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Peak(s)  Mt. Elbert  -  14,438 feet
"South Elbert"  -  14,129 feet
Date Posted  06/02/2019
Date Climbed   05/26/2019
Author  redheadontherocks
 Glorious solo day on Mt. Elbert's SE ridge route in snow!   

TRIP REPORT- Mount Elbert. May 26th, 2019, 10 miles RT, 7h31 min

It was a glorious day up Mount Elbert!!!! 14er number 20 for me and one of the most challenging and rewarding climbs. I did the southeast ridge from the Black Cloud trailhead just past Twin Lakes. I rolled up Saturday evening and was expecting to see another car at the lot, but there was nobody! I set up my little camp right at the start of the trail, made a fire, and then got cozy in the back of my FJ Cruiser for the night.


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The next morning there were still no sign of other cars or people that would be joining me on this route! I started my hike a little after 5am, but forgot something and turned back. Ugg. So didn’t really get started until 5:30AM. The trail was clear, and not much snow until 1.25 miles and I put on my little micro spikes. So, the route reviews and map for this route really didn’t do me too much good since it was in the snow and there was not a really a “trail.” Thankfully there were friendly footprints from those before me that I followed.


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And hoped that they were the right ones. Haha. The trail was also steep right out of the gate and made me feel horribly out of shape. Welcome to 14ers! After winding through the trees and snow the trail came to a clearing with a whole bunch of downed trees and avalanche debris. WOW. Pretty intense to hike right across the aftermath of one of those. I was told Avy risk was low, but it still heightened my senses


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. Here the “trail” just goes STRAIGHT UP THE GULLY and along side the avalanche path. This was definitely the “winter route” straight up and not the summer trail that switch backed up the other side. I don’t know what I would have done if there were no footprints to follow at this point.


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About halfway up the path crosses over the avalanche path again. A intense 60 seconds. Then you turn left straight up the side of the mountain.


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It was a mix of snow and exposed rock. Just watch your step. Micro spikes were great in the snow, but then on the mixed terrain they do not provide great traction on rocks. Also, be careful through the rocks and twisting an ankle. Its quite variable with the snow. It was a pretty gruling 2.5 miles to the top of the ridge when I could finally see where I was going and Mount Elbert! At this point you are at 13,580 ft, gained 3,880 ft from the trailhead and have 75% of the climbing done! And I finally was in the sun! The hike west along the ridge was not bad and for the first time I caught glimpses of a faint trail in the exposed areas.


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About .75 miles and you are on top of SOUTH MOUNT ELBERT! (14, 134ft!!) Woo Hoo! Double 14er day!!!


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xcitement was fleeting then looking at Mount Elbert and seeing how far down and back UP I need to go to get there. I also saw people at the top of Elbert that ascended the NE ridge. I wasns’t totally alone!


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At this point I had been carrying my gosh darn snowshoes on my pack and hadn’t used them yet. I tucked them under a rock on South Elbert to grab on my way back down again. I feel like this is also when the wind really picked up. I think I read 30-35 mph in the forcast? The snow had all really cool patterns from the wind and looked like san dunes.


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With my microspikes I was able to skirt along the rocks and shallow snow and get good traction. It was actually a very mellow grade and climb compared to what I had to do to get up to South Elbert. Fun little hike across a semi narrow ridge and before I knew it, I was at the summit of Mount Elbert! My garmin said 5.1 miles, in 4h44min, on the summit around 10:15am. Felt like a slog on the way up, but in retrospect a solid time


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. I spent 12 min on the summit. Saw some other hikers, took pictures, but the wind was BRUTAL and I really wanted to get back down before any other inclement weather started brewing. I swear my pack full of gear almost blew away it was so windy! The other side was probably more shielded from the wind than the my SE ridge.


