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In early June I had to cancel international mountaineering plans last minute due to coronavirus-related travel restrictions, and I scrambled to make backup plans. I decided to drive down from my home in Seattle to Colorado and climb the 14ers. Then the day before I left I decided maybe I could squeeze in the centennials also. They sounded remote and interesting, and three of them even had short 5th class sections, which sounded fun. I had Gerry Roach’s 14ers guidebook for the 14ers and would rely on 14ers.com reports for beta on the 13er centennials.
I drove 23 hours to Colorado, reaching the crag view trailhead on Pikes Peak at midnight. The next morning, June 16, I started my first peak, Pikes Peak. From there I went to Mt Elbert and worked my way south to Culebra. I luckily managed to reserve a permit so I could climb it legally.
I discovered most of the mountains have 4wd and 2wd trailheads (unlike trailheads in Washington), and I was generally too nervous to drive my forester past the 2wd trailheads. Instead, I would usually park at the 2wd trailhead and mountain bike to and from the 4wd trailhead. This was often actually faster than the trucks and jeeps driving the rough roads!
I was able to shift my schedule a bit to climb dangerous peaks like Little Bear on weekdays to avoid crowds, and safer peaks on weekends. From Culebra I moved to the San Juans. I rope soloed all three technical peaks (Dallas, Jagged, and Teapot), and Jagged ended up being my favorite peak of the trip.
Next I drove north to the Capitol and Snowmass area. My time window started getting tight by then since I had scheduled a horse packer to bring my gear into the Wind Rivers in Wyoming on July 21 for another trip. I definitely did not want to miss that date.
To make the most efficient use of time during my last week in the face of daily afternoon thunderstorms I shifted and shortened my sleep schedule to sleep around 2 hours per day, during the storms in the late afternoon. I would then climb through the night and through the next morning when it was safe to be above treeline. For my longest day I ended up doing a 36-hour push starting on Capitol for sunrise, then snow-climbing up Cathedral later in the day. I then biked and climbed Castle and Conundrum through the night and did Mt of the Holy Cross and Holy Cross Ridge the next morning before the storms came in. That ended up being 49 miles with 18,000ft gain.
On my third to last day I managed to squeeze in 10 centennials, starting at midnight to hit the DeCaLiBron peaks and ending on midnight on the summit of Silverheels.
I climbed my final peaks – Longs and Meeker – in the morning of July 19. Luckily I had finished with just enough time to take a full rest day to drive to Pinedale, Wyoming, then hike into the winds the next morning without missing the horsepackers. (I went on the climb all the WY 13ers over the next 16 days).
Thanks! As far as I know this is now the FKT for the centennials in self-supported style. Justin Simoni still holds the self-powered FKT (60 days), which is a much more difficult accomplishment since he biked between all the trailheads while I drove.
The 2 hr -sleep days were really just for the last week, luckily. I averaged a bit more sleep than that during the first few weeks.
For what I called the bonus peaks I ended up climbing the five soft ranked 14ers also (El Diente, Cameron, Conundrum, North Eolus, North Maroon) and then mostly a bunch of named 13er peaks on ridges in between my main objectives (like Iowa, Bull Hill, Gemini, Frasco, Baldy Alto, Obstruction, and others like that).
Bloody hell Eric! What you did is super impressive on so many levels. Obviously physically going big day after day after day for over a month straight not to mention you didn't skip a beat and marched on right through 35 peaks in WY! But also keep the TH and route logistics sorted and organized from out of state is not trivial. It takes me two weeks to plan a string of 14 peaks, not 150 peaks! I don't even know how you managed to stay on top of food that whole time. Mega effort, that's one amazing summer trip!
Definitely the most dedicated and badass peakbagger I have ever climbed with. It was a pleasure sharing the WY 13ers trip with you, and talking about this amazing feat you did in Colorado right before. Really look forward to more international trips with you Eric!
Thanks!
For logistics I was helped a lot by Gerry Roach's 14ers guidebook and all the beta on 14ers.com and the WY winds guidebook by Kelsey.
How I planned was I wanted to start with CO since it was farthest south so might have the least snow in June, then work my way north to WY and end in MT (I also did all the MT 12ers immediately after the WY 13ers). I chose the peak order in CO by starting on the peaks with the driest condition updates on 14ers.com and ending on the northern peaks since they were closest to Wyoming. In advance I chose a general order of peaks that seemed optimal distance-wise for CO, WY, MT, but didn't research all the details at first, since there were too many to keep track of.
Once in CO I would look up peak details a day or two ahead of climbing them to figure out more detailed route beta. This often meant accessing internet on summits to look up beta for the next day's peaks. I definitely made some mistakes. Lots of times I assumed I could string peaks together easily based on topo maps (like Castle and Cathedral, or Huron and North Apostle), only to discover last minute that the ridges connecting them were 5th class and non-trivial.
For WY my climbing partner Matt Lemke helped a lot with planning. Those peaks have pretty limited beta. Matt also helped planning for Montana, since he had already done the MT 12ers so I could ask him if a route I was planning to do would actually work.
For food I drove down with a week of food in my car, but pretty much lived out of gas stations for the rest of the trip. Lots of pizza and ice cream. In WY I bought 3 weeks of food at a grocery store and that lasted most of that leg.
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