I could see there was a way down.Tried to keep all of my center of gravity as close to the mountain as possible. Made it down the steep rollercoaster part of the ridge and back to safety (pic #28 and #29). Got back down to the outcroppings with trail going around them. Got one last picture of the steep rollercoaster section with Capitol looming (pic #30). Got back to the top of the Mt Daly saddle (pic #31 and #32). It was good to be back on real trail. Hiked down the 900 ft slope of switchbacks. Really great views of Capitol lake (pic #33). Took a left at the bottom to take the short detour to Capitol lake. The water was crystal clear (pic #34). Smoked some cannabis on the shore of the lake. So relaxing. Alright my muscles had time to recover and I was in a good state of mind. So I stood up, adjusted my 1 trekking pole and started the scenic hike back. 6 miles back: This approach is one of my all time favorites. Going in and out of forest and open fields (pic #35, #36, and #37). Great for trail running or just hiking in cruise control. I did a combination of both. Reached the creek crossing back to the ditch trail. The water wasn’t too high so I managed to get across with dry shoes. Took a picture at the junction after joining the ditch trail (pic #38). Amazing views of Capitol from here. Crossed through a giant field (pic #39). The one you can see from the trailhead. After entering the forest again, I reach the wooden sign that says “Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness” (pic #40). Reached the aspen forest where the ditch is on the left of the trail (pic #41 and #42). Once the trail turned right, I knew I was getting close. To my right were views of the peak off in the distance (pic #43). Made it back to the trailhead to cap off another big day on Capitol Peak. 2023 has been an awesome hiking season! Thoughts and opinions: The Capitol Peak ridge direct route from Daly saddle to K2 is highly exposed and technical. I would only recommend if you have a lot of experience with class 4 and exposure. If the weather forecast is questionable or storms are brewing, I would recommend the lower standard route. There are better spots to take cover under the large boulders below K2. I have done both routes and the ridge direct took much quicker. Not having to deal with the never ending loose rock in that nasty boulderfield. Ridge direct is a great way to add some technicality to the climb. I will definitely be back to repeat this awesome route! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Capitol Peak ridge direct - August 2023

Capitol Peak ridge direct — August 22nd 2023

Mileage—17.69 miles

Gain—7,430 ft

Start time—10:52pm

End time—1:13pm

Setting up camp: Got to the Capitol Creek trailhead at 5:00pm. Set up my alpine tent in one of the few limited campsites. Out the tent were awesome views of Capitol peak way off in the distance (pic #1 below). Took it easy and set my alarm for 10:15pm.

Woke up and drank some water first thing to start the morning. Made sure to eat a full healthy breakfast. Got my gear ready and by 10:52pm I was off and running.

The hike: Took the upper Capitol ditch trail which I enjoy way more than the lower Capitol Creek trail. It’s more scenic with the open fields and meadows. Aspen forest that turns gold in the fall.

Made the left turn to cross over to the other side of the creek and link up with the Capitol creek trail. Took the creek trail towards Capitol lake.

Reached the lake in 1 hour 50 minutes. Filtered water at the lake and went back to the trail split for the Mt Daly saddle. Made easy work of the switchbacks to reach the saddle.

At the saddle there are 2 options: the standard loose rock field or the technical class 4 ridge direct. This go around I decided to challenge myself with the ridge direct.

Took a right and started up the ridge direct. There was a decent trail going up the middle of the ridge (pic #2). My Black Diamond Storm headlamp had fresh batteries illuminating the ridge ahead. Below me to the left and right was pitch black.

Reached some more challenging terrain on the ridge (pic #3). Had to take my time to find the path of least resistance. It got steep and exposed in areas. Reached a jagged and exposed catwalk on the ridge (pic #4). Got more pics on the descent in daylight for reference as well. Above the steep area it flattened out a bit (pic #5). The moves were somewhat challenging but if you have lots of experience with class 4 then it’s not too tough. I just had to be smart and take my time.

Got to the “trail” junction where the standard trail links up just below K2. Climbed the class 3 move to the summit of K2. It was still dark on the summit of K2. I could barely see the silouette of Capitol. Dropped down the side of K2. It’s so steep here not a place to mess around.

Reached the knife edge, shined my light and took a picture (pic #6). Made easy work of the knife edge. Continued up the ridge as the sun was rising. Aimed for the notch in the ridge (pic #7). Steep drop off to the left. Route finding must be on point! Climbed up the left side of a steep boulder (pic #8). Looked back toward K2 after navigating some ledges and took a picture (pic #9).

The summit: After a couple class 3-4 moves, I was at the summit of Capitol Peak (pic #10). Spent all of 10 minutes on the summit. I decided to get ballsy and scope out the Capitol-Snowmass “Satans ridge” traverse as far as I could safely go.

Satan’s Ridge: Right away I was greeted with some knife edge/catwalk terrain (pic #11 and #12). Kept going for a few hundred feet until the ridge dropped like a rollercoaster then I stopped. Took a pic from the spot, looking toward Snowmass (pic #13). The exposure on each side was INSANE! Took a picture looking down, with my shoe for reference (pic #14).

