Log In 
Report Type 
Full
Peak(s)  Sunlight Peak  -  14,061 feet
Mt. Eolus  -  14,087 feet
Windom Peak  -  14,089 feet
North Eolus  -  14,042 feet
Date Posted  03/05/2022
Date Climbed   01/24/2022
Author  Will_E
 Chicago Basin Winter tour   

Chicago Basin Winter 2022

The Chicago Basin peaks were at the top of my priority list this winter, and actually were on my list of goals for the previous winter as well, but conditions just never made it possible. My hero Beard McQueen and I had been talking about teaming up to get Chi Basin for a bit before the start of winter, but he ended up getting down there sooner than I could get enough time off work to join him. A few weeks after his trip, I had a week off work and conditions ended up looking good for me to give it a shot. And thanks to the great trench provided by McQueen, Angry and Blazintoes, it would be a bit easier. I owe those 3 big time.

I drove down to Durango on Saturday 1/22 to stay the night and get an early start Sunday morning.

21573_12
Everything I hoped I'd need for the trip. I took way too much food.
21573_13
I don't know what it weighed, but I'd guess 45 lbs.

Goal was to be hiking Sunday morning by 6 am, didn't quite make it. First mistake was trusting Google Maps to know where the Purgatory Trailhead was, it lead me down some residential area that I followed for a few miles before realizing I wasn't in the right place. Found the trailhead, but no parking around so I went across the highway and parked at the ski resort, adding about a half mile to the trip each way. I was hiking just before 7am.

Dark start to the day, but the initial hike was downhill and well packed. I had no way to attach my snowshoes to my pack, so first few miles down to the river I just carried them by hand.

21573_14
Put snowshoes on just before this section.

From the first part of the river I started climbing, there were 3 sections along this segment that had steep, stiff snow that you wouldn't want to slip on, you'd end up in the river.

21573_15
Along the path up the river.

Everything was good so far, but I had a long day ahead of me. I really had no idea how long it would take me to get to the basin, I wasn't even sure I'd get there on day 1. Told my SAR crew I hoped to get there in a day, but might take until after dark. I had enough junk food, er, rations to last 5-6 days if needed.

After reaching the Cascade train stop, I crossed the bridge and started following the train tracks, they were plowed for a few miles, I took off my snowshoes and carried them again.

21573_16
End of the train track plowing.
21573_01
Along the train track walk.

After 5 or 6 miles on the tracks, I was finally at the Needleton bridge.

21573_17

Took a break at the cabin to give my shoulders some relief and eat a bit, as I knew the toughest part of the day was about to start, a 6 mile, 3,000' elevation gain hike up to the basin. I was making much better time than expected, and was pretty excited at the possibility of setting up camp before dark.

21573_18
Along the ascent past Needleton.
21573_19
Finally nearing the corner to camp.

I made it to camp right at 3:30, I never expected to make that kind of time, just under 9 hours from start. Apple and Garmin both agreed on distance for the day, a hair over 18 miles.

21573_28

Beard had given me some great beta on a water source just above camp, so after setting everything up I put my snowshoes back on and took all my bottles up to find it. It was about a half mile away, and a complete lifesaver not having to melt snow. After filling all my bottles and getting back to camp, I ate some junk food and was in bed by 6pm. I set my alarm for 2:30 am, again unsure how long my day was going to be, but I really wanted to get all 4 peaks on Monday, as a cold front was moving in Tuesday and temps were forecasted to drop 10°-15°.

I barely slept Sunday night, maybe an hour. I wasn't cold, I think just anxious. I woke around 2am, and decided to just get the day started. Hardest part of getting ready was getting my boots on, they were pretty much frozen. Thermometer showed 15°. I was hiking by 2:30am.

The trench was in place and easy to follow until reaching treeline, from there I found it and lost it a few times. My plan was to get Sunlight and Windom first, then go for Eolus. Plans don't always work out. As I was making my way up to Twin Lakes, it felt like I should have been at the lakes by now, I pulled out my phone and looked at my position. I had unknowingly started angling left towards Eolus, and was nearing 13,000'. I changed plans.

As I reached the ramp on Eolus' standard route, I was getting really great traction on the steep snow next to the ramps, so I went with it. Made it to the saddle between N. Eolus and Eolus and left my snowshoes. Normally I'd go up Eolus first and do North on return, but I was at least an hour from sunrise so went up North Eolus first.

21573_21
Cold and Windy on N. Eolus, I didn't stay long.

