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Peak(s)  Twilight Peak  -  13,162 feet
North Twilight Peak  -  13,084 feet
South Twilight Peak  -  13,105 feet
West Needle Mountain  -  13,060 feet
"N 2"  -  13,060 feet
Snowdon Peak  -  13,090 feet
"N 1" 12657
"N 3" 12618
Unnamed 12929
Date Posted  06/23/2023
Date Climbed   06/22/2023
Author  josephnephi
 West Needle Mountains Grand Traverse   

West Needle Mountains Grand Traverse!

After sleeping at Molas Pass and with an impeccable weather forecast, I hit the trail at ~5:30 AM to go conquer all the peaks between the Animas River and Lime Creek. The first two hours consisted entirely of approaching the Twilights along the Crater Lake Trail. Eventually, North Twilight appeared from around the corner.

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North Twilight from the Crater Lake Trail

After a few more minutes, I arrived at Crater Lake and began my accent up North Twilight's northeast ridge.

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North Twilight from the Crater Lake.

Overall, the ridge was incredibly pleasant. Starting off as a snow climb, it morphed into class 2 grass and eventually into a class 2+ ridge traverse to the summit.

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The Northeast ridge
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Approaching the North Twilight's summit

Once on the summit, I scouted my route to Twilight Peak. From previous trip reports, I knew that there would be a major notch to avoid and some class 3.

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South Twilight and Twilight along with some large unidentified mammals.

After easy class 2, I approached the notch and bypassed it to the west.

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Approaching the Notch
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In the Notch proper. I seem to have alarmed some of the locals.

After crossing the snow in the Notch, I climbed the solid and enjoyable class 3 to the summit of Twilight. This summit afforded fantastic views of the Needle Mountains to the west!

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Enjoying the views and remedying hostilities atop Twilight Mountain.
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South Twilight and West Needle Mountain from atop Twilight.

From Twilight proper, South Twilight was a short stroll. From South Twilight, I then needed to drop down the saddle with 12929 and West Needle. This was mostly class 2 with a few class 3 moves and a short glissade.

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Looking down to the saddle.
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Cool Rock

From the saddle, I followed a rudimentary trail over to West Needle. West Needle provided the most enjoyable scrambling with sustained class 2+ and class 3 on enjoyably solid rock. I probably threw in a few class 4 moves as well due to the fact that I didn't feel like finding the class 3 workaround.

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Traversing to West Needle
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Fun scrambling to be had in every direction.
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Approaching the summit of West Needle Mountain.

From West Needle, I retraced my steps down the ridge and began to traverse over to 12929. I would highly recommend getting this peak on the way back to the saddle as it is more pleasant to ascend from the West Needle side and descend further north. The decent gully is very loose and it's much easier to skree down than up.

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12929 from West Needle
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Loose descent of 12929

After returning to the ridge, I glissaded a good 600 feet down toward the North Twilight-N3 saddle. Reaching the saddle required about a half mile of unpleasant side-hilling on loose scree. One at the saddle, however, I simply walked up the gentle slopes of N 3 to the rather uninteresting summit. The views, however, were outstanding!

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Awesome glissade!
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Annoying side-hilling
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Mozying up to N 3
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Pigeon and friends to the east
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Twilights and 12929 to the south

From N 3 to N 2 (South Snowden) required a long but uneventful tundra traverse.

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Snowdon and N 2 from N 3
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Ridge of N 2
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Snowdon from N 2

South Snowden to Snowden required more scrambling. After dropping off the ridge to the west and regaining it after bypassing some cliffs, I arrived at Furthermore's Big Tree, Deep Notch, and Little Tree. From here, Snowdon's summit only required mostly class 2 and a few class 3 moves.

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Cliff bypass to the west
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Furthermore's Big Tree
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Furthermore's Deep Gully
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Furthermore's Little Tree just to the right of frame
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N 2 from the east side of Snowdon

Descending Snowdon's North Ridge was exciting! While all class 3, this would be a nightmare when wet!. The crux was a short chimney that one could argue was class 4. From here, N 1 was only a hop and a skip away!

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Looking down Snowdon's North Ridge
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The Chimney Crux
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The crux of the ridge from below
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Snowdon from N 1

Final Thoughts:

This was a really fun day! I definitely preferred all the peaks in the Twilight Region to those around Snowdon; less loose and better scrambling lines. The views were excellent all day and the route can certainly be kept in the class 3 region. It's definitely long! It took me roughly 11 hours, 18 miles, and 7,500 feet of gain to get all 8 ranked peaks so be ready for that if this link-up is appealing!


My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47


Comments or Questions
Sluglas
User
Crater Lake
6/24/2023 9:21am
Crater Lake still frozen?


josephnephi
User
Crater Lake
6/24/2023 9:45am
Seemed like it but not very strong


TomPierce
User
Glad to see some diversity...
6/24/2023 10:40am
...by including some Tusken Raiders on your traverse! Ha, loved it :-) Great job, looked like a great day.
-Tom


Boggy B
User
Snowdon NE ridge
6/26/2023 10:26am
Neat combo!
From your photos and track it looks like you took the hard way off the summit of Snowdon. Traversing the quartzite slab over that drop above the couloir looks exciting for sure.


josephnephi
User
Exciting Indeed
6/26/2023 9:52pm
Yeah definitely delivered the spiciest moments of the day


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