Longs Peak Trip Report 01/15/2018

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Longs Peak - 14,259 feet Dallas Peak - 13,812 feet
Date Posted	01/15/2018
Modified	03/04/2018
Date Climbed	07/09/2017
Author	d_baker
Additional Members	rijaca

Chasing Centennials
*Chasing Centennials* Sunday, July 2nd 2017 "Solo" Final 14er Mission Longs Peak (14,255') Front Range Great start to the day Sunday, July 9th 2017 Final Centennial Mission w/Ricky Carr Dallas Peak (13,809') San Juan Mountains Ricky on the summit of Dallas Peak Trail Head(s): respectively Longs Peak TH Mill Creek TH Route(s): respectively Keyhole route -- day trip S face -> E Face -> N face -> Summit! Or, more simply stated, the "standard" route. Completed with a one night/two day backpack trip. Difficulty: respectively Longs was probably considered by RMNP Rangers as still to be in the "technical" phase of the summer season; although snow was limited to Trough and could be bypassed on its left by staying on rock. The Homestretch had mostly unavoidable snow. I brought an ice axe & crampons -- axe was used during ascent on snow sections and crampons worn on descent of Homestretch. Climbers descending the Homestretch on Longs Dallas Peak still had snow on the S face in the gully leading through the initial cliff band �‘ however on the descent we avoided the snow. On the N face, snow was encountered at the base of the crux pitch to the summit, and snow was below the chockstone on the rappel. Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of the snow below the crux pitch to the summit, as I was focused on getting the job done! The snow leading to crux pitch made it interesting because wet rubber on my summer hiking boots didn't instill confidence on the rock. Ricky rapping off of summit of Dallas Introduction Ahh....the Centennials. Little did I know back in the fall of 2001 when I hiked Pikes Peak (up Barr Trail) that I would go on to hike, or sometimes climb, all of the 14ers and the remaining peaks that make up the 100 highest in Colorado. Pikes Peak was my first 14er, and it had become a goal to hike to the top sometime in the first few years of living in Colorado Springs since I looked up at it every day! All I knew was, "someday, someday" I will hike to the top. When that day finally happened, I was very proud of myself for sticking with my goal. Little did I know about other 14ers. It wouldn't be until spending time at Barr Camp over the winter of '01/'02 that I learned hiking 14ers was a thing. Jeff Allen, the caretaker of Barr Camp at the time, filled me in on the peaks and also suggested I join the Pikes Peak Group of the CMC (Colorado Mountain Club) so I could take some courses and meet partners. The Basic Mountaineering School (aka, BMS) is comprised of classes focused on the fundamentals of mountaineering, primarily Colorado mountaineering. In BMS, I learned how to read a map while using a compass; I was introduced to rock climbing and rappelling, which led to learning to ice climb; and, the one aspect I was most interested in -- I learned how to use an ice axe and how to self-arrest. A week after taking the snow climbing class portion of BMS, I did what I consider my first couloir climb up the Y couloir on Pikes Peak. (Note: In BMS, we climb the couloirs above Glen Cove on Pikes Peak for training.) Climbing in the Y couloir on Pikes Peak Through BMS, I did meet other hikers interested in the 14ers, and we would team up for several trips over the years. Eventually, I also did a BMS "grad climb" with fellow students where we picked the peak and route, planned it out, and then executed the trip with the guidance & support of an instructor or two. We chose the N ridge route on Kit Carson. Scrambling the N ridge of Kit Carson, with fresh hail from night before to spice it up -- late Sept '04 Those early years of learning the skills that I think are important for building confidence to try harder peaks, were, in my opinion, essential to my success of completing the Top 100 in Colorado. In my case anyway, I think it was a necessary step in my growth as a Colorado mountaineer. Brian England, Dave Dietz, & Darin on summit of Sneffels -- Sept '03 Bill Tarvin, Carson Black, & Darin on summit of Maroon Pk after traverse from N Maroon -- July '05 Darin on summit of Vestal after climbing Wham Ridge w/Bill Tarvin -- Aug '05 Lisa Heckel & Darin on Castle Pk, Lisa's last 14er -- Aug '07 Approach to Hopeful Couloir on Mt Hope -- May '08 Dani & Mike Silvestro on K2 after we climbed Capitol -- Aug '09 Carson Black & Darin on last day of a successful Chicago Basin trip -- May '10 Darin spreading ashes of brother Dale on summit of Turret Peak -- Dec '11 Steve Gladbach on summit of Pigeon Pk -- Dec '11 Granted, in the bigger picture of mountaineering, accomplishing the Top 100 in Colorado may not seem like much of a big deal, and it's probably only important to those that finish the list. But it was my list. And I did it the way I wanted, or at least in the way it unfolded. The route to the finish line had its bumps, setbacks, and emotional toil, but the route to get here was life altering and was every bit worth it to complete. So many moments along the way are etched into my memory, and it's those moments that make the list special. Rio Grande Pyramid where I spread some of Steve Gladbach's ashes earlier that day -- July '14 Ricky Carr in notch of Jagged Mtn before wrapping around S side to summit -- July '16 Throughout the years of chasing the list of centennials, there were times it was the focal point of my weekend adventures; in particular in the early couple of years of hiking 14ers. Like many that get the "14er bug" I was trying to do a 14er or more every weekend! Then I started hiking 13ers (W Spanish Pk was my first) and enjoyed the experience of fewer people with additional mystery to the route as they are not always straight forward like most 14ers tend to be, or at least the easier peaks. I'm not sure what my first centennial 13er was, but it's likely it could