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Peak(s)  Trinity Peak  -  13,816 feet
"West Trinity"  -  13,765 feet
"East Trinity"  -  13,752 feet
Vestal Peak  -  13,867 feet
Arrow Peak  -  13,817 feet
"The Kurzhorn"  -  13,199 feet
Date Posted  09/16/2023
Date Climbed   09/09/2023
Author  Slawson405
 Long Day in the Wemi   

I've been trying to get the centennials finished this year, and with the changing weather, and changing work flexibility I started to feel the urgency. A few weeks ago I had a couple days off and decided to climb Jagged as a solo day trip. A long day, but I surprised myself with the relaxed fashion I was able to complete it, even after a 17 hour day. After a couple weeks indulging on the PNW coast, I still needed Arrow, Vestal, and Middle Trinity to complete my Lidar list. I originally wanted to do this hike with another group of climbers, but with September rolling on, I got nervous on future weather windows and decided to go for it.

22338_01
Vestal and Arrow from 11.400

My friend volunteered to go with me while drinking one night, I thought he was kidding. But he wasn't. His first 14er was Sneffels, which we went up in March and Skied Lavender with me. His first 2 13ers would be Arrow and Vestal, as a day trip. I made sure he knew what he was getting into and he still agreed. The plan would be for myself, him, and my dog to all go up Arrow and Vestal. That way I knew he knew the route, had a GPX, and knew he was comfortable going down to the lake, where they would wait for me while I competed the Trinities.

We drove to Molas Pass and camped, and woke up at 2 to get ready for the long day. We drove the short distance to the trailhead from camp and set out around 3. The initial drop into the Animas is demoralizing, as I know I'll be trudging up that, tired, in the next 18-20 hours. But it goes quick as we're jogging much of it. We did the approach in the dark both ways, we never saw the Animas in daylight. Elk creek trail is steep, and tedious, as you'd expect. Similar to Sunlight creek. The biggest reason I wanted to day trip this is because I still have PTSD from Ruby Creek Basin, and humping my backpack up and over 1,000 downfall trees and a tapered, sometimes non-existent trail. I feel I'm more efficient at day trips than backpacks.

We reached the camping area at 11,400 around 7, just as it was starting to get light out. I made a mistake and did not realize this would be my last water opportunity until the lake after downclimbing east Trinity. If you are doing all 5 in sequence, I would recommend taking the 20 minutes to go to Vestal Lake after Arrow, and before climbing Vestal. Live and learn. We headed up to the base of Arrow just as the sun first hit us. The ramp is obvious, at the top of a talus pile, next to a cliff band above the green ramp. We met another party here, who also had someone finishing the centennials on Trinity, as a day trip. Small world. They cruised past us on the scramble as my partner and I aided my dog up with his rope and harness. Arrow has some fun blocky scrambling towards the top, and allows you to pick one of several routes up. There are 2 gully's intersected by an ascending cliff band that we danced in and out of, before poking to the right, and ascending a blocky rib above the gully.

22338_08
WHAM
22338_07
Moby and Parker on Arrow

We reached the top of Arrow around 915, and really enjoyed the scramble and the view we were rewarded with after. I was originally planning to climb Wham as well, but decided against it mainly to not split our group too soon, and concerns about timing as this is a day trip. No matter, I'll be back for Wham. It plays a Siren Song on you all day. We descended Arrow and it's steep calf burning ramps, and ducked to the right toward Vestal at around 12,200. This is where I would suggest water refill and Vestal Lake. We worked our way up the valley/rock glacier in between the two mountains, and came to the base of the shit covered slope heading up to the saddle. It's gross, and I've seen some nasty scree slopes. We elected to go right, in which there is a trail you can't see at first, which eventually peters out under the kitty litter. It sucks, but it's the way up. Once on the saddle we traversed Vestal to the large Gully near the South Face. The main gully is a shooting gallery, stay out of that, and above and to the left on blocky steps with kitty litter lead you up. Where Wham captivates and calls you to its massive sweep of solid quartzite, Vestal's south face is a crumbling façade of rotten rock. It's truly awful. After following the ledges and blocks up, you'll find a small saddle and walk to the summit of Vestal at 1145.


22338_02
Arrow from Vestal

15 minutes earlier, struggling on Vestal's slopes I was a bit fatigued, but not mentally. I knew once I saw Middle Trinity I'd be determined by that point and fatigue wouldn't matter. We descended Vestal the way we came up. Above our turn to head back to the saddle, I made sure my partner was good getting to the lake and we set timelines. We parted and I bolted toward West Trinity. I got to the base as I saw the two other climbers on the top. I started just below the ridge on the south side, and eventually tried to stay on the ridge as much as possible for a more direct route up. The rock is mostly solid and gives great options for routes. It was easy just following the ridge up and eventually back north to reach the summit of West Trinity at around 145. This may have been my favorite view of the Day, and you get a good perspective on Arrow and Vestal, and my next two goals Trinity and East Trinity. I also got to see Balsam lake for the first time, and WOW. That blue is comparable to Ice, or Columbine Lakes! the Needles Range from here is stunning, and I will never get sick of seeing Pigeon's incredible East face.

