OTHER Trip Report 11/28/2019

Report Type	Mini
Peak(s)	Aiguille d'Entreve
Date Posted	11/28/2019
Date Climbed	06/23/2013
Author	pvnisher

Aiguille d'Entreve Traverse
Realized I had this video on YouTube about the Aiguille d'Entreve Traverse, one of my absolute favorites, and had never posted it. One of the most sustained, exposed climbs I've ever done. Ok, the most. It's just hours of knife edge, seeing the bottom on both sides, heels over into the air. Really amazing. So here it goes, all the way back in 2013. Forgive footage quality, there wasn't 4k Hypersmooth GoPro and drone action way back then. YouTube Video Report!

Aiguille d'Entreve Traverse

Realized I had this video on YouTube about the Aiguille d'Entreve Traverse, one of my absolute favorites, and had never posted it.

One of the most sustained, exposed climbs I've ever done. Ok, the most. It's just hours of knife edge, seeing the bottom on both sides, heels over into the air. Really amazing. So here it goes, all the way back in 2013. Forgive footage quality, there wasn't 4k Hypersmooth GoPro and drone action way back then.

YouTube Video Report!

Comments or Questions

pfiore1	Damn 11/28/2019 5:31pm That is a sick and super fun looking ridge especially as a loop. Just watching made my stomach turn. I'd love the opportunity to do that route, especially if the rock is as solid as you said in your other TR. Nicely done. Being in the French Alps, was it covered in pitons or did you have to place a lot of your own protection? Pat
pvnisher	pro 11/29/2019 10:02am There were a few bolts or spikes from which to do quick belays. Often it's just kinda wrapping the rope around an iron rod for a fast belay, rather than using a device. Although there were a few proper belays and stances with bolts. Don't recall using pitons. It's a popular route and the Euro guides do their best to make things "safe". But that wasn't often anyway, mainly simul climbing. On the ridge proper you just kinda thread the rope between the rock horns. If someone falls then your bodyweight on the other side (and friction with the rock) is supposed to keep you from cratering. Would it work? Probably. Your body ends up functioning as the nut. Would both of you probably get hurt? Probably at least a little! That's 100% the method on snowy ridges, too. If someone falls off you're supposed to jump off the other side. I've never done it nor seen it, I'd like to hope I could, but man... You don't really have any other options, though. On steep snow ridges what alternative is there? Place a snow picket or bollard every rope length? If it'd even hold, you'd be out all day. See my Monch video and Cosmiques Arete, and probably also the Mont Blanc du Tacul video. A few nuts could be used, but definitely not a place to bring cams. Not because they wouldn't work, but just kinda unnecessary.

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