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A classic ascent of a saucy centennial. Lessons learned.
After a 2021 without a summit, I was really wanting to get to the mountains to get some elevation therapy. I had planned on going up in mid-July of 2021 and bagging the Igloo and Mountain Boy combo on July 10th and then LaPlata Peak on July 11th, but on July 2nd my wife had a bad lower fibula fracture occur that required surgery and several weeks of physical therapy and rehab. I canceled my trips and lined up all my vacation at work so I could be home and help get her get on the mend. She insisted that I go up on some days off in September, but two grandbabies were very close to their due dates and there was no way I was going to miss that, I don't care what mountain was in the plan! I decided back in July of this summer that I'd take my wife up to the mountains to celebrate a year post-surgery, hang in Fairplay, drive up to Breck for a day and just relax and enjoy the cooler weather. Our schedules had a short window open up in early September that we could both go, so we headed out after church on September 11th and made it to Fairplay right around 6:30 pm. I got my pack ready after we got to the room so I wouldn't have to bother the wife too much the next morning. We crashed pretty early and I ended up waking around 4:45 am, got my stuff rounded up and left the Riverside Inn in Fairplay for the Beaver Creek TH right around 5:30 am.
The view of Silverheels from the Riverside Inn in Fairplay. My wife was able to spot me on the summit from this spot the next morning!
The drive to the lower TH only takes about 10-15 minutes from Fairplay, but I had a hard time seeing the turn off to cross the creek in the dark. I went past the turnoff on my first try, but I turned around once I realized I was too far up the rough dirt road and restarted from the point that it goes from paved to unpaved just north of Fairplay. The second attempt I drove a little slower and found my turnoff to head up to the upper TH. The creek crossing was very easy, low water level and gentle, I put my Tacoma in 4WD to be on the safe side while going across the creek and up the rougher road to the upper TH. Probably could have made it without 4WD but clearance is definitely a must on that road.
I arrived at the upper Beaver Creek TH right around 6:40, got my stuff rounded up and hit the trail right around 6:50
Upper TH parking area. There is room for several vehicles here. Took this at the end of the hike just because it was too dark when I started!
A fairly well defined trail, which seems more like an old road, welcomes you for about the first mile or so. The trail gently climbs to the ENE and then curves more northward as you get closer to treeline. Lots of great views as well as twisted, ancient bristlecones make the first couple miles of the hike very enjoyable.
Trail conditions early in the hike, probably a 1/4 mile into the hike.Gently winding through the pines and small aspen.Most of the first mile to mile and a half of the trail looks much like this. Wide and easy to follow.More great trail to follow!Blurry picture looking SE, you can see some lights from Fairplay on the far right.Getting a little closer to treelineLooking out towards the SE at the Front Range
As you get closer to treeline there is a fork in the road/trail. Take the left fork, the right fork drops down and heads too far east. A large twisted, dead bristlecone is near this junction.
This large bristlecone is near the fork that taking the left path will lead you to the first of two significant humps on the trail.Looking back at the trail from near the trail split.An early glimpse of the far off summit. An old, windswept bristlecone forest is blown over in the foreground.
The first peek of the sun rising over the front range.Looking west/northwest towards the Decalibron, Northstar and QuandaryAnother view towards the summit with the 12,200-ish foot hump you must jaunt over.Another look at the Mosquito/Tenmile 14ers.
Once you reach the fork on the trail and go left, you gently ascend towards the base of a 12,000+ ft bump. You have to kind of look closely but there is a faint path that goes up an easy gully to top off and then descend on it's east side towards another bump further up.
The view due south towards Fairplay from the bottom of the 12,200 ft bump on the ascentThe view from PT12,200. Almost all the remaining hike is visible from here.Another shot to the west from PT 12,200Looking SW from PT 12,200 at the very southern end of the Mosquito Range
Once you top out on PT 12,200 the remaining ascent path is visible, though I wandered off considerably and probably made this ascent much more aggravating and tedious than it should have been. I dropped off the point and headed NE on easy tundra, but I started trending too far north and instead of heading straight to the next ridge due south of the summit I ended up sidehilling a little and stayed about 300 feet below the ridge proper...my mind told me just to head straight for the next ridge, but my legs told me I did not want to. Should have listened to my mind!
Looking back at the 12,200 ft humpGetting closer to the summit. This is where I should have went ahead and ascended to the east up to the next ridge.There was a trail in places, but it was very choppy, vague in places and harder to find on the ascent. Here you can see part of the trail that was defined.Another look to the south from right around 13,300 ft or so. You can see the trail for a little while.
I skirted around the west slope of the second hump along the trail, avoiding the elevation gain and loss that would have demoralized me even more than side hilling along the tundra. In hindsight I should have done a better job memorizing Roach's description of the ascent or even printed up the report for reference. I probably would have made much better time and saved myself some frustration on both the ascent and the descent.
Pt 12,200 way down the slope in the background, the second hump at about 13,000 ft in the foreground is the one I did not ascendGetting so close.
I finally made the summit at about 9:00 am. Not a great pace, but considering I hadn't been above 11,000 ft since August of 2020 I was fairly satisfied with my pace. It probably would have been a little quicker had I done a better job studying the route from Roach's 13ers book. I was never good about doing my schoolwork, so that's on me. One thing i did do was instead of heading directly to the summit I wrapped around on the gentler west side of the summit and finished the last 50 ft or so from there. It was fairly windy and cold on the summit, though the wind was much worse on the west side of the mountain between 12,000 and 13,000 during the ascent.