have been either Crystal Peak or N Apostle & Ice Mountain, sometime in 2003. But I knew I would do the centennials as well as the 14ers, and at some point I thought I would finish with Longs to top it all off. Over the years, I plugged away at remaining peaks, some years only getting one or two new ones. In the years that my list wasn't a focus, I was generally hiking other 13ers on someone else's list, which was fine with me! Entering 2017, I had three peaks remaining on my list. I wanted to get Phoenix Peak completed before Longs and Dallas. Terri, a partner and friend on many alpine adventures, joined me for an overnight trip to get Phoenix. I had talked with Mike (Dad Mike) about going with him the week before, but I know my limitations and I know how fast and strong he is! I told him it would turn into a solo trip for both of us if I joined him because I would not be able to keep up! Besides, I got first hand info from him on conditions after he did it! We went the following weekend to poach. ;) Terri Horvath on summit of Phoenix Pk -- March '17 I was too tired to sit up. See Mike, even with an overnight it kicked my ass! Darin is spent on the summit of Phoenix Pk -- March '17 All of the aforementioned & photographed moments have friends that have played an important part to my growth and experiences, not to mention a lot of good times together on the list of 100! Without them, along with many others not shown above, my story would have been quite different, but I'm glad they've been a part of mine. The Last 14er Long Peak's iconic face, seen from Lady Washington -- June '17 I did my first 14er by myself. I didn't tell anyone what or where I was going, other than Jeff at Barr Camp as I passed through. My last 14er wasn't much different. I didn't tell anyone, just as I wanted it. (Irresponsible? Maybe but you'll get over it.) *Pictures to tell the story�. Rising Tide Who doesn't like boulders? Never really alone Connect the dots Glacier Gorge below Top of the 'Trough' and about to turn the corner to the 'Narrows' The start of the 'Narrows' From the summit...* My friend A climber topping out on the Homestretch The summit felt anti-climactic of a finish but it still felt nice to have the last 14er checked off. If I ever get my head right and my body back in good climbing shape, I would like to do Kieners and other routes on Longs. I've got work to do before that can happen! No. 100 Ricky and I met in Montrose on Friday night at a hotel where we spent the night before driving to Telluride on Saturday morning to start our trip. We hit the trail sometime by 9am with heavy overnight packs w/climbing gear. I brought two 30m 8.5mm(ish) twin ropes, four pieces of pro (#13 nut, cams #'s 1, .4, & .75), 4 shoulder length slings w/biners, one 3' rabbit ears sling, & ~20' piece of webbing & leaver biner for rap anchor if needed (and it wasn't needed because existing webbing looked good). Due to the snow at base of crux pitch, the belay was out on a �diving board' type of protruding rock and thus when I topped the pitch, I was short on rope so Ricky had to tear down belay anchor and move to base of crux pitch (in snow) to allow more rope for me to get to suitable anchor to bring him up. If I were to climb Dallas again, I would consider bringing a 60m skinny rope. Pictures to tell the story� The views from the Highline Trail aren't too shabby Camp BD @ creek crossing on S side of trail Climb Day We left camp sometime by 4am or so. Knowing our pace, I wanted to get on the crux sections as early as possible so we wouldn't have to rush in the event of bad weather. The forecast was reasonable but we didn't want to push it. Approaching snow gully that leads to first cliff band on S face (5am) Looking down the S slopes Starting to turn the corner for the E side of the mountain (6:50am, yeah we�re that kind of slow) I didn't think the route finding was very challenging due to obvious climber's trail and cairns. What snow was left on the S face didn't obscure the trail much so it was easy to stay on track. Skies were favorable for a low stress ascent in regards to weather. Summit block on the right, but we still have some traversing to do Interesting rock formations with Sneffels beyond 4th class section, started just above the snow Top of the 4th class wall, w/trekking poles at the anchor for a rap (which we used on our descent) Chimney just before getting on N side of mountain (I found the moves awkward and we used the rope through here) Now on the N side of the mountain -- looking at Sneffels and one of the Blue Lakes below The short ledge traverse to bottom of crux pitch (out of sight but it�s above the grass shelf center of photo, with the red Ricky coming across the ledge system to base of crux, and the last picture I took before the summit *From the summit�* Looking W toward W Dallas & T0 Ricky in full contemplation The rappel station at first was confusing for me as I couldn't find the master point/rap rings right away. They're tucked back in the gap between the big boulder and the underlying rock. As usual for me, getting on the rap was awkward at first until I discovered the nice foot shelf below master point. Maybe I'm alone in this problem?? Anyway, we were able to rap through the chockstone but the rope came up short on the snow field below chockstone, so down climbing some snow was in order. But it was soft at that point so it went ok. We were rapping off the summit by 10am. Ricky out in front on the E side during our descent Coming back to the S side (11:15am) We were back to camp by 12:30/1pm. We ate a lunch, and slowly packed up for our hike out. THE END. ;) Thanks for reading, Darin NOTE: At the time of this writing, there are 425 trip reports on Longs, 305 of those are in the months of July thru September. So you're welcome, here's one more! And I sprayed this report with more photos of me than I've ever done in all of my reports combined. You're welcome. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Chasing Centennials