22338_04
Middle Trinity form West
22338_06
Arrow and Vestal from West Tri

Getting down West Trinity is straightforward, you can see your route most of the way down. Trinity start very straightforward, as you are contouring as near to the ridge as possible, but directly below it, until you hit a headwall with small cliffs, ending at a drop. I went to the far side near the drop and ascended some blocks up to the next set of cliff bands. At this point I could see the 4th class chimney above me a couple short climbs above. I started on the climbers right for the first ascent, then turned left around a corner to find easier passage up where you will see a cairn that will direct you to the chimney. The chimney is forgiving, and has great holds and feet placement, I exited the left side and worked my way around and behind the feature. From here you pass through the rib and into another gully system which eases in difficulty as you walk most of the rest of the way up to the summit at around 245.

At this point I saw the other two climbers who had just summited as well. We all congratulated each other on our accomplishment, and they shared some of their celebratory carrot cake with me. Such a cool gesture from some cool people. We took some pictures and talked for a few minutes, but with still East Trinity, and the long march back to the car, we got moving quickly. Down climbing Middle Trinity was slow going relatively. You follow the large gully off the east side, its steep and requires plenty of mantling. The good thing is, it takes you straight down. I remember looking at East Trinity from here and being caught off guard with how burly it looked, for being the least talked about. You start in the obvious gully, but the middle portion, not near the cliff wall in the shadows. you can preview the entire way up from this downclimb if you look at the blocks leading up the center of the gully.

22338_03
East Trinity. The route is just to the left of the shadowed gully in the middle.

The downclimb will put you near the saddle, but you must drop farther to enter the saddle gully, to enter the west facing gully heading up East Trinity. Once in the middle of the gully the route is obvious. As you climb higher there will be some blocks and small cliffs blocking easy passage. Head to the left of the first big block to avoid harder terrain on the right. It's hard to see from where the gully brings you to, but peek around the corner to the left and there is easier terrain. Once up this block, work back to the right to a small 3 block chimney that's about 8 feet high. It's a few high awkward steps and stem, but everything is at least sturdy and solid. Once up that move, its an easy scramble to the top of East Trinity. We reached the summit at 4pm, on time with our splits.

22338_05
Balsam Lake
22338_09
West Trinity and Trinity Lake

At this point I had not had water since I melted some snow on Vestal, so the lake was calling my name. We started the descent on the south side of the east ridge, and worked our way down the very loose slate/talus. We reached the saddle and then eventually the lake at around 5. I didn't have a filter so ran to the first moving stream i found below the lake and drank a bunch of that. It's a day trip, If I get Giardia, that's a tomorrow problem. I'm thirsty now. I underestimated how long it would take from the lake back to the camping area. The trail peter's out often, and leaves you confused in willows. Just keep working your way downhill, and in the direction you've been heading. I arrived back to our meeting point around 6pm. Where I met my friend and my dog. We were all pretty elated by the day, and they enjoyed resting at the lake for a few hours. We started our long haul back towards Molas around 620. Elk Creek was worse on the way back, my knees did not like the steepness and I was trying not to come crashing down on them on each down step, but it was inevitable. I would say at this point I was noticeably more uncomfortable on the approach out, than I was on Sunlight Creek leaving Jagged. I had also done significantly more elevation so I'm sure that played into it. We trudged along, eventually getting to the Switchbacks up to Molas Pass. My buddy was surprisingly crushing still, and started bolting up the switchbacks. The switchbacks are actually pretty gentle and very well maintained. That up climb could have been hell had they not been a gentle grade with baby smooth surfaces. We finally arrived back to the car around 1010. We honestly just started laughing once we did, as we knew that was a pretty ridiculous day, but it was an awesome day, especially now that we were done with it.

Pretty stoked on the peaks I finished with, and the manner in which I did. Long brutal days have their appeal, and I have many options in the SJ's to make some other fun long days. Looking forward to more.

Sorry none of the pictures correspond to beta or info, didn't plan on writing a trip report. Hope they help anyways.




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):


Comments or Questions
Marklim80401
User
Operation dark snake
9/16/2023 7:43pm
Looks like this would be a good option for you to finish the 14ers and centennials! If you dont want to pay for these two!


hellmanm
User
Enormous Day
9/17/2023 8:43am
Wow. Having been up into Vestal Basin a few times, Wemi vert hits different. More deadfall, more off-trail stuff up high, and slopes from hell to gain any saddle. That's an enormous day -- congrats on getting them all done at once!


jfm3
User
Oh Yeah
9/17/2023 7:01pm
There are no easy days in the Wemi. I tried to get Arrow & Vestal from Molas Pass over Labor Day weekend this year but only got Arrow because the weather wasn't great. I'm going to do it again next year to get Vestal and then do the Trinity Traverse while I'm in there. This report will definitely be part of the planning.


jfm3
User
Dark Snake
9/17/2023 9:35pm
I believe that Erin Ton, of recent 14er FKT fame, tried Operation Dark Snake a few years ago and ended up being detained by Cielo Vista Ranch. They may be wise to that method of summiting Culebra.


Slawson405
User
Not my thing
9/18/2023 7:05am
Ya I have no desire to do those 2, and don't want to make trouble for those that do. I just made my own subjective list and excluded those ones.


Slawson405
User
Vestal and trinities
9/18/2023 7:12am
Is a solid weekend, hopefully you get some time to do wham its truly incredible. The Trinities were a really fun time as well, the up climbs are solid, but the down climbs are a little loose


kempenjn
User
Nice work
9/18/2023 3:34pm
That is a long day! After doing it as a backpack a few weeks ago, I think a day trip is the right move. Wham is amazing, hope you get it next time.
Totally agreed re: the descents on the Trinities. Gross. Loved the climb on West Trinity, though.
Would love to hear your TR on Jagged as a day trip...sounds heinous.


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