Proof that I made it!!! Tired but thankful to get another great centennial under my belt.USGS summit marker!Pretty much the entire hike in one picture.Looking down at Montgomery Reservoir and the Hoosier Pass area from the summit.
I stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes.
Pennsylvania Mountain, Sherman Gemini and other Mosquito peaks from the summit.A closer look at Quandary from Silverheels' summit.A closer look at Pennsylvannia and others
Zoomed in on Grays and Torreys to the NELooking down at PT 12,214 at the east end of Northstar Mountain, a point that I took some Ohio family up to a few years ago.This is where Pikes Peak should be. Hazy skies made the views to the east and due south a little disappointing.
I stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes. I called my wife and had her step outside in front of the Riverside Inn and look up with her binoculars and see if she could see me. She actually could see me! After a summit snack of gummy bears, a clif bar and some trail mix I started to head down.
Looking back up just a couple minutes into the descent.
Looking back again just a hundred feet or so above treeline
The next several pics are during the descent, but show better representations of the hike than the pics earlier would have due to darkness.
Almost back to treeline. The Buffalo Peaks are way back in the background.More downed bristlecones near the trailThe ancient bristlecones and some pine with the summit way off in the distanceTypical trail conditions from treeline back to the THTrail is a little faint at times early in the hike, I had to stop a few times in the dark to make sure I was still staying on trail.The aspen were barely starting to turn. I kind of wish we had tried to come up later in the month to get better colors.
I made it back to my truck around 11:00. A roundtrip total of a little over 5 hours for around 7.5 miles. Not great, not bad, but I really was enjoying the summit time. I did not see another soul during the hike, which really surprised me considering it's a pretty easily accessible centennial really close to a lot of places. I'll take it though. It took me about 20 minutes to drive back into Fairplay. I met my wife at South Park Brewing where I enjoyed a good flight of beers and some tasty tacos. I thoroughly enjoyed this place. We spent the rest of the day walking around Fairplay, relaxing and the next day drove over Hoosier Pass to Breck and spent the day enjoying The Blue Stag for lunch and just taking in the perfect weather in one of our favorite places on Earth.
A pretty nice way to celebrate a summit!!!My approximate ascent in red, descent in yellow.
Now my thoughts and insights for this hike: First off, this route is not on Bill's route lists yet, but it is listed as one of Gerry Roach's classic routes in his 13er guide. This was definitely a challenging route for me for a few reasons: first, I haven't been above 11,000 ft in a couple years, secondly, I probably need to get in better shape and thirdly, I didn't pay enough attention to the info in Roach's guidebook. There are at least two places that it's just easier to ascend and then lose elevation than it is to skirt around them. I tried this on the second of two humps and I ended up regretting it due to a lot of sidehilling and bad footing. It is a demoralizing aspect of the hike, but just sucking it up and going over those ridge bumps is easier than the alternative. This is a challenging route regardless but it is well worth the effort. The trail is well defined early, but it is spotty and vague once you get closer to PT 12,200. Just take your time and look for cairns, they are sporadic, at best, but they do help you stay on course when you get lucky enough to spot them.
The turn off to cross Beaver Creek and head up to the upper TH is easily overlooked, but once you drive past the marked gate at the lower Beaver Creek TH on CR 655 it is right at 2.25 miles up the well maintained road. I imagine earlier in the season the creek could be a challenge, but in early September it was quite easy and my Tacoma handled it as well as made the road up to the upper TH with no issues. I did put the truck in 4WD but it actually would have made it without. The road does get rough, but clearance is more of an issue than traction when I went. Pack plenty of water as there is no water source once you get past Beaver Creek. On this day I saw absolutely no one else, but I have a feeling that is not the case on most days. I had a great cell signal for about 90% of the hike, there was a couple of places that my signal dropped out but would come back within a few minutes.
I think this hike would be a good one for a beginner...it's not too terribly long, about 7.5 miles RT from the upper TH and if starting from the creek crossing, it only adds a couple of easy road hiking miles. There is almost no exposure if you stay on route, but bailing out in case of storms isn't really feasible as almost all the hike is above treeline. I highly recommend this hike, just pay attention to Roach's route description and this is a great peak to grab.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
I've been missing seeing your TR's, Travis! I've been up Silverheels from Hoosier Pass and from the Como side but never did your route - something that will have to change! Thanks for putting this up as it has given me the incentive to go for it. Hope your wife has/is recovering!!
mathguy, I really find Fairplay to be an underrated mountain town. The views all around the town are great and the people all seemed genuinely nice. I still like Breck slightly more just because there is a larger variety of dining, recreational, and shopping options, but I'd rather stay in Fairplay and just drive over the pass to Breck.
Thanks for the comment, Jay. Wife is almost 100% now. But the doc said that she'll have minor arthritic pains, especially in cold weather, he was right...but walking and getting around is back to normal. You'll find the route very fun, but I honestly would recommend starting at the abandoned mining structures just past the creek crossing. The road is an easy hike and only adds 2 miles.
Lunches, I did not see what appeared to be abandoned cars on or near the road.
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