Sunday, July 2nd 2017
"Solo" Final 14er Mission
Longs Peak (14,255')
Front Range

Sunday, July 9th 2017
Final Centennial Mission w/Ricky Carr
Dallas Peak (13,809')
San Juan Mountains

Trail Head(s): respectively
Longs Peak TH
Mill Creek TH

Route(s): respectively
Keyhole route -- day trip
S face -> E Face -> N face -> Summit!
Or, more simply stated, the "standard" route. Completed with a one night/two day backpack trip.

Difficulty: respectively
Longs was probably considered by RMNP Rangers as still to be in the "technical" phase of the summer season; although snow was limited to Trough and could be bypassed on its left by staying on rock. The Homestretch had mostly unavoidable snow. I brought an ice axe & crampons -- axe was used during ascent on snow sections and crampons worn on descent of Homestretch.

Climbers descending the Homestretch on Longs

Dallas Peak still had snow on the S face in the gully leading through the initial cliff band �‘ however on the descent we avoided the snow. On the N face, snow was encountered at the base of the crux pitch to the summit, and snow was below the chockstone on the rappel. Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of the snow below the crux pitch to the summit, as I was focused on getting the job done! The snow leading to crux pitch made it interesting because wet rubber on my summer hiking boots didn't instill confidence on the rock.

Introduction

Ahh....the Centennials. Little did I know back in the fall of 2001 when I hiked Pikes Peak (up Barr Trail) that I would go on to hike, or sometimes climb, all of the 14ers and the remaining peaks that make up the 100 highest in Colorado.

