This TR is to elaborate on the existing, and accurate TR’s before mine on the link-up of these two peaks. It’s a masochists route, and for those who like going against the grain. I guess I have daddy issues, (Mountain) daddy issues if you will. Why do things the hard way? I suppose it builds character, (or feeds an ego?). Anyways.

I recently realized I have yet to complete a ranked 13er in the Elks. I really enjoyed the scenery of the area during my visits to the local 14ers, but had not yet come across an opportunity to scout of any of the 13ers nearby. I planned ahead to have a couple weekdays off, and as the dates got closer, the monsoon forecast grew stronger. The early mornings looked good so I shot for Cathedral and Malemute on my first outing.

I drove to the campgrounds north of the TH near Castle Creek and arrived around 5pm, with only 3 other sites taken (I LOVE WEEKDAYS).

We (Moby, my dog) wanted to arrive at the lake for sunrise, so we set out around 520. On a superb trail, we arrived around 630 just in time for a stellar sunrise. We were alone, and with scenes like that, you’d imagine a trail of people lined up to watch. I marveled.

we set up and caught the miners trail. Once in the amphitheater we stayed high and right. Where the rocks were solid. Once up top we went to the base of the shite gully and surveyed. As previous reports indicate, it does indeed, suck. Perhaps one of the steepest, loosest gully’s encountered. BUT, it sucks way less if you keep far right (North) in the gully. There is a band of grey rocks in a dry stream bed that are solid and will give you a relenting 250 feet of stable passage. Once the gully narrows, keep right, and scramble on the stable mudstone cliff side to alleviate the looseness under your feet. About 250 feet from the saddle, the cliff narrows, and you are forced the take it slow and staying right, come up above a cliff band, then traversing left you’ve hit the saddle and the difficulties are behind (below, waiting again for) you.

As the other reports suggest, follow the excellent climbers trail to the summit of Cathedral. The views are spectacular. I’ll leave the descriptive for your own interpretation. However, observe you’re route towards Malemute. The large cliff band is your objective at 13k stay as high as you can as the high portion of that grassy cliff band is what you want to aim for.

Back down to the saddle. Disclaimer: you’re going to toss rocks. Yell down before, and make sure no one is coming up. If it’s summer, there will be no one else coming up because it sucks in the summer, but make sure haha. Stay Left on the same route you came up. When you arrive at 13k, like other reports suggest, start traversing right towards The large grassy cliff band is beyond you’re sight now, but stay high. This is the crappiest part of the whole day. If you’ve seen APOCALYPSE NOW, you remember the saying “THE HORROR”. This part is called “THE TALUS”. It’s loose, oh God it’s loose. My dog took it much better than I did but even he looked at me like, “You Dick”. Sorry buddy. Keep traversing, you will seee remnants of an old mine as you top the forst part of the cliff band, stay high, and keep a steady footing as you proceed. At the top of the first, you will see the second cliff band.

I can’t honestly say if dropping elevation here ‘goes’. What I can say is staying 13k and hitting a cliff above the lake at 12700 does go. From here, frustratingly, you will need to drop to 12700 to the lake. I will say, this portion is solid, and is a welcome relief rather than trying to stay at 13k above the lake. On the right side, halfway across the lake, look up to a gully leading up the steep slope. You cannot see the ridge from here but there are two obvious ways to go once the gully forks about 200 feet up. Both go. The gully is stable and enjoyable is care is taken. Left is a stiff class 3 on steep talus. Right is easy class 3 on stable talus. Once you hit the saddle, the route is obvious. The ridge is super enjoyable compared to what you’ve encountered so far. It’s the best part of the day. Summit Malemute and revel in the nonsense you’ve just put yourself through. Moby took this hike way better than I did. The route down off the ridge is SAME AS YOI CAME UP. No short cuts.

When at the lake, follow the creek all the way down to the cliff. At the cliff, look over and find the grey rocked, black stained dry Creek bed sloping down toward Cathedral Lake. This is the far right (South) side of the cliff band. There is a stiff class 3 move, could be awkward if wet. After that follow the cliff band to the lake and around to the excellent trail.

It really is beautiful in late summer/early fall, and if you can put up with some shite terrain to an extent, it’s worth it. Will be exciting to see it in winter as well, an aptly named mountain. Cathedral.