It is difficult for me to find a challenge my mentor Tony hasn't tackled but our planning went a little something like this. Hey Amy, I've never done this but, wanna free solo a M2-3 spectacular titillating mixed possible ice climb? Well...sure I've never done M anything so let's go! Fly me away to the bright side of the moon.

Dreamweaver

Do you love the theater but despise the drama? Well then run far away from the Dreamtheater Dreamweaver. This fine moderate alpine route in the beloved Rocky Mountain National Park offers all elements of a dramatic bewitching couloir and in it's prime can offer some zestful alpine ice not for the faint-hearted.

Varying conditions can present either a simple steep snow climb, a nice mixed route or a fine sustained ice climb. Typically shaping up in May,
conditions continuously change as the thaw-freeze cycle can reveal more rock but also, at night with below freezing temperatures can create ice flows.

During this dismal snow pack year we encountered some sublime mixed conditions for the green-horn mixed climber in me; snow, rock and little ice.
We begin at 12,450' and approach the couloir on steep 50 degree snow. This beautiful inviting couloir begins 500' below and left of Flying Buttress on a grade 2 snow field.

Tony decided to do the climb pure meaning no rope, no gear for a solid boost to our mental toughness. Good conditions means it will be busy. As we watch the duo ahead of us setting up a belay station from P1, I feel tenacious. And they sure do kick some mean steps.

From what I've studied, narrowing's in the Dreamweaver couloir make for some of the most beautiful alpine ice you'll ever climb of which I have zero
experience. Attempt this climb early and you will encounter a snow slog, later and you'll battle a lot of scree. Today we are following the leaders who
are trail breaking in the fluffy snow.

Don't look down...snowballs are flying at me here as Tony thrashes his way upward. The duo ahead are now past P2. There are two more cruxes in this next section, with the first being the biggest challenge of my climb.

I learned quickly to stick it, crank it, trust it and pull it. Meaning find a good axe placement, add a little twist, trust your hold, NO more twisting and pull through the move. Mixed climbing is a bit of hesitation is devastation as I tell myself to just do the work.

Tony says P2 was an M2-3 move...sweet

Tony tempting me to try a little blades on rocks; akin to Freddy Krueger's bladed glove on glass...eeeeeerrrrrrch

P 3, M1-2 on steep 55 degree snow is very exciting by narrowing to shoulder width with firm snow above and excellent axe placement. The team ahead is no longer placing their gear and are now free soloing too, so we continue

P 4 is a long pitch and can be often ice laden, none here. We are slowly catching the duo and since I'm forth in line I am showered with snow balls
while holding my head low and letting the helmet do it's job. Growing tired of this snowfection, it was time to take the lead in the bottomless
fluff but only because they so graciously offered as long as we kicked steps approximately 4 inches apart.

P 5 steepest ice if present but there is none, only exposed rock.

Summit scramble; careful there is loose rock here

A rewarding scramble on Meeker's knife edge and eventually to it's demure summit.

On the descent towards the Loft we ran into a trio that climbed some wicked variation of the Notch. They show us the way down the ledges from the Loft as we traverse a cairned path heading southeast at first then north to avoid the terrain trap with a deadly 400 foot cliff below. This route avoids the headwall immediately below the Loft. Carefully we take the ramp as it cuts back left and eventually deposits us on a moderate snow slope below the Loft. Beware, this slope can avalanche

So glad to be off that snow slope. Striking a pose here with my fancy nose shield. Don't be jealous

So we didn't need a rope, ice screws, cams etc but we did bring snow shoes, which also were not required. We left them here for safe keeping but
apparently some virile ragged goats or marmots hungry from hibernating or gasp, pesky humans decided to take off with them. So, if any of you
adventurous, outrageous, vigilante types see a cheap beater pair of baby blue Costco shoes with poles or a tip-top shape pair of Sherpa Mountain
shoes, slap that thief!

July 9, 2015

Goals are good and I like indulging in high performing recreational activities with friends who have similar. Today Tony and I are attempting the wicked Notch couloir on Long's Peak.

The Notch Couloir

Tony says he has one partner he'd like to complete this goal with; me. Alright mate, let's go!
So here I am once again to encapsulate an inimitable story of one amazing T & A adventure. A smashing time indeed.
It just so happens we planned this adventure to begin at the same time Andrew Hamilton; also a man with sublime goals who just finished his ultimate goal of the 14er speed record. We walk by, jaws agape at this determined man. He looks tired.

Our usual fast light and lucky is not the mode of travel for this expedition. We will test our mettle with slow and heavy, yet lucky. Tony has a full alpine rack and personals and I have a 30 meter/100 foot rope for rappelling the Cable's route. Long's Peak has many faces, but this is my favorite funny face. Diamonds are a girl's best friend I think as we make our way up Lamb's.

The Notch Couloir is a sort of tempting décolletage that is difficult to resist. The eyes averted and the body drawn in. We will soon experience its
menacing ways. The infamous Broadway ledges, something I love as well as something I'm good at, choss.

A scrumptious scramble indeed.
Cheek by jowl, we begin up the steep Notch couloir. As usual, Tony glides gracefully ahead. The narrowing with snow that is sub-par and slows progress. The conditions are slushy snow over ice.

A precise flick at the wrist can yield an excellent axe blade placement. All smiles when I find good axe purchase at a frequency that reverberates a solid chime through the metal. Yeah, this is fun.

The first mixed climbing crux where Tony is adamant that we place gear. He has trained me well and my strength is that I quickly follow, mimicking his every move. I felt strong and confident here for sure. The fog would roll in an out of the couloir with an eerie mysteriousness.

The second mixed climbing crux had an inviting chimney but poor gear placement.

Ah ha, now I know why my back hurts. Changing of the gear is tedious and time consuming but must be done on this climb. In my limited experience I am quickly learning to not be overwhelmed or task saturated but I owe it all to my mentor.

Past the dog leg now and coming out of the staircase. I hereby deem this staircase a scare face. Climbing on wet slab in crampons is a new perplexing experience. You know, I consider myself a reasonably responsible person however, as curiosity is wont to do I must pursue mountaineering for one complex reason; to experience what is humanly possible.

East facing couloirs can be dangerous for assessing the weather but that is because you can't see the approaching weather. I carry a DeLorme tracker and Marc was able to send me a message about the weather, which was great. We were fortunate to not encounter a deluge of rain the entire day however once we summited, the mountain vanished in a thick fog and reduced visibility to 10 feet as I think yep, this is craziness on queue; a rapt adventure as each crux had increasing difficulty. Interesting how fog full of light can make you feel like you're in total darkness. We kept our wits about us as we descended the north face; Tony and I keeping in close contact so we didn't lose each other in the sea of fog.

I have no desire to be the best but I like to do what makes me happy; exploration, adventure and pushing myself hard physically and mentally.