Pikes Peak was my first 14er, and it had become a goal to hike to the top sometime in the first few years of living in Colorado Springs since I looked up at it every day! All I knew was, "someday, someday" I will hike to the top. When that day finally happened, I was very proud of myself for sticking with my goal. Little did I know about other 14ers.
It wouldn't be until spending time at Barr Camp over the winter of '01/'02 that I learned hiking 14ers was a thing. Jeff Allen, the caretaker of Barr Camp at the time, filled me in on the peaks and also suggested I join the Pikes Peak Group of the CMC (Colorado Mountain Club) so I could take some courses and meet partners. The Basic Mountaineering School (aka, BMS) is comprised of classes focused on the fundamentals of mountaineering, primarily Colorado mountaineering. In BMS, I learned how to read a map while using a compass; I was introduced to rock climbing and rappelling, which led to learning to ice climb; and, the one aspect I was most interested in -- I learned how to use an ice axe and how to self-arrest.

A week after taking the snow climbing class portion of BMS, I did what I consider my first couloir climb up the Y couloir on Pikes Peak. (Note: In BMS, we climb the couloirs above Glen Cove on Pikes Peak for training.)

Through BMS, I did meet other hikers interested in the 14ers, and we would team up for several trips over the years. Eventually, I also did a BMS "grad climb" with fellow students where we picked the peak and route, planned it out, and then executed the trip with the guidance & support of an instructor or two. We chose the N ridge route on Kit Carson.

Scrambling the N ridge of Kit Carson, with fresh hail from night before to spice it up -- late Sept '04

Those early years of learning the skills that I think are important for building confidence to try harder peaks, were, in my opinion, essential to my success of completing the Top 100 in Colorado. In my case anyway, I think it was a necessary step in my growth as a Colorado mountaineer.

Brian England, Dave Dietz, & Darin on summit of Sneffels -- Sept '03

Bill Tarvin, Carson Black, & Darin on summit of Maroon Pk after traverse from N Maroon -- July '05

Darin on summit of Vestal after climbing Wham Ridge w/Bill Tarvin -- Aug '05

Lisa Heckel & Darin on Castle Pk, Lisa's last 14er -- Aug '07

Approach to Hopeful Couloir on Mt Hope -- May '08

Dani & Mike Silvestro on K2 after we climbed Capitol -- Aug '09

Carson Black & Darin on last day of a successful Chicago Basin trip -- May '10

Darin spreading ashes of brother Dale on summit of Turret Peak -- Dec '11

Steve Gladbach on summit of Pigeon Pk -- Dec '11

Granted, in the bigger picture of mountaineering, accomplishing the Top 100 in Colorado may not seem like much of a big deal, and it's probably only important to those that finish the list. But it was my list. And I did it the way I wanted, or at least in the way it unfolded. The route to the finish line had its bumps, setbacks, and emotional toil, but the route to get here was life altering and was every bit worth it to complete. So many moments along the way are etched into my memory, and it's those moments that make the list special.

Rio Grande Pyramid where I spread some of Steve Gladbach's ashes earlier that day -- July '14

Ricky Carr in notch of Jagged Mtn before wrapping around S side to summit -- July '16

Throughout the years of chasing the list of centennials, there were times it was the focal point of my weekend adventures; in particular in the early couple of years of hiking 14ers. Like many that get the "14er bug" I was trying to do a 14er or more every weekend! Then I started hiking 13ers (W Spanish Pk was my first) and enjoyed the experience of fewer people with additional mystery to the route as they are not always straight forward like most 14ers tend to be, or at least the easier peaks.

I'm not sure what my first centennial 13er was, but it's likely it could have been either Crystal Peak or N Apostle & Ice Mountain, sometime in 2003. But I knew I would do the centennials as well as the 14ers, and at some point I thought I would finish with Longs to top it all off. Over the years, I plugged away at remaining peaks, some years only getting one or two new ones.

In the years that my list wasn't a focus, I was generally hiking other 13ers on someone else's list, which was fine with me!

Entering 2017, I had three peaks remaining on my list. I wanted to get Phoenix Peak completed before Longs and Dallas. Terri, a partner and friend on many alpine adventures, joined me for an overnight trip to get Phoenix. I had talked with Mike (Dad Mike) about going with him the week before, but I know my limitations and I know how fast and strong he is! I told him it would turn into a solo trip for both of us if I joined him because I would not be able to keep up! Besides, I got first hand info from him on conditions after he did it! We went the following weekend to poach. ;)

Terri Horvath on summit of Phoenix Pk -- March '17

I was too tired to sit up. See Mike, even with an overnight it kicked my ass!

