OTHER Trip Report 08/30/2022

Report Type	Mini
Peak(s)	Lead Mountain 12,537ft.
Date Posted	08/30/2022
Date Climbed	08/23/2022
Author	TimoMan

Lead Mt. North Ridge (Class 4) and East Ridge Descent (Class 3+ or 4)
This is a fantastic and remote adventure in RMNP that utilizes some of the best rock in the Never Summer Range. You approach from wild and remote Skeleton Gulch, hit the main Never Summer Crest between Tepee Mt. and Lead Mt., turn south and begin scrambling. The crux of the whole range is the North Ridge of Lead Mt. (Class 4). You can stay on the ridge for aaaalmost the whole way, and it makes for a great challenge. There do appear to be workarounds near the toughest sections, but they also appear to feature Class 4 scrambling. Once above this, you ridge stroll on looser but generally OK rock to the actual summit of Lead (2+). Then, for the most expedient way down, take the East Ridge (Class 3+/4). You can descend via Hitchens Gulch, the Ditch Road, and Red Mountain Trail back to the Colorado River Trailhead, OR you can retrace through Skeleton Gulch, descend to the river trail via the lower part of Thunder Pass Trail and head south to the trailhead from there. For mountain masochists, you could try the entire Never Summer Traverse or take Thunder Pass to Static Peaks East ridge (solid rock and Class 3), climb that, tag Richthofen, head south to Tepee, tag Lead, and then pop off the crest via Lead's East ridge. Please note that this is a serious scrambling route and would easily make it into the top 5 14ers routes in terms of difficulty. The ridgeline is beautiful but highly exposed, there are numerous small downclimbs, upclimbs, and Class 4 scrambling. It can be slow going. If you're into scrambling, this is a winner, if you're going for a larger ridge traverse with multiple summits, this is the biggest obstacle in the Never Summers that I'm aware of. Via Skeleton Gulch: ~16-17 miles roundtrip. ~3500 ft. gain/loss. 4-minute video of important parts of the scramble (broken up into parts, just look at the description under the vid). There's no audio, it ain't fancy, it's just another reference point for anyone considering doing this route. Trail description with more marked-up pics, reference shots, and details. Lead Mt. North Ridge Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Lead Mt. North Ridge (Class 4) and East Ridge Descent (Class 3+ or 4)

This is a fantastic and remote adventure in RMNP that utilizes some of the best rock in the Never Summer Range. You approach from wild and remote Skeleton Gulch, hit the main Never Summer Crest between Tepee Mt. and Lead Mt., turn south and begin scrambling. The crux of the whole range is the North Ridge of Lead Mt. (Class 4). You can stay on the ridge for aaaalmost the whole way, and it makes for a great challenge. There do appear to be workarounds near the toughest sections, but they also appear to feature Class 4 scrambling. Once above this, you ridge stroll on looser but generally OK rock to the actual summit of Lead (2+). Then, for the most expedient way down, take the East Ridge (Class 3+/4).

You can descend via Hitchens Gulch, the Ditch Road, and Red Mountain Trail back to the Colorado River Trailhead, OR you can retrace through Skeleton Gulch, descend to the river trail via the lower part of Thunder Pass Trail and head south to the trailhead from there. For mountain masochists, you could try the entire Never Summer Traverse or take Thunder Pass to Static Peaks East ridge (solid rock and Class 3), climb that, tag Richthofen, head south to Tepee, tag Lead, and then pop off the crest via Lead's East ridge.

Please note that this is a serious scrambling route and would easily make it into the top 5 14ers routes in terms of difficulty. The ridgeline is beautiful but highly exposed, there are numerous small downclimbs, upclimbs, and Class 4 scrambling. It can be slow going. If you're into scrambling, this is a winner, if you're going for a larger ridge traverse with multiple summits, this is the biggest obstacle in the Never Summers that I'm aware of.

Via Skeleton Gulch: ~16-17 miles roundtrip. ~3500 ft. gain/loss.

4-minute video of important parts of the scramble (broken up into parts, just look at the description under the vid). There's no audio, it ain't fancy, it's just another reference point for anyone considering doing this route.

Trail description with more marked-up pics, reference shots, and details. Lead Mt. North Ridge

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

dillonsarnelli

YES!
8/30/2022 8:52pm

Nice work

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