El Diente Peak Trip Report 07/12/2020

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	El Diente Peak - 14,175 feet
Date Posted	07/12/2020
Date Climbed	07/11/2020
Author	saxlover

nasty tooth
7/11/20 El Diente Peak Partner: Solo Trailhead: Kilpacker Route: South Slopes Total distance: 12 miles Elevation gain: 4300ft Start time: 2:50am Creek crossing: 4:05 am El Diente turnoff: 6:00 am Summit: 8:10am Leave summit: 8:20am Trailhead: 12:24pm Third time is the charm. I've been up here several times and have been turned around twice. Oddly enough, I went to the dentist a couple weeks ago after a long hiatus. I had a fun root canal and confessed that I was looking to hike the tooth (El Diente) soon. Whenever you speak to the dentist you have to be truthful, so I set out to get the hike done. Drove from Denver area to Kilpacker trailhead, once I opened the car door I immediately heard a loud noise. I looked across the field and saw a huge herd, flock, gaggle? of sheep, BAA, BAA!!!, BAA, BAAA! For a Friday night there were quite a few cars at the trailhead. I drove the Outback, put the back seats down, inflated a twin air mattress, and attempted to sleep. I never sleep well before a big hike. Alarm went off at 2:30 and woke me up, I think got about an hour or two of actual sleep. I got ready for the hike and was on the trail at 2:50am. Beautiful night for a hike, clear starry night. Made it to the creek crossing, and it wasn't high at all. I still managed to slip off the log and my left foot went into the creek. After the creek the trail begins to really gain altitude. From the trailhead to the creek its rolling up and down hills. A few minutes after crossing the creek I started to see some tents and people. They were all getting their stuff ready for the hike. I passed three more small camps, two of them had people out of their tents getting ready as well. I continued up, after treeline the trail is scree loose rock all the way to the summit. I knew this and you just tell yourself mentally that this scree shit will be here all damn day. Its a long steady push from tree line to the upper basin. I would look behind me a few times and could see a small stream on headlamps on the way up the trail. I love seeing a stream of headlamps on the trail. Everyone getting out there, being in nature, and living! I got to the El Diente trial turn off at around 6am. After treeline when you are heading you'll see the first gorgeous water, after that there is another small waterfall before the turnoff. After you pass the second waterfall, look for a big ass boulder with cairns on it (circled in one of my pictures). This is where you will turn left and start heading up. I had this site's trail pictures on my phone as well as printouts. I pulled out my pictures and took a few minutes to figure out if I was going the right way. I could see a faint trail heading up and it looked a familiar from my previous trips. As you initially start heading up, if the most of the snow is gone you should see what looks like a rock halfpipe type ditch on the left of the trail (outlined on one of my pictures. From this point on I kept looking at the trail pictures to do my best to stay on trail. I did manage to get off trail for a few minutes. It was at Photo #5, I didn't go across this snow field on the way, I did on the way down. While on my trail detour, the group behind me went the same way. I basically started to scramble up towards the black cliffs where I knew the trail would be under. After some unneeded scrambling I found the trail again. A little after that I started to meet people from the first two groups behind me. Nice to meet you James and Patrick! I saw the Red Rib (photo #8) and started to head for that. After passing that and starting to head up, the route finding becomes a little tricky. I kept pausing to look at pictures. After initially passing the red rib and looking up, there is a gully colored gully right next it going up. Avoid that, go a little further left of that and make your way up and look for the next grey gully on your left. Keeping look around. If you are thinking 'this is harder than it should be' stop, take a look around and there will be likely an easier way. After the red rib keep your route finding skills sharp and zig zag your way up to grey gully (photo #12) just below the Organ Pipes. It was about this point that the two groups (one of three and one of two) and I were all in the same area for the reminder of hike to the summit. It was fun meeting these folks and having a extra sets of eyes on the trail. From the below the Organ Pipes, I turned left and scrambled my way to the ridge. I referenced the trail pictures heavily to help guide the way. What a view from the ridge. I could look down into the Navajo Lake Basin as well see the surrounding peaks. What a beautiful morning. From the ridge to the summit, the three groups were essentially together to the summit. Everyone was kind and mindful of rock fall safety. Immediately before the summit there was dangerous looking snow. It was here in Photo #23, In the picture, there was snow from where that person is standing to the where the bottom arrow is, and all then the way down. We all ended up doing some careful scrambling up to the ridge and then to summit. Made it to the summit around 8:10am. Amazing views. Absolutely thrilled to finally be on that summit. It was a little bit crowded on the tiny ass summit. I took some pictures and started to head down. There were a couple other groups about to summit as well. I made my way to the ridge crossing into Kilpacker basin. There I saw another couple groups about to make the ridge. The way down is no fun with all the loose rock and scree EVERYWHERE. everywhere. On the way down the trail is always easier to see. I wanted to see where I messed up earlier finding the trail. I saw the error and went down the correct way. There was a snow field that I needed to cross (my 9th photo). I got to the snow took a couple steps to test it out. I quickly realized I needed some traction, so I put on my yaktrax. I almost got to the other side of the snow and slipped about three feet short. I slid down just a few feet as I was very close to the edge of the snow field. I got on the trail and zig zagged my way down. It was around this point that I heard large rocks crashing down. I looked up at the traverse way above me and I could see huge ass rocks coming down and a large dust cloud. I didn't hear anyone yell rock, so I yelled it where I was at. I stood there for awhile watching the traverse wondering if everyone was ok. A hiker in the group later posted that someone in their group put a hand on a small car sized boulder and it fell. They said everyone in there group was ok. Soon made it to the upper basin floor. At this point you are happy that you aren't on loose steep stuff anymore. From here to treeline its all scree. Such a gorgeous day out. Smiling ear to ear. Made it back to trailhead around 12:24pm. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

nasty tooth

7/11/20 El Diente Peak
Partner: Solo
Trailhead: Kilpacker
Route: South Slopes
Total distance: 12 miles
Elevation gain: 4300ft
Start time: 2:50am

Creek crossing: 4:05 am

El Diente turnoff: 6:00 am

Summit: 8:10am
Leave summit: 8:20am
Trailhead: 12:24pm

Third time is the charm. I've been up here several times and have been turned around twice. Oddly enough, I went to the dentist a couple weeks ago after a long hiatus. I had a fun root canal and confessed that I was looking to hike the tooth (El Diente) soon. Whenever you speak to the dentist you have to be truthful, so I set out to get the hike done.