Darin is spent on the summit of Phoenix Pk -- March '17

All of the aforementioned & photographed moments have friends that have played an important part to my growth and experiences, not to mention a lot of good times together on the list of 100! Without them, along with many others not shown above, my story would have been quite different, but I'm glad they've been a part of mine.

The Last 14er

Long Peak's iconic face, seen from Lady Washington -- June '17

I did my first 14er by myself. I didn't tell anyone what or where I was going, other than Jeff at Barr Camp as I passed through.
My last 14er wasn't much different. I didn't tell anyone, just as I wanted it.
(Irresponsible? Maybe but you'll get over it.)

Pictures to tell the story�.

Top of the 'Trough' and about to turn the corner to the 'Narrows'

From the summit...

A climber topping out on the Homestretch

The summit felt anti-climactic of a finish but it still felt nice to have the last 14er checked off. If I ever get my head right and my body back in good climbing shape, I would like to do Kieners and other routes on Longs. I've got work to do before that can happen!

No. 100

Ricky and I met in Montrose on Friday night at a hotel where we spent the night before driving to Telluride on Saturday morning to start our trip.
We hit the trail sometime by 9am with heavy overnight packs w/climbing gear.

I brought two 30m 8.5mm(ish) twin ropes, four pieces of pro (#13 nut, cams #'s 1, .4, & .75), 4 shoulder length slings w/biners, one 3' rabbit ears sling, & ~20' piece of webbing & leaver biner for rap anchor if needed (and it wasn't needed because existing webbing looked good).

Due to the snow at base of crux pitch, the belay was out on a �diving board' type of protruding rock and thus when I topped the pitch, I was short on rope so Ricky had to tear down belay anchor and move to base of crux pitch (in snow) to allow more rope for me to get to suitable anchor to bring him up. If I were to climb Dallas again, I would consider bringing a 60m skinny rope.

Pictures to tell the story�

The views from the Highline Trail aren't too shabby

Camp BD @ creek crossing on S side of trail

Climb Day

We left camp sometime by 4am or so. Knowing our pace, I wanted to get on the crux sections as early as possible so we wouldn't have to rush in the event of bad weather. The forecast was reasonable but we didn't want to push it.

Approaching snow gully that leads to first cliff band on S face (5am)

Starting to turn the corner for the E side of the mountain (6:50am, yeah we�re that kind of slow)

I didn't think the route finding was very challenging due to obvious climber's trail and cairns. What snow was left on the S face didn't obscure the trail much so it was easy to stay on track. Skies were favorable for a low stress ascent in regards to weather.

Summit block on the right, but we still have some traversing to do

Interesting rock formations with Sneffels beyond

4th class section, started just above the snow

Top of the 4th class wall, w/trekking poles at the anchor for a rap (which we used on our descent)

Chimney just before getting on N side of mountain (I found the moves awkward and we used the rope through here)

Now on the N side of the mountain -- looking at Sneffels and one of the Blue Lakes below

The short ledge traverse to bottom of crux pitch (out of sight but it�s above the grass shelf center of photo, with the red

Ricky coming across the ledge system to base of crux, and the last picture I took before the summit

From the summit�

The rappel station at first was confusing for me as I couldn't find the master point/rap rings right away. They're tucked back in the gap between the big boulder and the underlying rock. As usual for me, getting on the rap was awkward at first until I discovered the nice foot shelf below master point. Maybe I'm alone in this problem??
Anyway, we were able to rap through the chockstone but the rope came up short on the snow field below chockstone, so down climbing some snow was in order. But it was soft at that point so it went ok. We were rapping off the summit by 10am.