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Slammed my double-espresso cold brew coffee and hit the trail back down! Damn near skipping! Haha. I like to pick up the pace and jog whenever I can. I did start to get concerned that my shoeshoes I stashed near South Elbert might have been blow away. And I had to search around for where I put them. Thought I totally lost them up there…and I actually borrowed them from my room mate, and didn’t want to tell him that his snowshoes got lost up at 14,000 ft. lol. The next mile was a tough one for me. Clouds were starting to form, it was windy and cold. I was tired of not being able to feel my fingers, and I was just weaving and scampering through the rocks and snow.


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There was also no/little sign of any of my foot prints from the way up. Wind had pretty much obliterated them. DON’T count on those for the return! I also started to drop a little elevation and traverse across towards where I needed to go. And then things looked unfamiliar. Scary feeling. I realized I didn’t want to lose too much elevation and risk coming to a drop off or cornice, OR start down the wrong gully. I traversed across this really steep snow field that was a little too much grade for just micro-spikes, and really had to dig my heels in. I then kept hiking straight across and I could see the faint outline of the switch backing trail. I knew I didn’t want to keep going all the way towards that trail. I stopped and took the time and looked UP. I tried to find my visual markers that I saw on my way up. Certain big rocks, out croppings, where I took a break, etc. At 2.5 miles into my return I KNEW I should be starting down. I looked at all the groupings of trees at the bottom and figured out which ones I came out of. My nice blue sky had also turned into lots of big gray clouds. It was time to get DOWN. I backtracked a little bit and started my way down on the mixed terrain of rocks and snow. Again, really stepping mindfully. Microspikes were not good traction on the rocks. I was trusting my gut and sense of direction at this point, but I was not 100% certain until I finally came across one of my footprints from the way up. It was a GLORIOUS feeling. Still, I was not totally out of the woods. I would find a print, then lose it in the rocks, but kept picking my way carefully down the steep terrain. Then I came to the very obvious path I took across the gully. Looking up, I checked out some of the little cornices above, and quickly made my way across.


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Big sense of relief at this point. I now had a defined path in the snow to follow, I knew exactly where I was going, AND I had some fun glissades down the snow covered slopes.


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Crossed the clearing of all the downed and uprooted trees, and avalanche debris, and headed into the trees for a nice mellow meandering downhill.


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The snow was a little softer and I did sink in a few times, but it was still not enough to warrant putting on snowshoes. If it was consistently and considerably warmer during the day, it might have been a different story. So, I was glad I at least carried my snow shoes. I cranked up some music on my phone and sang and jogged my tired and soggy self down the trail. Pretty happy to reach my FJ and take off my wet boots. I had a little less than 10 miles on my Garmin, and 7:30 RT. (2h47min to descend).


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Now, I don’t want to give myself an overinflated sense of security, BUT I was really pleased with myself and my route finding on a tricky trail. The second I realized something unfamiliar, I stopped and took the time to figure it out. I was aware of my sourroundings and location on the way up, and it payed off when I needed to call upon those visuals to find my way back down. I’m not a mountaineering pro, but I was able to call upon enough of my experience from 20 14ers (now), ice climbing, back packing, and just being observant in the backcountry. Some might say that it was not smart to do this alone regardless of all that. But, hiking these mountains solo is a different sense of special accomplishment, and experience. Mount Elbert has a special place in my memory now. I highly recommend this route over the standard class 1 Northeast ridge.

*on another note, I have done almost all my 14ers solo because I like to move at a quick pace, and not drag out an already long hike. As I start to tackle some of the more challenging mountains out there I will be seeking other expeditious and motivated 14er freaks : )

*and another side note, at the request of my mother I just got a Garmin inReach mini as an early birthday gift from her. Adventure safely friends!


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Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
arianna2
User
congrats
6/2/2019 2:43pm
on your independence, strength, and courage. Be careful out there.


Trotter
User
hah
6/2/2019 7:25pm
funny emotion selfies in there.


davebks
User
killer
6/3/2019 10:52am
badass! nice work!!


rice78746
User
good report
6/4/2019 7:06pm
I hope you take care, if your were my daughter I'd be mad... but what a fun report.


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