Peak(s):  Capitol Peak  -  14,130 feet
Date Posted:  09/04/2020
Date Climbed:   09/03/2020
Author:  SpringsDuke
Additional Members:   HikesInGeologicTime, xDoogiex
 #57 Capitol Peak   

#57 Capitol Peak

20655_01
Success! If you read my previous report on Capitol from a month ago you know I failed the first time. Why? Cause I followed cairns that took me too low to this point here in the photo. I tried to climb that gully safely for two hours before realizing I was not on the 14ers website route. By then my energy was gone, the sun and wind had taken its toll on me, so I went home.


20655_02
What did I change for this trip? First I went looking for the lower route and found this photo from a very great trip report from this website. A Weekend at the Capitol By: bdloftin77 Capitol Peak 09/13/2014. You can see from his photo and the photo above that I took on my failed attempt that he and his team did climb that nasty gully. So it is possible but I still would not recommend. And on this successful trip you will see I found the higher route this time and was much better to summit. I also took everything back an hour. So the day before we hiked and camped an hour earlier and the next morning woke up an hour earlier as well. I also bought new insoles for my hiking boots since they were shot and killed my feet last trip.


20655_03
Camping at the lake again on this successful trip.


20655_04
Sunrise in the huge boulder field that leads to K2. This boulder field is a pain and takes time to climb from the Mt Daly saddle to K2.


20655_05
Still in the large boulder field looking up to K2.


20655_06
Climbing K2. Some ice and snow but easy to avoid. Before you hit the K2 summit you can take a right and drop off K2 an easier way then we did last time. But no cool pictures like last time of that downclimb.


20655_07
Pretty much all photos from here on out are after the knife edge. As this photo is while your still on the ridge proper after the knife edge.


20655_10
Still on the ridge.



20655_12
From here aim high and I advise you ignore the lower cairns. We know it does go and is doable now but even on this trip looking at that gully I got stuck on last trip I still didnt see a line I liked. VERY lose gully. Since the cairns are larger I started to think maybe its the winter route?


20655_13
Aim for just below the "shark fin" then traverse over that loose gully across the face of Capitol. In my opinion that is the crux of the route.


20655_14
Just below the ridge proper aiming high at the Shark Fin.


20655_15
From the same spot in the photo above but now looking back at the route behind me.


20655_16
A little further up the route but another photo of the route behind me. A cairn can be seen so there are cairns on this higher route as well.


20655_17


20655_18
Getting to the face to cross over the notch in the ridge.


20655_19


20655_20
Crossing the face of Capitol above the loose gully that I dislike with a passion. Again in my opinion this area is my crux since it is skinny, has loose dirt and small rocks, and is right above the steep nasty gully. At the end of the day though it still was not that bad. We never kicked down rocks or had any mishaps at all today!


20655_21


20655_22
Looking back at the route after crossing the face right before we took a right and climb up the ridge from the notch.


20655_23
Climbing the ridge to Capitol.


20655_24
Stay high for best solid climbing.


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20655_27
Looking back at the summit ridge.


20655_28
Looking forward at the summit.


20655_29
Summit Views. Pierre Lakes.


20655_30
Summit Views. Capitol Lake and campground.


20655_31


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20655_33
Summit Views. Snowmass.


20655_34
Going back down the same way we came. Again Ill focus on most of the photos I took before we hit the knife edge on the way back.


20655_35
Stay on the ridge till you hit this point and you can down climb to that dirt path.


20655_36
On the dirt path going back to the notch in the ridge to then cross the face of Capitol and get back on the knife edge ridge.


20655_37
Satans ridge from the notch area.


20655_38
Cairns marking the ridge down to the notch area.


20655_39
Climbing down to the notch


20655_40
Climbing out of the notch


20655_41
Cairns are still abundant up on this route


20655_42
Cairns leading to the face crossing


20655_43
Crossing the face again.


20655_44


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20655_47
Down climbing back to the ridge proper and the knife edges.


20655_51
Doogie standing on the knife edge


20655_52
Back at camp. Took 5 hours to summit from here.


20655_53
As I finish the last 14er this weekend I wanted to send a quick thanks to some I think deserve it. First would be Bill Middlebrook for the site here. As I continue to hike Colorado I will buy my gear from here to support as your site supported me on this journey. The first time I ever searched the internet for hiking/climbing beta it was for North Maroon, my favorite 14er. It was the trip report that WildWanderer did for North Maroon. I used your trip reports for all peaks I needed and would not have found this site of good beta on the climbs I wanted if it weren't for that post, thank you for that. HikesInGeologicTime thanks for being a badass and doing the hard peaks like Little Bear and Capitol with me. Also it was super fun to do winter climbing with you and getting Culebra when we first met off this site. And to all the other climbers I meet along the way, you were all great people and great climbing partners!


20655_56
These next photos will be out of order as they were taken by xDoogiex of myself while climbing on parts of Capitol past the knife edge. This would be me going down the ridge to the notch after leaving the summit.


20655_57
Working down the route back to K2.


20655_58
Going up the ridge to the summit after crossing the face of Capitol.


20655_59
Me on summit.


20655_60
Climbing up towards the Shark Fin.





Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
Jorgito
Good Stuff
09/04/2020 01:20
Congratulations! One more to go!


greenonion

Way to go back!
09/04/2020 08:00
I expected to see another TR from you of Cap! Congrats!


xDoogiex
Good times
09/04/2020 08:29
Great climbing with ya


HikesInGeologicTime

Awesome write-up!
09/04/2020 11:32
I€„˘m happy that hikers in years to come will have your report so they avoid making the same mistake we did back in July...would€„˘ve been super helpful to have such detailed pictures and descriptions!

It€„˘s been awesome doing snowflakes and the two hardest-rated fourteeners with you. Enjoy that champagne on San Luis - you€„˘ve earned it!


Peak200

Thank you
09/04/2020 19:31
I have this one coming up fairly soon
And I really appreciate the great pics:
The knife ridge I am not worried about it€„˘s the
Last section that people say is hideous.
These will really help and great job summitting


pbarn
Nice work!
09/05/2020 00:33
You€„˘ve knocked out Capitol - nice job! I remember when we slogged up Nellie Creek together to tick off Uncompaghre.

Really impressed - keep it up!


Mtnman200

Nice report & photos
09/05/2020 21:20
I see you only have San Luis Peak left, so nothing can stop you now.


mtngoatwithstyle
Yepii!!
09/08/2020 16:51
So glad you made it safely along with HikesinGeologictimes!!. And also truly happy that only San Luis is left!. Congratulations!!


TamHig
Excellent Report! Thnx!
09/26/2020 10:31
I created an account so that I could thank you! You helped me on Pyramid the past couple of weeks. I had to do it twice. Stopped at 13,800 the first time because I wasn't sure where I was. I had cut over too low and climbed the entire gray wall...twice as much as necessary. So we downclimbed correctly and I knew the route then for attempt #2. It was a smooth climb, no issues. Downclimb is always the hardest part especially in the class 4, but we made it. Now I'm getting ready to head to Capitol. If you see this message can you text me please 719-426-1968. I lived in the Springs for 6 years. Now in Edwards. We climbed Capitol last year about the same time but stopped at K2. I think I'll try to get over the Knifes Edge. : )
I've saved a lot of your photos...hopefully it looks the same when I'm there. Haha!



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