Ricky out in front on the E side during our descent

We were back to camp by 12:30/1pm.
We ate a lunch, and slowly packed up for our hike out.
THE END. ;)

Thanks for reading,

Darin

NOTE: At the time of this writing, there are 425 trip reports on Longs, 305 of those are in the months of July thru September. So you're welcome, here's one more! And I sprayed this report with more photos of me than I've ever done in all of my reports combined. You're welcome.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

MtnHub	Congratulations, Darin! 1/16/2018 10:10am Nice report and summary of your journey into climbing. Although I regret I've never had the opportunity to climb with you (yet), I've enjoyed getting to know you online. As far as having 425 TRs on Longs, I don't mind at all. (6 of them are mine!) While I love to read reports of peaks I haven't climbed or am even aware of, I still love to read reports of familiar mountains by different people. Each one is unique and offers a completely different perspective of it, so thanks for the latest one! Climb on, Darin!!
Stratosfearsome	Really great reflection 1/16/2018 5:11pm Darin, I have gotten so much out of your trip reports over the years and I look forward to many more! Congratulations on the highest hundred, too.
Tornadoman	Great report! 1/17/2018 10:08pm Congrats on the Centennial list! Do you have any other mountain goals in mind now?
piper14er	a touch of musing 1/18/2018 2:30pm but had to look through this report a couple times to digest the dates and all, congratulations on all your accomplishments over the years
Rainier_Wolfcastle	Congrats and Thanks for the TR! 1/18/2018 3:08pm I barely know you, but just from this site I know Colorado is a better place with D Baker is around.
CarpeDM	Congrats! 1/18/2018 4:11pm There's a "snowhand" in pic 25 giving you a thumbs up (just left of center); maybe some friends are smiling on your accomplishment. I echo stratosfearsome: I've gotten a lot out of your reports in the past, and I've been glad to finally know you and get out with you this past year. (And Longs is obviously the best one to finish on.)
d_baker	Thanks for the comments 1/18/2018 6:03pm The writing of this report is ~6 months beyond being current events, but something struck me out of the blue the other day to put it together. It was kind of fun to go back and think over the ride that got me to this point. I imagine most people can relate to that in their own journeys. @ Tornado: I don't have another list I'm after, other than trying to reach 200 ranked 13ers. I have 18 to go. There was a time I thought I would do the bi-cents, but that thought has passed and I no longer think I will. Maybe do all the 13ers in Roach's 13er guidebook though (13,800 and up), which leaves me with 4 to summit. I think Frohlich was doing his list that way? @ Carpe (Dave): I see the thumbs up! Ha! Thanks for point that out. It's been good to climb & hike with you as well, hopefully more days out will happen this year! Thanks again for reading.
sunny1	Thumbs up! 1/18/2018 6:47pm Congrats on finishing both the 14er and Centennials in one summer! Enjoyed reading your TR. You have some superb photos here. I've always respected your style, Darin. You are all about the journey. Strong work! Carry on. Cheers
Jay521	Very, very nice 1/19/2018 12:22pm Congrats on doing your list and writing it up so well. I have enjoyed following you through your reports as they have given me the chance to see routes and peaks I will likely never be able to do. Thanks!
Mtnman200	Congrats! 1/20/2018 10:16am Congrats on finishing the 14ers and centennials in strong fashion. It's kind of funny that your final 14er was my first one. Not a lot of climbers finish on Longs. Oh, sorry about starting a thread about your completions without checking with you first. I just assumed you'd be okay with it. Consider it to be just another time that I trolled you (except this time I didn't mean to.)
Dad Mike	Congrats bro 1/23/2018 12:17pm You are an inspiration to me and a lot of people on this site. Thanks for taking the time to share your stories with us. I always love ready your reports and look forward to our next adventure together.
Jon Frohlich	List 1/23/2018 3:12pm Darin, congrats on finishing! Nice to see the TR and read the story. Yeah, my list is/was what Roach has in the book above 13,800. It comes out to 118 I think (I'm counting 59 14ers as well). I think it ends up adding Frasco BM, Iowa, Traver, Spalding, Drift, and Gemini that are unranked and Niagara, American, Trinity, Arrow, Organ, and Castleabra that are ranked. I don't know why I picked that. I just liked the idea of doing everything in the book for some reason and rounding off to 13,800. So I'm at 108/118 I believe.
d_baker	Rounding 1/23/2018 8:46pm Jon, is that like Lake Rounding? I've heard that's a thing too. ;) Thanks again, to everyone for your comments (& likes). MtnMan....how many times have you trolled me and I didn't even know it?! Damn trolls.

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