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| Hourglass Summit |
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Good day, I need to be more proactive about trip reports. Here are my thoughts on the Bear that will hopefully help others. The hourglass climbing was wet in the center and is not hard and barely goes 4th class, maybe a soft 4th class. The rockfall hazard is extremely high and that is the one to worry about. We climbed on Weds morning to avoid crowds and only 2 others on summit that day. We coordinated descents to avoid killing each other. There is some circumnavigating and scrambling to the summit, but it is all there. The key is to stay to the left of the fixed line, which is full of OHK to seal the core shots. I wouldn't touch it. Stay left after the hourglass to gain the summit. It is well cairned and use this trail to avoid setting off the minefield of rock that is there. Optional Descent: For those with a solid understanding of a retrievable rappel set up with rope deployment bags that is what we did. Although we could have downclimbed, my partner and I carried alpine harnesses, 7.7 mm and a 6mm tag line to rappel. Used saddle bags for the rope deployment and you will not have to throw ropes and deal with rockfall. We were both through the hourglass in 8 minutes and did not cause any rockfall. LB is now my favorite 14er. Safe travels
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