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Peak(s)  Longs Peak  -  14,259 feet
Date Posted  07/14/2019
Date Climbed   07/12/2019
Author  mnsebourn
Additional Members   mnsebourn
 Keyhole Route (post Yellowstone)   

Longs Peak, 7/12/19

I‘ve had my eye on Longs Peak for several years, but it’s never worked out.

Finally, this year, on the way home from a family vacation to Yellowstone and Grand Teton NP, I got my chance and decided to go for it.

I was nervous. My window was small—all of one day—and though I’ve summited over a dozen 14ers and dabbled with some “class 3” caliber terrain at home in the Ozarks and Ouachitas, I’d certainly never attempted anything like Longs.

“Don’t get summit fever,” I told myself. “If you fear for your safety or the weather goes south, just turn around. Like they say, the mountain’s not going anywhere.”

Anyway, I set my alarm for midnight, got myself and my stuff together, made the drive from Denver to the trailhead, and was on the trail by 2.

I’m a fit hiker. I’ve done Whitney in a day and run a marathon, but I’ll never be the fastest guy on the mountain and wanted to maximize my chances of being back in the trees before the sky started going gray.

I enjoyed my solitary, uphill stroll through the dark woods and around Mount Lady Washington and found myself at the keyhole conversing with three other hikers (from Maryland, California, and Oklahoma if my memory is correct) by daybreak.

“I really don’t know if I like you on that mountain alone,” my wife had told me the day before.

“It’s Longs Peak in July,” I’d responded. “I won’t be alone.”

These three gentlemen proved me right, and we pretty much made the entire trek to the top together.

I found the ledges enjoyable and not too intimidating and was relieved when the snow crossing I’d read about here and on the NPS website proved to be grippy and trenched.

Not far beyond this late-ledges snow crossing, though, was the trough, and I wasn’t quite mentally prepared for what we found here.

The entirety of the standard bullseye route was covered in snow that my spikes and trekking pole weren’t about to get me up.

So I scaled the 600 or so feet up the rocks to the left of the snow.

Maybe there wasn’t a good option on those rocks that day, or maybe my route finding capabilities just aren’t all that great, but I found myself in/on some extremely “sketchy” terrain, digging my fingertips into hairline cracks on massive, smooth slabs.

“How in the heck am I going to down-climb this?” I thought more than once.

(Thanks to the climber from Maine who helped out with the route finding on the way down!)

The narrows were easy and thrilling, thanks to all that open air and beautiful views, and the homestretch, I thought, was an easier version of the trough.

Final thoughts: Longs is everything it’s cracked up to be. It’s a climb, not a hike, and it deserves nothing but your fear and respect, even on its best day.

Longs was the most difficult peak I’ve done yet, though not the most exhausting. (Blanca from the lower trailhead.)

I hope the hiker who fell in the ledges/trough area is okay, and thanks to all who hiked and climbed with me that day.




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
arianna2
User
Nice
7/15/2019 7:23am
Thanks for the mini-trip report. Does it seem like the snow might be gone in a couple weeks or pretty deep?


mnsebourn
User
Re Arianna2:
7/15/2019 8:26am
I don't have the experience necessary (I'm in Colorado for maybe a week out of the year, usually in June) to guess, but I've heard or read that August 1 is the soonest Longs Peak could be in full summer conditions. Consider the uncertainty of that source.

The snow I encountered was about two feet deep in parts.


jacobk
User
Maine hiker
7/15/2019 1:40pm
Hey, it was nice having someone to tackle down-climbing the Trough with!


Baugust
User
Footwear
7/15/2019 2:43pm
What footwear did you and your partner use across the snow/scrambling?


ejfred
User
Well Done!
7/15/2019 3:54pm
Good on you for having a safe and wise perspective, sounds like your patience was rewarded. Congratulations! Longs was my first 14er many years back, and it kicked my butt. Only tougher day I ever had was I think similar to yours...Blanca and Ellingwood from below Lake Como road.


mnsebourn
User
Various feedback:
7/15/2019 4:30pm
Jacobnice to see you're here! I was wondering.

BAugustI brought spikes but didn't put them on. I carefully crossed the trenched out snow in the ledges with my hiking shoes and trekking pole.

ejfredThanks. And yeah, Blanca from the lower trailhead in one day was absolutely exhausting for me, and I didn't even get Ellingwood while I was up there.


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