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Peak(s)  Beattie Peak  -  13,351 feet
Unnamed 13302  -  13,302 feet
Date Posted  10/23/2023
Date Climbed   10/21/2023
Author  WildWanderer
 From Bandora Mine   

Beattie Peak – 13,351 and PT 13,302


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RT Length: 6.87 miles

Elevation Gain: 2945’


I made it to the Bandora Mine the day before, and spent the day scouting potential routes.


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In the evening I did a little catch and release fishing, the beavers came out of their lodges, and I saw one tail flip a coyote who got too close.


Beaver and Coyote:



Then a bull moose came strolling around, and I went to bed. I was on the trail at 6:30am the next morning. I took the trail to Lake Hope, which started just to the south of the parking area.


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I took this class 1 trail southwest for about .8 miles.


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At around 11160’ of elevation I left the trail, and turned right. If you get to the Big Three Mine you’ve gone too far. I placed a cairn here, and headed north.


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I bushwhacked north up the mountainside to treeline


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I was headed here, which included some willow navigation. I found if I stayed high I could follow game trails.


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Once I could see this ridge I turned left and headed northeast to a basin


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I kept heading northeast, as the tundra changed over to talus


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Now in the upper basin, I aimed for the Beattie/Fuller Saddle.


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I stayed to the left of the snow, and found the talus was surprisingly stable.


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Once at the saddle, I turned left and followed the class 2 ridge to Beattie Peak


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I summited Beattie Peak at 8:45am


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Beattie Peak:


I could see PT 13302 to the southwest.


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Now is a good time to put your helmet on. This is a class 3 ridge, but starts out as class 2. This is the overall route I took to get there, taking the ridge to a gully.


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The initial descent of the ridge is class 2


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But quickly becomes narrow, sustained class 3 with exposure. The ridge proper goes at class 3, but twice I dipped down to the left to avoid the exposure involved. Here are some pictures of the ridge


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I was now at the base of the gully. Microspikes helped here.


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This is the route I took


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And some pictures of the gully


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At the top of the gully I went right


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And then I could see the final approach to the summit


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This is the overall route I took to the summit


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There were two summit cairns, each about 15 feet apart. They looked to be of equal height.


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I summited PT 13302 at 10am


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PT 13302:


I know the traditional way to descend from PT 13302 is to head southwest and down to the V9/PT 13302 saddle, but I’d been there the day before, and did not want to descend that way. Instead, I headed southwest towards a small saddle, then turned left and scree-surfed south.


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This route brought me back to the Lake Hope Trail.

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Here’s looking up at the route I scree-surfed down


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Back on the Lake Hope trail, I followed it east back to Bandora Mine

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I made it back to Bandora Mine at 11:45am, making this a 6.87 mile hike with 2945’ of elevation gain in 5 hours, 15 minutes.


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On to the next trailhead!




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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