The one thing I noted from that trip was that the "downclimb to a notch", right before the east gully, has a somewhat similar looking area only about 40 feet to the left. It looked difficult, but I had heard in other trip reports that it looked hard from above but was not so hard when you were on it. So I started to head down, but decided to check my GPS device to make sure I was on the right path. It seemed to indicate that I was off by 30-40 feet, so I went to the right and sure enough there was an obvious cairn marking the real spot! I don't know what would have happened if I'd gone down the other way; perhaps it would have been ok but maybe not!

For this time I drove out after work on Thursday July 21 and got to the 2wd trailhead just before midnight. Plan being to have a long night hike but time to recover before the climb. Boy, it's a long ways to carry a pack! Camped at the Old South Colony Lakes Trailhead and then hiked the remainder the next morning.

Rested Friday. Checked weather reports about 50 times. Looking good.

I left just after 3:00am in the dark, so if there were setbacks (going wrong way in dark) I'd still have a really early start and be able to go slow to conserve energy and still be down long before noon.

I did have a minor setback-in the dark, and with no obvious trail in the scree and talus field, I ended up too high under Broken Hand Pass/Peak and in some sketchy area and had to downclimb towards a line of confident -in-their trek headlamps. They said they were on the trail so I followed them to the top of Broken Hand Pass. Only lost about thirty minutes.

The hike to the base of the east gully was uneventful. Met two pleasant young women who had come from the Cottonwood side so, "our hike this morning wasn't as hard as yours". As in from the Cottonwood side one doesnt have to climb Broken Hand Pass, you are starting from that side.

Got to east gully a bit tired but not worn out like trip #1. Oh, the excitement of now getting to climb that which was deferred three weeks ago! Again, I found this to be another case of the actual climb being much easier than the pictures suggest. Ir really wasn't difficult and I was surprised by how much of it was really more like class two, just being able to walk it.

I knew that once I got to 13,600 altitude I should go left so as to be able to see the crossover. I'd considered doing to 4th class option all east gully but as this was the most difficultly ranked climb I'd done to date I figured I'd save that for a later trip. I believe I actually did get to a short 4th class climb briefly but I didn't continue very far as I could see people going up about 60 yards to my left and I knew I had to get over there now or miss the crossover.

Here was where I learned something important- I read many reports where people did not ever see the crossover, and it became clear here as to why-there is a large up and down spine of rock here, and if you are 50 or 60 yards to the right of the crossover, it blocks your view. It would be hard to traverse over, so I went down a very short ways to below it, traversed there, and was happy to see a line of maybe 10 people crossing over-so I really didn't have to look hard to find it-good timing!

I climbed up to there quick so as to see how they were doing it. The two young women I spoke with earlier were waiting there turn so I was right behind them.

I have to say it does look a bit different "in person". This was probably the only time I thought I could perhaps take a nasty fall, but the fall would be back into the narrow little gully under the dihedral- about 8 feet. I don't think one would go too far downhill but still would be a fall you wouldn't want!

The fact that I'm 6'4" and have legs like someone 6'9" made the reach around step easier- it really probably was the crux but all ten or so people seemed to make it across ok.

I checked my altimeter immediately one across- so according to my reading, it was exactly 13,670 at the dihedral crossing.

Since I was at the end of a ten or so person line, I just followed the line into the west gully. The pictures make it seem like you're on a vertical wall of death, but it wasn't bad at all. If you are being careful there's no reason you should fall.

The west gully was lovely- I never felt I could get lost, though again I had a line of people marking the way (and they were all going the correct way).

The 14ers picture of the "ramp" after the top of the west gully look so vertical, but this area is SO full of wonderful stable holds it did not seem hard at all.

I got to spend a good 30-40 minutes on the summit. Perfect blue skies with excellent forecast.

Going down, I was concerned that the downclimb would be harder. It wasn't at all. I kind of did that crab thing most of the way and never felt too threatened.

In fact, I began to play it extra safe, as I was feeling like it was too easy. I suppose that attitude can be deadly.

I actually laughed out loud when I came within sight of the west to east crossover point. I had studied this part the most, and I recommend this be studied well. Not only was it obvious from looking at pictures from MANY ANGLES as well as turning around every 50 or 100 feet up from there until I was sure I'd recognize it coming down, but it kinda was like Las Vegas with a rock with a pink bow marker, a hat, and a sweater. There was gonna be no missing the spot today!

Plus, a cairn when I went up the crossover point, and another hat marking the direction to the dihedral crossover.(I had to scare away a squirrel trying to steal the hat!)

The crossover back over the dihedral point was a little harder as there was no line of people to observe. This was the second time I was cognizant of a possible injurious fall, as I had to place my foot on a tiny foothold rock and hope it didn't slip off as I jumped across. Again, the fall would be enough to perhaps break a bone but I don't think I e would fall far enough down the little mini gully to really tumble.

It went fine.

Going down I had to keep reminding myself that this is a dangerous mountain and people have died here. It did not seem that hard, and places where a fall seemed possible were areas where a fall would probably not amount to much.

I certainly understand why most accidents happen on the way down. You're tired and get complacent given hours of good fortune on harder territory. The downclimb from Broken Hand Pass has many such opportunities for this to occur.

I certainly vote the Needle a tremendously fun climb. While the long, long, long (did I say long?) trip back down the pass, deconstructing the campsite, seven miles to the car carrying the weight of a longhorn sheep on my back made me rue the day I'd ever decided to come, now a day later I'm itching to get back! (Might try out that Cottonwood side next time and not carry so much stuff!)