OTHER Trip Report 09/05/2020

Report Type	Mini
Peak(s)
Date Posted	09/05/2020
Date Climbed	08/24/2019
Author	Fr3ako

Matterhorn - Lion Ridge (Italy)
Matterhorn - Lion Ridge, Italy (14,690') Being in the French Alps since almost 3 years now, I thought it would be nice to share my international climbing experience out here. August 24-25 2019 General weather: Pleasantly warm with slight breeze to warm Route: Day 1 - Breuil Cervinia to Refuge Carrel - 4h20min Day 2 - Refuge up to Matterhorn - 3h35min and down to Breuil Stats: ~6.71 km up to refuge + 3.03 km to summit Highest point: 14,690' I used to climb many 14ers during my time in Colorado before I have to leave the US but it didn't stop me to climb mountains, guess the text now is not going along with the pictures (or i didn't take time to do it properly) but it can save time reading for many of you. We started our 2-3 hours drive journey from Chamonix, France, where I live now, to Breuil Cervinia, Italy, our starting point. Massive and iconic mountain to climb. After taking the chairlift from downtown to the trailhead, we had a 4 hours walk to the refuge, steep but mainly easy with few scrambles here and there, The departure and arrival of the refuge is equipped by fixed ropes...it just sucks the oxygen out of you when you arrive in the afternoon and when you depart early in the morning. There are mainly 2 paths to get up the Matterhorn: 1) Through Switzerland and the Hornli ridge 2)Through Italy and the Lion ridge Problem is that the refuge in Hornli costs more than 200$ the night and that Swiss guides have to start first, you will not get your breakfast until they have left. In Italy, it's different, they are much more relax and allow you to cook your stuff outside the refuge...this is what we did. The climb up is technical enough with LOTS of exposure but we did good times to overtake many other teams but you sometimes face some steep faces and you can't stop your brain saying: "What's the f*** am I doing here! The descent is even more brutal and it is a long way down...I let the pictures speak for themselves anyway, it can give you a taste of what this mountain looks like. Beautiful, tricky but a nice reward at the end. My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload): Login required to view this map... Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Matterhorn - Lion Ridge (Italy)

Matterhorn - Lion Ridge, Italy (14,690')

Being in the French Alps since almost 3 years now, I thought it would be nice to share my international climbing experience out here.

August 24-25 2019
General weather: Pleasantly warm with slight breeze to warm

Route: Day 1 - Breuil Cervinia to Refuge Carrel - 4h20min
Day 2 - Refuge up to Matterhorn - 3h35min and down to Breuil

Stats: ~6.71 km up to refuge + 3.03 km to summit
Highest point: 14,690'

I used to climb many 14ers during my time in Colorado before I have to leave the US but it didn't stop me to climb mountains, guess the text now is not going along with the pictures (or i didn't take time to do it properly) but it can save time reading for many of you.

We started our 2-3 hours drive journey from Chamonix, France, where I live now, to Breuil Cervinia, Italy, our starting point. Massive and iconic mountain to climb. After taking the chairlift from downtown to the trailhead, we had a 4 hours walk to the refuge, steep but mainly easy with few scrambles here and there, The departure and arrival of the refuge is equipped by fixed ropes...it just sucks the oxygen out of you when you arrive in the afternoon and when you depart early in the morning.

There are mainly 2 paths to get up the Matterhorn:

1) Through Switzerland and the Hornli ridge

2)Through Italy and the Lion ridge

Problem is that the refuge in Hornli costs more than 200$ the night and that Swiss guides have to start first, you will not get your breakfast until they have left. In Italy, it's different, they are much more relax and allow you to cook your stuff outside the refuge...this is what we did.

The climb up is technical enough with LOTS of exposure but we did good times to overtake many other teams but you sometimes face some steep faces and you can't stop your brain saying: "What's the f*** am I doing here!

The descent is even more brutal and it is a long way down...I let the pictures speak for themselves anyway, it can give you a taste of what this mountain looks like. Beautiful, tricky but a nice reward at the end.

My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Wentzl	nice photos 9/5/2020 9:16pm Thanks for posting. Packing my bags.
chassis	Merci! Gratzie! Thank you! 9/6/2020 7:21am Thank you, this is an iconic peak. Great climb!
Wentzl	You might enjoy 9/19/2020 3:45pm Another view of your climb that was fun to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6SPJ8SWLxI&t=7s&ab_channel=DavidUr%C5%A1i%C4%8D

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

14ers.com

Social

Mobile App