Drove from Denver area to Kilpacker trailhead, once I opened the car door I immediately heard a loud noise. I looked across the field and saw a huge herd, flock, gaggle? of sheep, BAA, BAA!!!, BAA, BAAA! For a Friday night there were quite a few cars at the trailhead. I drove the Outback, put the back seats down, inflated a twin air mattress, and attempted to sleep. I never sleep well before a big hike. Alarm went off at 2:30 and woke me up, I think got about an hour or two of actual sleep. I got ready for the hike and was on the trail at 2:50am.

Beautiful night for a hike, clear starry night. Made it to the creek crossing, and it wasn't high at all. I still managed to slip off the log and my left foot went into the creek. After the creek the trail begins to really gain altitude. From the trailhead to the creek its rolling up and down hills. A few minutes after crossing the creek I started to see some tents and people. They were all getting their stuff ready for the hike. I passed three more small camps, two of them had people out of their tents getting ready as well. I continued up, after treeline the trail is scree loose rock all the way to the summit. I knew this and you just tell yourself mentally that this scree shit will be here all damn day. Its a long steady push from tree line to the upper basin. I would look behind me a few times and could see a small stream on headlamps on the way up the trail. I love seeing a stream of headlamps on the trail. Everyone getting out there, being in nature, and living!

I got to the El Diente trial turn off at around 6am. After treeline when you are heading you'll see the first gorgeous water, after that there is another small waterfall before the turnoff. After you pass the second waterfall, look for a big ass boulder with cairns on it (circled in one of my pictures). This is where you will turn left and start heading up. I had this site's trail pictures on my phone as well as printouts. I pulled out my pictures and took a few minutes to figure out if I was going the right way. I could see a faint trail heading up and it looked a familiar from my previous trips. As you initially start heading up, if the most of the snow is gone you should see what looks like a rock halfpipe type ditch on the left of the trail (outlined on one of my pictures.

From this point on I kept looking at the trail pictures to do my best to stay on trail. I did manage to get off trail for a few minutes. It was at Photo #5, I didn't go across this snow field on the way, I did on the way down. While on my trail detour, the group behind me went the same way. I basically started to scramble up towards the black cliffs where I knew the trail would be under. After some unneeded scrambling I found the trail again. A little after that I started to meet people from the first two groups behind me. Nice to meet you James and Patrick!

I saw the Red Rib (photo #8) and started to head for that. After passing that and starting to head up, the route finding becomes a little tricky. I kept pausing to look at pictures. After initially passing the red rib and looking up, there is a gully colored gully right next it going up. Avoid that, go a little further left of that and make your way up and look for the next grey gully on your left. Keeping look around. If you are thinking 'this is harder than it should be' stop, take a look around and there will be likely an easier way. After the red rib keep your route finding skills sharp and zig zag your way up to grey gully (photo #12) just below the Organ Pipes. It was about this point that the two groups (one of three and one of two) and I were all in the same area for the reminder of hike to the summit. It was fun meeting these folks and having a extra sets of eyes on the trail.

From the below the Organ Pipes, I turned left and scrambled my way to the ridge. I referenced the trail pictures heavily to help guide the way. What a view from the ridge. I could look down into the Navajo Lake Basin as well see the surrounding peaks. What a beautiful morning. From the ridge to the summit, the three groups were essentially together to the summit. Everyone was kind and mindful of rock fall safety. Immediately before the summit there was dangerous looking snow. It was here in Photo #23, In the picture, there was snow from where that person is standing to the where the bottom arrow is, and all then the way down. We all ended up doing some careful scrambling up to the ridge and then to summit. Made it to the summit around 8:10am. Amazing views. Absolutely thrilled to finally be on that summit.

It was a little bit crowded on the tiny ass summit. I took some pictures and started to head down. There were a couple other groups about to summit as well. I made my way to the ridge crossing into Kilpacker basin. There I saw another couple groups about to make the ridge. The way down is no fun with all the loose rock and scree EVERYWHERE. everywhere. On the way down the trail is always easier to see. I wanted to see where I messed up earlier finding the trail. I saw the error and went down the correct way. There was a snow field that I needed to cross (my 9th photo). I got to the snow took a couple steps to test it out. I quickly realized I needed some traction, so I put on my yaktrax. I almost got to the other side of the snow and slipped about three feet short. I slid down just a few feet as I was very close to the edge of the snow field. I got on the trail and zig zagged my way down.

It was around this point that I heard large rocks crashing down. I looked up at the traverse way above me and I could see huge ass rocks coming down and a large dust cloud. I didn't hear anyone yell rock, so I yelled it where I was at. I stood there for awhile watching the traverse wondering if everyone was ok. A hiker in the group later posted that someone in their group put a hand on a small car sized boulder and it fell. They said everyone in there group was ok.

Soon made it to the upper basin floor. At this point you are happy that you aren't on loose steep stuff anymore. From here to treeline its all scree. Such a gorgeous day out. Smiling ear to ear. Made it back to trailhead around 12:24pm.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

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