Went back up to the summit of Capitol peak to take in all of the glory. This one felt extra special. I summited Capitol back in September 2019. But had a failed attempt in July 2022 due to rain/slippery rock. It was disappointing to not make summit that day. So I had a chip on my shoulder this whole time, until the moment I made summit 13 months later.

The descent: Started back down the summit ridge. Had some difficulty finding the exact route back down. It’s super steep and being too high or too low could be costly. It is a maze but I took my time and got back down to the knife edge. After crossing the knife edge I turned on my Ray Ban smart glasses to take some pictures of the ridge (pic #15, #16, #17, and #18).

”Wow you must have got an early start”, said a hiker at the base of K2. “Yeah I wanted this one bad haha!” I responded. Then I started up the steep edge of K2 (pic #19). Chilled on the summit of K2 watching the groups cross the knife edge. Got the classic shot of Capitol viewed from K2 (pic #20).

Scrambled down the class 3 move and hiked down to the trail split. Rather than turn right to take the time-consuming standard route down, I continued straight for the ridge direct (pic #21). The good thing was it was daylight this time so I could see everything ahead of me.

Ridge direct: Stayed on the ridge proper down some class 2 before reaching the narrow section. Stopped at the start of the narrow catwalk section to take some pictures (pic #22 and #23). It was only a couple feet wide in areas with exposure on each side. You could see the standard route below on climber’s right. Had to be careful with rockfall.

Focused in on the ridge and tuned out the exposure. Crossed the bump on the ridge and on the other side was an even more exposed catwalk (pic #24). Took a picture from the other side looking back towards K2 and Capitol (pic #25). Showing much of the route.

Still had some difficult terrain ahead. A steep drop off in the ridge (pic #26 and #27). As I was approaching it looked like a cliff out. But as I got closer I could see there was a way down.Tried to keep all of my center of gravity as close to the mountain as possible.

Made it down the steep rollercoaster part of the ridge and back to safety (pic #28 and #29). Got back down to the outcroppings with trail going around them. Got one last picture of the steep rollercoaster section with Capitol looming (pic #30).

Got back to the top of the Mt Daly saddle (pic #31 and #32). It was good to be back on real trail. Hiked down the 900 ft slope of switchbacks. Really great views of Capitol lake (pic #33).

Took a left at the bottom to take the short detour to Capitol lake. The water was crystal clear (pic #34). Smoked some cannabis on the shore of the lake. So relaxing.

Alright my muscles had time to recover and I was in a good state of mind. So I stood up, adjusted my 1 trekking pole and started the scenic hike back.

6 miles back: This approach is one of my all time favorites. Going in and out of forest and open fields (pic #35, #36, and #37). Great for trail running or just hiking in cruise control. I did a combination of both.

Reached the creek crossing back to the ditch trail. The water wasn’t too high so I managed to get across with dry shoes. Took a picture at the junction after joining the ditch trail (pic #38). Amazing views of Capitol from here.

Crossed through a giant field (pic #39). The one you can see from the trailhead. After entering the forest again, I reach the wooden sign that says “Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness” (pic #40).

Reached the aspen forest where the ditch is on the left of the trail (pic #41 and #42). Once the trail turned right, I knew I was getting close. To my right were views of the peak off in the distance (pic #43). Made it back to the trailhead to cap off another big day on Capitol Peak. 2023 has been an awesome hiking season!

Thoughts and opinions: The Capitol Peak ridge direct route from Daly saddle to K2 is highly exposed and technical. I would only recommend if you have a lot of experience with class 4 and exposure. If the weather forecast is questionable or storms are brewing, I would recommend the lower standard route. There are better spots to take cover under the large boulders below K2. I have done both routes and the ridge direct took much quicker. Not having to deal with the never ending loose rock in that nasty boulderfield. Ridge direct is a great way to add some technicality to the climb. I will definitely be back to repeat this awesome route!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Ericsheffey	Great report! 12/25/2023 2:27am And nice photos!
Gandalf69	Awesome! 12/25/2023 7:53am I love how you repeated Capitol and took the ridge direct way to change it up. Many people only do 14ers to "check off their list". I've done big Capitol 7 times successfully, but like you I enjoy the challenge, and it's a very scenic valley. The whole notion of "been there, done that one" is very depressing to me, because if you haven't done a specific route, you have been there, but haven't done it completely. Each of the 7 summits I've logged in Capitol has been a completely different experience, and when people ask about repeating it I say "because it's fun". (and it's there! great pictures and report!)
Marmot72	wow 2/19/2024 8:44pm I love the ridge direct; I only did it once, ascending. I can't imagine doing it at night - that would feel spooky to me. My friend on that section was a skilled technical climber (which I am not), but he lagged behind me a great deal, because of his fear of the loose rock. By Elk standards, it's bomber, but his perspective gave me pause. Sweet that you got to repeat it on the way down, with the views all around, instead of just the shadows from the headlamp.

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