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This route is pretty straight forward but maybe there is some information that will help others doing this in late June.
This is a very short and very accessible route. At this time of year, you have to be off this route by 1p at the latest.
There was absolutely no one else on the couloir, given that there were probably 20 people on the summit and a line of people coming up the standard route, I thought it was a good alternative.
I had crampons and an axe, my partner had spikes and an axe. I would advise crampons, the ascent is fine but they were pretty helpful on the descent. The axe should be mandatory as well.
We arrived at the base of the couloir around 6am, the hike in from the car doesn't take more than an hour and a half. I was worried about snow conditions but they were great on the way up. Below is a good look at most of the route. View of most of the route
We crossed the lake and followed the climbers trail to the bottom of the couloir and put on our crampons. Below is a look up at the crux. Beginning snow travel, looking up at the crux
Start at the base of the snow and follow straight up. The crux as described in the route description is a 100 ft steep section right after the beginning of the snow climb. It gets pretty steep but it is manageable and very comfortable with the snow. Pictured below, this section is pretty exciting, after that it is a moderate slope all the way up. This is looking down at my partner coming up the crux. Another climber ascending the crux
After the crux we followed the couloir up to just under the crest of the final summit ridge. Here you can make a decision. There is a rock buttress that split the snow field. The described route goes left, which would have required travelling over talus. We went right which went up another steep 50 ft. climb which was similar in angle to the 'crux' section. We did not descend this way.
We left the summit around 11:45pm, getting back near the couloir around noon. I immediately saw evidence of fresh slides in the middle of the coul. Followed by active slides, at least one every five minutes. We still descended, staying near the sides and descending one at a time to spot the other. The slides are not deep but troubling none the less. These slides occurred much more often at the top of the coul. Towards the middle and bottom, the angle was much more moderate and the snow more stable. Around 13,700
Descending the coul, I downclimbed facing the mountain, using the crampons to kick good holes for my partner with spikes. He still took his time and felt unstable without crampons here and I agree, it would be much more nerve racking. It took 4 hrs going up and 3 back but my partner was in spikes and new to snow travel so we went pretty slow. Coming down the crux
Overall,
The snow is deep enough but conditions deteriorate quickly in late June, start early.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Not a lot of reports on this route and one I've entertained and will likely consider again. Nice work!
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