This report will serve as a summary and photo journal of climbing Mt. Sneffels on February, 2, 2020, mid winter in what appears to be a "normal" season as concerns typical snowfall and temperatures so far this year.

Winter access to Yankee Boy Basin is closed to vehicle traffic past the locked gate at Senator Gulch, which is somewhere around 3 1/2 miles from the turn off from Hwy. 550. The road is typically plowed and often sanded, but 4wd will be required to get up the hills nonetheless. This year a large area has been plowed out to accommodate parking and there is plenty of room for 15 or so vehicles.

I arrived around 9:00 a.m. and began hiking on the road, which is plowed for the next 2.5 miles to the Revenue Mine, located just a little ways past the turn off to Imogene Pass. (emergency phone located here). After the Revenue Mine snowshoes or skis required for further travel. I had snowshoes and followed a well established trench up to, and past the outhouse which marks the lower 4wd trailhead. After another 30 minutes or so I caught up to a woman named Lisa and her dog, who had been packing the trail so well for me up to that point. This was just about at treeline, after which I did not see another soul for the rest of the day.

There was a windswept trail that continued on, which I suspected was left by Angry, based on her condition report, but later learned that it had been left by ScreeSurfer, who had just climbed Sneffels the day before. (Thanks again ScreeSurfer! I would not have finished without your inspired track.)

Walking in the track was straightforward and enjoyable. Conditions were basically perfect. About 30 degrees and no wind and a firm snowpack. Despite the favorable conditions, I was not making the best time. Winter doldrums and all. But it was 1:00 p.m. when I finally reached the upper 4wd trailhead.

With nothing but blue sky and a half moon to make a night hike sound like a good idea, I didn't consider the time an issue. And with the trail beaten ahead of me, I just followed on.

The post near the center of the previous photo marks where the trail splits. To the left, takes you to Blue Lakes Pass, which is on the skyline, just left of center. To the right, the proper start of the S. Slopes route. First timers take note. If you start up the slopes before this, you will end up on Kismet Pk., which is what I did some years ago. (1995) I mention this because every now and then I see folks scrambling up there and wonder if Kismet is their goal or if they just got anxious.

Anyway, back to our story. Here is a view of the South Slopes.

You can see there are still plenty of rocks poking out here and there on the South Slopes. Seemed to me that there was plenty of snow so that skiers can avoid rocks taking a track in the fall line.

The track I was following looked like ScreeSurfer kept his snowshoes on all the way to the top of the slope, to the start of the Lavender Col. I ditched mine much lower down, based on past experience I expected the snow to firm up on the upper parts of the slope. Not today. I would have saved much time and energy if I kept them on as well. Oh well, live and learn. Much post holing and some mild cursing to get up the South Slopes. After 3:00 p.m. by the time I finally got there.

The snow on the saddle was windblown and very hardpacked. I did not bring crampons but most people would probably want the added security on just this short bit. Elsewhere up the col, I think they would have been more of a hindrance, especially on the rocky exit which is an alternative to the summer route V-Notch. But personal preference.

The excellent steps kicked up the Lavender Col by ScreeSurfer were mostly in great shape. About half way up the stability of the snow deteriorated and post holing became an issue. There is an alternate exit a couple hundred feet below the V Notch where an old rope anchor can be seen.

I have used this several times. I got to about an arms length from the rope to scout it out, but decided to stick with the standard route. The alternative puts you about half way up the rocky scramble that is described elsewhere as an alternative to climbing the Lavender Col. On this day it was very steep and too hardpack and icy to attempt without crampons. In the spring, when things loosen up a bit, it makes a really fun butt slide!

The last couple hundred feet, to get up to and past the V-Notch was on very loose, unconsolidated snow. Even with the footprints from the day before, creativity and determination was required to crawl up this last bit. I think about 30 minutes to move about 100 feet seems about right.

As mentioned before, the V-Notch gets hopelessly choked with snow each winter. There are several alternatives, both above and below the notch.

Climbing out of the Col was pretty straightforward. Decent hand holds on rock and good packed snow footholds. Seemed a little sketch, thinking about reversing it. But a pleasant surprise was that it actually went easier on the way out, facing out and just scooching down on your butt.

From where the previous photo was taken, you could turn and look down on the V-Notch exit and also look up and see the summit not far off.

For me, the most technically difficult move on the whole climb was a bit of a stretch step necessary to get from the rock back onto the snow for the final pitch. This always varies with conditions, but today there was a blank section of rock, some steep loose snow and a long run out. This one was easier going, because you could commit to the snow. Coming back, to regain the rock, was a little trickier.

I made the summit just a little before 5:00 p.m. 8 hours after leaving the truck. I checked with ScreeSurfer who managed to break the trail and finish in 5 hours. Hats off to that!

I didn't dally too much on the summit. I wanted to get at least back to the upper 4wd trailhead before dark. As it turned out, I managed to get back down to that point in just about 1 hour. 4 hours up and 1 hour down on the upper part of the mountain. All day was 8 hours up and 3 hours down.

The evening could not have been any nicer. What wind there was earlier in the day died down and it was dead calm. Temperature dropped a bit, but not colder than 20 degrees. The walk down to the truck from the upper 4wd trailhead took about two hours by moonlight.