February 18th, 2017
~11.4 Miles, ~5,200 Gain
TH: Longs Peak TH
Max difficulty: 5.4 M2
Route: Right Dovetail Couloir

Longs (Photo by Jomah)

The weather threw a wrench into our (Jomah and I) original plans. With an acceptable forecast for Longs, plan B was initiated thanks to a badgering invite by Ryan. After all, I don't have the winter snowflake for Longs.

Packed and ready, our team of four started up the well-trodden Longs Peak Trail around 4:40 AM. Progress was quick as we climbed out of treeline to witness an amazing sunrise on the east slopes of Mount Lady Washington. Our objective was an untraveled couloir between the Keyhole and The Cables Route.

Sunrise

Sunrise (Photo by Jomah)

We bounded across the boulders to the start of The Dove snowfield. At first we were a little apprehensive of slide potential but the snow proved to be stabilized and surprisingly good for climbing. Dominic led the way to the right side of the snowfield which included some mixed rock/snow traversing. Enjoyable, steep snow climbing led to the first crux - a snow covered chimney (easy fifth/M2). Dominic soloed to the top.

Boulder Field toward The Dove

Nice weather over Longs

At the base of The Dove snowfield (Photo by Jomah)

Starting up The Dove

The Dove

Starting up the couloir (Photo by Jomah)

Staring up the couloir (Photo by Jomah)

Starting to narrow.

Starting to narrow.

Little mixed to spice things up.

In the couloir

In the couloir

Chimney

Jomah topping out the Chimney

Ryan topping out the chimney

Top of the first pitch (Photo by Jomah)

Although we probably could have soloed the chimney, Dominic set a quick belay line which allowed for quick travel for the rest of us through the chimney. After the chimney, more moderate snow guided us up a series of flakes and terraces and the crux of the climb.

Upper snowfield

Second set of snow (photo by Ryan)

Flakes and terraces

Flakes and ledges (photo by Ryan)

Start of the second pitch (Photo by Jomah)

The second pitch (Photo by Jomah)

Starting the second pitch

Starting the second pitch

Second pitch (photo by Ryan)

Second pitch (photo by Ryan)

The crux consisted of a few moves of slab covered snow. In the summer this would be a non-event but crampons and snow made things interesting. A belay and rope was welcomed. Since there was only one path through this short crux section, we split into two separate belay parties. Once we were through the crux, we swapped leads as there was more varied terrain for both parties to climb simultaneously.

Crux of the second pitch

Second pitch.

Second pitch (photo by Ryan)

I chose to traverse hard right on some exposed slabs and then ascended through some benches to intersect the Keyhole Ridge while Jomah climbed straight up to the ridge.

Lovely runout slab on pitch 3.

Third pitch (photo by Ryan)

Third pitch (photo by Ryan)

Topping out on pitch 3

Once on the Keyhole Ridge, more exposed, snow covered scrambling guided us to easier terrain on Longs' north-northeast ridge. We arrived on the summit around 11:20 AM in solitude. Not having a wind on the summit was an enjoyable treat especially in February.

Chiefs Head (Photo by Jomah)

Scrambling on the Keyhole Ridge

Interesting scrambling on the Keyhole Ridge

Airy traversing

Keyhole Ridge

Airy traversing

Airy traversing

Final scramble on the Keyhole Ridge (Photo by Jomah)

Final scramble (Photo by Jomah)

Summit ridge (Photo by Jomah)

Final scramble

Summit Ridge

Since The Cables route appeared relatively snow free and stable, we descended to The Cables Route and did one long simul-rappel with our double ropes. We trotted back down to the Boulder Field and enjoyed the well-packed snow all the way back to the trailhead arriving at 2:20 PM. Fantastic weather, partners and route. Who could ask for more?

Rappeling the north face (Photo by Jomah)

Route Topo