After getting back to the saddle, I put crampons on to ascend Eolus. The ridge to Eolus is a really fun section, I had done it this past summer so was fairly familiar with it. Far better than the standard route, which really isn't possible in winter anyway. Made it to Eolus' summit just as the sun began to rise, it was incredible. My favorite pictures this trip are from the summit of Eolus.

21573_23

21573_22

21573_02

21573_35

21573_34

Spent plenty of time at summit snapping pictures, it was one of those once in a lifetime photographer's opportunities. Made my way down from Eolus, now feeling good that I'd likely be able to get all 4 peaks today.

21573_33
Start of the down climb off Eolus, its so much fun.
21573_03
Looking back at Eolus from the catwalk now that I had light.
21573_24
Looking at N. Eolus from the catwalk.
21573_25
Making my way back towards Twin Lakes.

Getting to Sunlight next wasn't terribly hard, but the snow had softened up just a bit in the morning sun. After reaching the top of the gully to Sunlight, I left my snowshoes and continued on.

Once reaching the top of Sunlight, I set up my tripod, and went about getting up to the summit block. Couldn't get traction on the big rock leading up to it as my boots were wet, so put crampons, which worked great. Fortunately not much wind today.

21573_26
As close to standing up as I would venture.

A few more shots from Sunlight:

21573_05

21573_04

21573_06
Zoomed in on Vestal and Arrow.

Retraced back to the base of the gully, ready to go straight across and get Windom next.

21573_27
Between Sunlight and Windom.

Windom wasn't difficult, made good time up to the top, hung out for a bit as weather was good and I had 5G service.

21573_07
Summit of Windom.
21573_08
Zoomed in on Jagged from Windom.
21573_09
Zoomed in on Rio Grande Pyramid and the window from Windom.

No issues getting off Windom, was glad I'd be finishing in daylight so I could get some pics of what I missed in the morning darkness.

21573_36
Twin Lakes
21573_20
Near camp, around 11k' elevation. Water hole on the right.
21573_37
Summit day GPS track.

Made it back to camp just before dark, I was in bed by 6pm, completely thrilled and fulfilled that I was able to get all 4 peaks. Sent a message to my SAR friends that I'd be heading to the car whenever I woke up Tuesday.

I didn't sleep an ounce that night, but knew I needed to rest my legs before the next day, so I just laid in bed. I'm taking sleeping pills next time. At 3 am I got up and started packing, was on the trail hiking about 3:40.

Hardest part of the return trip was from camp to Needleton, the descending motion was murder on my shoulders from the pack weight. Beyond that the return was uneventful, though it took longer getting out than getting in. A few pictures from the return trip:

21573_29

21573_30

21573_10

A few certificates of appreciation on my windshield when I got back to the car. Not sure what I did wrong, I wasn't blocking anybody, and there was another vehicle parked next to me. <shrug>

21573_31

Trip stats by day.

21573_32

Big thanks to Blazintoes, Beard McQueen and Angry for being the beta/trenchers for this trip, it would have taken me at least a day or 2 longer without the great trench. Thanks for reading.




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36


Comments or Questions
-wren-
User
Insanity
3/5/2022 5:44pm
Insanity


wineguy
User
Wow!
3/6/2022 12:46pm
Congrats, great photos.


JQDivide
User
Great Work
3/6/2022 6:21pm
Great work!


blazintoes
User
Sponsorship woes
3/7/2022 11:12am
No one is sure how much it costs Chipotle to sponsor Will E. Coyote. No matter, they will continue to charge us $1.30 for a side of their avacadough and Will won't admit that eating one of their burritos in the dead of winter is like a microwaved meal; smoking hot on the outside, ice cold on the inside. This is the real reason he had so much food leftover and murdered his shoulders.


mtngoatwithstyle
User
Amazing job!
3/7/2022 7:52pm
Will, this was a great report to read. Those photos of the beginning of the trail by the river look insane to go through. Your photos are wonderful and I think Purgatory should be cheering for you, since you went to heaven and came back in one day!. Did you ever find out where you would have been able to find a place to park your car?. Be well! Teresa


Will_E
User
Re: sponsorship woes
3/7/2022 8:52pm
Re: sponsorship woes


Jay521
User
In my next life
3/9/2022 3:48pm
I want to be able to do what you do..

Amazing report.


dblax19
User
Rad
3/13/2022 10:57am
Great report and beast of a trip! Nice work, love the pics


snowypeaks
User
Superb!
8/17/2023 3:53pm
Thanks for the superb report! Outstanding example of fitness, individual determination, and mountaineering skill!


   Not registered?


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.