OTHER Trip Report 06/29/2022

Report Type	Mini
Peak(s)	Mt. Fairweather (15,325')
Date Posted	06/29/2022
Modified	06/30/2022
Date Climbed	05/20/2022
Author	Craig Barlow

Mt. Fairweather
Sitting at 15,325' on the border of Alaska and British Columbia, Mt. Fairweather is the fourth most prominent peak in the United States and the 26th most prominent in the world. It's also the highpoint of British Columbia and the highpoint of Glacier Bay National Park. The peak sits just 15 miles east of the Gulf of Alaska making it a dominant presence from that (and really almost any) angle. The mountain is rarely climbed with the last ascent on peakbagger being in 2018. Due to the typically terrible weather, many parties fail. The first ascents of the peak came from the coast and involved days of bushwhacking and dealing with deteriorating glacier conditions just to get to the base of the mountain. Our strategy would be different and is what many parties do today. We waited for what looked like a good weather window before even buying our plane tickets to Alaska, then went by ski plane to the Grand Plateau Glacier at 9,700' and went up and climbed the peak quickly before getting back out to safety. I have uploaded a few photos here, but click on the link below to read the full report with all the details: https://photos.app.goo.gl/o53ydpWB45j2hGVNA Unloading on the Grand Plateau Glacier NW Face of Fairweather Starting to climb the headwall. Doug leading the ice step. Heading to the summit. Me on the summit. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Mt. Fairweather

Sitting at 15,325' on the border of Alaska and British Columbia, Mt. Fairweather is the fourth most prominent peak in the United States and the 26th most prominent in the world. It's also the highpoint of British Columbia and the highpoint of Glacier Bay National Park. The peak sits just 15 miles east of the Gulf of Alaska making it a dominant presence from that (and really almost any) angle. The mountain is rarely climbed with the last ascent on peakbagger being in 2018. Due to the typically terrible weather, many parties fail. The first ascents of the peak came from the coast and involved days of bushwhacking and dealing with deteriorating glacier conditions just to get to the base of the mountain. Our strategy would be different and is what many parties do today. We waited for what looked like a good weather window before even buying our plane tickets to Alaska, then went by ski plane to the Grand Plateau Glacier at 9,700' and went up and climbed the peak quickly before getting back out to safety. I have uploaded a few photos here, but click on the link below to read the full report with all the details:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/o53ydpWB45j2hGVNA

21701_01 — Unloading on the Grand Plateau Glacier

21701_03 — Starting to climb the headwall.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

BillMiddlebrook	Trip reports 6/30/2022 6:21am Great report! When referencing a trip report like this on another site, please include at least a few photos with a teaser summary or something, otherwise users may not click your link. Thanks
arthurspiderman	Amazing!! 6/29/2022 5:31pm Incredible stuff, Craig! Wish I could've joined you up there; seems like it was a blast. Maybe I'll catch you on Blackburn next year ;)
Craig Barlow	Thanks 6/29/2022 6:22pm Thanks Arthur, wish you were there to help me break trail!
Craig Barlow	Thanks Bill! 6/30/2022 10:44am Bill, thanks for the feedback. I have uploaded a few pics and a short description of the trip.

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