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Point 9,854
~3.3 Miles, ~1,300 Gain (includes Point 9,890)
5.6 A2 PG-13
I've been wanting to climb Point 9,854 for a while. I was disappointed the peak was first summited via drone since I wanted the climbing beta. Using a drone eliminates the need for climbing beta but now that I've acquired almost 100 first ascents, I felt I had the experience to tackle this beast and its unknown climbing/choss potential.
John and Alyson also wanted the peak so I had a team of climbers/gear haulers. We finally found a weekend day that I could make it down to Pagosa to lead the tower.
I met up with Teresa, John and Alyson Saturday night in Pagosa Springs. Although only 20 some miles from Pagosa, the drive took almost an hour to our camping spot near the trailhead. Not knowing what to expect, we sorted and packed a large iron aid rack, 9 inch nails, along with clean aid gear and a drill. Good thing we had four people to help haul gear to the base.
Pile-o-iron (Photo by Teresa Gergen)
We woke up early and made the short drive and hike to the summit tower. I sorted my rack with items from the gear arsenal I felt required to safely ascend the tower. I began up the tower on some extremely chossy tuff. Almost every foothold and handhold exploded. Cobbles were especially not to be trusted. I was glad to have my specters to protect these opening moves. Ummm.... love me some MUD. After my enjoyable flashback from the Mystery Towers, I was able to sling a block and continue to the neck of the tower.
Opening choss (Photo by Teresa Gergen)
That shit is scary! (Photo by Teresa Gergen)
A look from below (Photo by Teresa Gergen)
Opening specter.
Actually, a pretty good Lost Arrow.
The look of excitement. Oh those exploding cobbles. (Photo by Teresa Gergen)
At the neck. (Photo by Alyson Kirk)
I found a decent cemented boulder where I decided to put in my first aid bolt along with my first acceptably safe protection. Continuing upward from this point without one, if I were to fall, would almost certainly guarantee hospitalization or death. As soon as I hammered the bolt, before tightening the bolt, I clipped into the bolt where almost simultaneously a cobble exploded and I slipped. Whew. It was a damn good thing that bolt was placed.
Right before the foot blew. (Photo by Alyson Kirk)
Top stepping off the first bolt, I hammered the surrounding rock and flakes and cobbles rained downward. Yup. Bolt time. After the second bolt, the rock quality improved. I was able to place a Z-pin in a questionable Jenga-like series of bulges. Without the Z-pin, I'm not sure what would have worked. I used a large stockpile of iron tactics and the Z-pin worked the best. The Z-pin, flared cams, peckers and pins â‘ all backed up with screamers â‘ guided me to a small ledge where I could stand. In the back of my mind, I felt this ledge could calve away at any time.
Starting the A2 section. (Photo by Alyson Kirk)
A2 section. (Photo by Alyson Kirk)
And the MVP goes to the Z-pin.
I hope that rock holds that cam.....
It's pecker time
I decided to place a final bolt to protect the final 15-20 feet of free climbing in case there was no protection. At least if I fell due to deteriorating rock on the free climbing portion, I would have something to at least slow me down. A large fall without one would result in a well orchestrated symphony of iron blowing and cam popping.
Enjoyable face climbing, to my surprise, led to the summit. The summit was well earned and the views were excellent with the changing fall colors. Instead of leaving 30+ feet of webbing wrapped around the summit, I added a two bolt anchor and prepared the fixed lines.
Free climbing. (Photo by Alyson Kirk)
Summit! (Photo by Alyson Kirk)
Summit view
Summit shadow
My well acquired team of cheerleaders (I mean this in the best way possible) shortly followed via jug.
Congratulations to Teresa for her completion of Hinsdale County! Also, John and Alyson's completion of the Hinsdale a week later.
Simul Jug (Photo by Alyson Kirk)
Teresa jugging to a Hinsdale finish.
John jugging
Another summit view.
For those interested in a second ascent. Route info and beta:
I Don't Need A Stinkin' Drone. 5.6 A2 PG-13
This is currently the only way to ascend the summit tower without a drone. I bet someone with some real cojones could also free climb this route (5.11-12 R). Start on the east side of the tower and free climb on extremely chossy volcanic tuff towards the neck of the tower (5.4 PG-13). Specters and slings protect this section (poorly). Once at the neck, aid your way to a small ledge (A2). From the ledge, free climb on better rock (still questionable) and a bit run-out to the summit (5.6 PG-13). Rappel south from a bolted anchor.
Rack
3 Rivet hangers or nuts. Select rack of peckers, spectres, lost arrows and z-pins (my MVP). Also a select single set of cams up to BD C4 #5 with tri-cams. Screamers also highly advised.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
I couldn't help but laugh when I got to the end and you suggested, "I bet someone with some real cojones could also free climb this route." Ha, give yourself some credit. But a handful of climbers could do what you did?
Interesting project, to say the least, and congrats to all.
Congrats on completing a tough route without a drone. That looks like some scary stuff to place gear in and I'm sure there were some gut turning moments. It looks like the summit views were worth it though... :wink:
The amount of skill it takes to access a route and rock quality to aid that is impressive. Trying to protect mud! I bet you didn't bounce test any of your gear.
Hats off ( keep helmet on) to your belayer as well.
Due to a recent text I received, I want to make it clear that I'm not trying to diminish, slander or discredit Goldstein's ascent. With that in mind, here are some additional thoughts on the subject. Did he CLIMB the peak? IMHO, no. Did he SUMMIT the peak? Yes. For peakbaggers, myself included, checking it off the list just requires summiting but not necessarily climbing a peak. Depending on the list and personal desires, ethics MIGHT matter (3,000 gain for the CO 14ers for example).
With that in mind, I've used similar tactics to climb a tower. Instead of a drone I used a bow & arrow. Was the tower climbed? No. Was it summited? Yes. For this particular tower, I was planning on climbing it but the rock was way too chossy for a safe ascent. Due to the location of the tower, I didn't want to install/leave a pin ladder due to its public accessibility so I resulted in other shenanigans. I have a trip report on LOJ.
Great report, what a crazy pile of mud that peak is! Nice work on actually climbing that thing, probably not a lot of people itching to repeat your lead. Great support team too, and congrats to the Hinsdale finishers!
It's scary enough climbing on solid rock, much less stuff that comes apart! Great job accomplishing this project. Congrats to all of your team. Well done. Glad it went safely with no accidents!
And if you ever do need that drone footage....let me know!
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